All my SW rods have titanium guides and still I need to rinse them in fresh water or they will show some sign of corrosion. Alot of customer rods I have seen come back show it really bad as they dont wash them at all.
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St Croix 3C66MF, I built one just for this purpose for someone, it was a SCV. The thing weighted nothing. If he is going to be throwing it under over hangs and things like that Id go with the 6ft version of this rod its alot easier to skip the senko wth the shorter rod.
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Here they are using custom GLX 844s and MH SCV for fluke rods. They are breaking them ALOT they dont seem to care this is what the pool winners are using so this is what everyone wants. You break it I will redo it once for a small fee so as long as it does not come back looking like it got ran over by a truck. I also explain to them before hand how delicate a GLX is and expect it to break
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I have the exact same problem LOL. Volume 10 #2
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On Decorative Wraps (subliminal) LOL. Thanks Billy, That helps alot. Im finding it hard to swallow the prices of just trying to test out all kinds of new finishes.
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Billy what finish do you use? And why?
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The blank was a dark gray color. Yes it was a factory rod. Owned for about 8 years.
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Hmm If I bought a Prada belt with a logo then slapped the logo onto a oridinary hand bag. I dunno one could say its an attempt to commit fraud.
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One of my more favorite spinning rods bit it this weekend... (partner tried to do a good thing keeping boats from banging at the dock, tripped and took it out)... Which was the capper on a very bad tournament weekend. Any way... I've used the rod so much that the model number had worn off... It "originally" came with one of the cork handles with slide rings (Tennesee Handle?)...
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Its been said by a few that went to ICAST those carrot sticks are heavy, in my opinion no award is going to save those rods now, even if they infused some saffron into the blank. Haw! As for the best of show award. Look at some of the nutty items that have won in the past and you will lose some confidence in who is voting on the winners and the items that win.
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Ummm wasnt it kevlar that casued grooving thats why they stopped using it it in alot of lines?
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the above was a hint if you were using it in dryer mode since you said you "heard it" so it sounded like it was spinning when not in the room....
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I think I see whats happening to you... Try not lowering the upper wheels onto the rod they put tension on the rod and make the rod wiggy at the chuck which cause it to come loose and fall on the floor. So in simpler terms just let the rod rest on the lower wheels and dont lock it down... Hope some of that made sense. I think this is happening on this rod because your blank is crooked or bowe
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I use your blanks. For some reason when someone says something like "pacbay guides" I believe they are yours or are the same product. I seem to believe they all come fromt he same factory.
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Keep in mind the motors we use on our rod lathes are varible speed type ac/dc motors. You cant just use any type of motor most are made to run at one speed. Also your foot pedal can only handle around 1 AMP of power. The following motors in the link are all the type that could be used and at the bottom of the page their is a 6 amp pedal that could be used on the bigger motors. One other thing mak
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Try the canon ELPH SD1000 onsale right now at circuit city online for 217.99.
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fedex ground... lowest price when you need to insure.
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I have this the mixer, the bearing might not be heavy enough to mush the epoxy real good.
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Terry Morrell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Troy, > I know what I'm about to tell you is going to be > disagreed upon Err. What you recommended is common practice, its impossible to get a absolute perfect finish without sanding.
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I use the lite on anything that is going to have alot of air coming out of it for a length of time. For instance my butt wraps leach air for a while after the finish has been aplied. I found using the high build first will have a good chance of a few bubble forming after I have heated my surface to kill bubbles and walked away to let it dry only to come back hours later to find bubbles that we
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I once called them a while back before they redid their website and blank catalog. I was wondering the weight of a particular blank they weighted it for me and let me know in the near future they would have all the blank weight listed. Even more amazing is that all came true. Im a fan for life too.
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LOL I keep seeing this over and over in posts about ordering directly from Matagi. Matagi does not ship directly to the USA customers anymore. Look at their website it says to contact merrick tackle for US orders. E-mail them and they will tell you the same.
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Anthony, Matagi does not ship to the USA anymore. Matagi only ships to one source in US and it is very very slow. To get matagi components here from what I have seen and heard it may take months to get parts.
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Seems they are available, have no clue how they are here already but they are...
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I e-mailed matagi. I was told all items are ushaully in stock and as soon as merrick tackle (the sole US distirbuter) places an order matagi ships it. They also say they have no idea why it takes so long.
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The matagi parts are pretty much dead in the US now whos gona wait 4-8 weeks for their parts. It used to take a week tops when i was able to order directly from matagi in the past. I waited 3 months the last time I ordered in the US and got stuck with 3 rods cause my customers walked away it was just to long of a wait. :/
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If they made the ring locks in titanium they might give fuji a run for their money.
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Sears sells two drills that fit... the 1/4 inch model is not varible speed i believe.. *sorry edit* the links i posted to the drills wont work.. go to sears and search drills, then sort by price lowest to highest. The brand name is champion they carry these in there local stores. You can bring the piece that mounts the drill to the store with you to make absolutely sure they fit, thats wha
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Steve, I ment heat like from a flame. I used open flame to remove all kinds of epoxies.
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have you tried plain old heat yet just like a normal expoxy to undo the glue? Perhaps it to will turn brittle and weak if heated enough.
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