If you use a backrest that is 90 degrees to the cutting wheel the it will not be square due to the taper of the blank not being taken into consideration.
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Wrap away. I use Maderia for trim all the time with NCP and regular nylon. I just apply two coats of Chromaseal before the finish.
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We drag the dredge off a cleat with a deep diver. I would be interested also about a rod for it
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If for some reason I do get an edge that is not straight I turn the rod at about 50 rpm and take a coffee filter with a little DNA on it and work it towards the edge on the bare blank. Squares it up perfect.
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Gerald (Jerry) Bouyear Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Anyway Rod building opens a whole new fascist if > you love fishing and yes, you can build a better > rod then most that you could purchase off the > rack in you local tackle store. > Gerald, You may want to edit the first line of this ....
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Metallic don't need CP
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Alex. shoot me an email. I think I have a load of what you are looking for .
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Follow the guy in the pink hat and crocs from NY and you will find the party......
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They were selling duck calls a few years ago. Reels fit in better than that. LOL
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I see that a lot in NJ. A few local well known builders do it so it must have to be done. Mostly on heavy off shore stuff. I built some and was asked why didn't I finish the whole blank. On these rods weight is not an issue. As BIlly noted its a regional thing. One guy does it and all follow . If i took offense to things billy said online i would have driven over there and kicked his ass several
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Don't worry about the spine. Its not an issue. I assume the nick is to the butt end of the seat as the blank is closer t this part of the seat. I personally would not worry about it. the seat you say is a tight fit and will act as an outer sleeve to strengthen the area. I seriously doubt the blank will be flexing that much on the butt side of the reel seat.
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Easy to make with a dowl and an assortment of plumbing washers use a brass screw
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I'm gonna guess its bamboo
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Just make sure to dust it off good before applying finish.
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While I agree that Andy was a great innovator and introduced a lot of us to the wood lathe for rod building there are plenty more that push the envelope even further. Just look at Billy Vivona's work and mark Blaubaum to name a couple.
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It will most likely remove any warranty also..
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I prefer Raison Bran
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I apply epoxy using a spatula in most cases.....
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I prefer to ream it to fit. Especially if the grip has trim rings or inlays, solid color will stretch ok and slide into place with the gel epoxies on the market. Only down side to reaming is if its not cleaned out good you will scratch the blank.
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I really think it matters what part of the country you are from. Where I am you give and inch they try to take a mile. Dennis I like your idea.
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mike quinn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I must disagree with the above. I feel you have > gained a loyal customer who now knows you can be > trusted to do right by him. He can't be the only > fisherman he knows, plus being human he is gonna > brag about the repair he made himself to others > thanks to you. You passed on ten dollars t
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I repair cars for a living and I certainly could tell people how to do it them selves (I'd like to see them try) but I get paid for my experience and diag skills . If its how you make your money take it. Period.
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They are also easier on your feet when the rods drops on them
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Wrap the box out up and down both sides then the box in up down both sides. Good question.
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Sounds like a you were on a head boat. Most likely bottom fishing . So lets assume a Bank style sinker was used and when the boat is making a move to another drop the sinker was left attached to the line. During the move the boat may have been unsteady casing the sinker to strike the blank. Now a 20 lb shark on the line and reeled up to the leader that is not that long. Mate WILL not grab braid l
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I get the same problem, what I do is after a pass up and down maybe twice if the twist is too much I will cut the thread and reload my hand. I also found that by pulling the thread from the box of spools then then sliding your hand closer to the spools and further away from the blank helps too. In other words when wrapping the thread in not sliding through your fingers but held tight and as the t
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why not just us several thin coats of an auto > clear > I have never seen a car go yellow Just polish it > once in a while I've seen them fade though. Look at a metallic red lincoln from the early 2000s
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you can't go wrong with either Premagloss or the Rod Dancer equivalent . Only thing is they are not as deep a shine as a two part type auto clear. They are more like an eggshell finish. If you are looking for a thin finish the two part auto is not the way to go. The depth comes at a price. The others can and should be applied as this a possible and in several coats to get the desired appearance.
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Epoxy guide coating is not bothered much by UV?? Hmmmm.... I beg to differ. Look at a rod that has been wished for a few years or better yet replace a guide and then compare the looks of the finish from the old to new. BIG difference. Different woods will require different finish. I'm not well educated in the world of wood finish so I will not make a suggestion. I have used CA (Crazy Glue) as a
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