Those wraps not hard. Just keep good track of the plus one on the pass you are on to make sure all passes get the same treatment
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Also consider braid vs mono. Braid is thinner and on certain rollers get caught between the frame and roller.
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I use a spatula . Ralph O'Quinn showed my how in Highpoint years ago and I never looked back. Way easier than a brush, cleans well and makes it easy to get the finish in the tunnels.
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I use the round magnifying light also. I replaced the bulb with an LED and the light is more crisp
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A fellow rod builder had a fire caused by ad alcohol burner. He lost some treasured items that he cannot replace . Invisible flames are not good
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Unless the rod is a spinning or spiral wrapped the blank is taking the load. Not the thread.
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If you do use epoxy it’s not necessary to use D or C thread. If the wraps are packed tight and burnished before the over wrap no coating should be needed.
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It also comes off the reamer pretty easy the first couple uses. Then it gets stuck in the grip and can possibly scratch the blank on the way down.
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Ken most builders I know fantasize about going into business.,what could be better ?? You are doing something you love. Problem is it at one point becomes a job And the enjoyment you get from building becomes the stress you were relieving with your rod building hobby.
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One thing I see many do is lower their price as their efficiency increases. Not a good business model. For instance what used to take and hour and you charged $12 for May now only take you 30 minutes. I have seen plenty of people pass that to the customer in savings. Not a way to do business, you will never make a good profit. Your efficiency needs to benefit you. Keep the prices steady as y
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The finish is to protect the thread from damage and abrasion. Strength is built by the multitude of wraps around the foot. Should be plenty strong .
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The one Roger uses is identical to the Jet. One thing you need in a lathe is weight . The HF lathes are light and vibrate . Without the weight the project suffers greatly.
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On decorative wraps I lower my magnifying lamp over the area. Flows out nicely
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The PG is the best to coat a blank. Epoxy is for thread wraps. Unless you live in Florida. (They like to coat entire rods in epoxy). The PG will remain clear as the epoxy will yellow and if the blank is anything other than black will have a non favorable look in a year or two
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ron > > In a word - it words - no failures of any kind > over many many rods built. > > What does this mean ? In a word it words? I’m really confused now.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Robert, , I make the arbor by > wrapping rows of epoxy on the blank for the > correct outside diameter. How do you wrap rows of epoxy around the blank ???? Do you let it set up like taffy then apply? My inquiring mind needs to know.
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1 x 30" sanding belts are available from many many different suppliers in grips of all sizes. Did you mean grit ? That’s makes more sense.
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OUCH!!
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I never really cared about balancing a rod at the reel location. The only time I may be effective is when you are soaking bait . If casting and retrieving a lure or jigging the weight and drag of the lure combined with the lever action of the rod will surely make it tip heavy let alone when a fish is hooked up . Unless you want it to hang nice on the wall to me it’s a moot point. Build to be l
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There is a well respected custom builder around the Here that has wrapped an entire blank in thread on more than one occasion He does it to change the blank color on kids or women’s rods and ones he donates for charity . First time I saw one from a distance I was drawn to look.closer as it looked awesome from 25 ft . Then I realized why the hot pink popped . Sometimes you have to do what you
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Batson makes some nice roller guides Have used quite a few of theme with no issues
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Mudhole has them listed online
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I use my packing tool and slowly turn the blank and apply pressure to the end.
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Most epoxy issues are caused by doing too much. Put it on and let it do it’s job. It will level knits own. Key is not to use too much.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Phil, > I think that you meant to say - "except for the > thread used to wrap the guides ----" No I think he meant what he said .
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Then a complete strip will not be too hard. Cut off the wraps carefully,the left over finish will most likely be able to be removed by scraping with a plastic knife or plastic razor blades. Some use Citri Strip to soften the finish. Then either paint or coat with the above mentioned Permagloss or Limiseal Allow to dry for week to make sure the threads don’t dig in when wrapping.
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Stay away from the ones in the Amazon link. They have rubber wipers that tend to break down when you least expect it and leave debris in your finish.
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I never underwrap a closed wrap. Has no benefits and will make it harder to pack and align. If doing an open wrap it can be used as a contrast and will hold the threads tighter. It will however trap air that will come out when finish is applied.
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I have seen designs cut out but they were laser cut , Problem was when working with them they broke apart. When the abalone is small it make it harder to work with .
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There are several reasons I won’t store rods in my boat and that is one . The moisture also aids in corrosion of guide frames and reels. Ants in stored boats is pretty common on NJ. I put ant traps in when covering for the winter but also had them access the boat on the water by way of the dock lines.
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