Roger, I think the biggest issue would be the sheer number of new guide sizes listed within a product line. If FUJI relabeled all of their size 6 fly guides in different materials with the ID diameter of the ring you would go from one size to about 5 or 6....No way they want to get into this. The measurement of the ID of the frame is fine...gets you a ballpark idea...then you just have to ex
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I did a popping blank (I think, don't remember the model) for a crankbait blank a while back....it was a very nice blank. I would use them again.
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The comment of the Fly fishing market is dead on.....I can in no way understand how they can charge some of the prices they charge for a fly reel compared to a baitcaster....regardless of materials there is nowhere near the amount of gears and design involved in a fly reel as compared to a baitcaster. l On topic....I never got into using Loomis blanks simply because I didnt see the value....w
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Yeah, I saw Matagi had it....I played around in the shop yesterday and today and figured out how to make them on the lathe.....
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Same thing that comes in your kids medicine bottles....work great.
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I can't seem to find the preformed cork or EVA grip sections to fit on the KDPS hood. I know Mudhole has the 17....looking for a 16...thanks
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Yeah, its a nice blank....definately a sleeper in the Batson lineup. It is a blended blank...glass in the tip, graphite butt section. It can throw mid to deep cranks...I wouldnt use it for the small 1/4 oz. guys. Has a modl action (havent CCS'd it yet, can't give you numbers) VERY good for the money. I have a few in the shop now... I'll try to get some more info later...ccs etc.
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The only other nice thing about a tenon is that it will insure your grips are lined up correctly...just in case you over ream....not that I've ever done that or anything.........
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3S66MHF should put you darn close.
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I've installed one on a spinning seat.... size 16nps...It's not that comfortable on this seat..probably would be on casting though. Anyway, mine has a gap between the seat and blank....I just left it...looks fine.
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Haha...you mean ESPN and Berkley lied? He didnt win the classic on a chigger craw???? Really want to hear that story now..
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Thanks for the hint. I've been looking also....Anyone have any idea for red fir bark? There is a beautiful grip in the gallery made out of that stuff.
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Bill...just ask Boyd when he's actually beaten one of the "glass" boys on tour with a crankbait ;-).......hehehe
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I'm with Stan. i love that BS706 blank...but Ron is right, that RDR70M is a sleeper. I ended up with one on accident last year...built it just to get it out of the show....that thing is a great cranking stick.
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Chia, How bout a video of your test? You Tube is a great means of sharing demonstrations....I think more than a few of us are scratching our heads.
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I do mine the same as Phil. Works very nice. The tip on the alcohol dipped finger is key to getting a final smooth surface.....that one took me a while to figure out...glad I'm not the only one.
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Hillrie Rouse Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bob-------for 6 bucks or so , why would u bother > to make it? For the satisfaction of building your own grips...not to mention providing your customers with a better quality grip with no filler. The preformed grips serve a purpose...I used them on my first few builds and then graduated to shaping split
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I should really spray at work to..I always step out of my back door for a minute and then take it back to the shop...
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I don't think I understand what you are saying....what on earth are you putting in the freezer? Where in the Dimanond II directions does it tell you to do that. I received a sample of the Diamond II a while back from the manuf. I had no issues with bubbles (using a mixer) pot life, or anything you are complaining of. I ended up sticking with TM since I am used to it, but I really don't see how
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Chuck. I've used that same paint for the same reason. On the hood I just spray a really light coat....enough to give it color, not enough for the hammer effect since you wont see it anyways with the ridges on the hood nut.
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Roger, Not to get off topic, but you shouldnt need 14 guides for a conventional setup. I would recommend searching Alex Z's or Bobby Feazels posts about this...good info out there.
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Haha....glad it's not just me. Looks like the vendors are going to have to start sending two hoods per seat ...... Haha...painting the hoods looks great chuck. I mask off the metal portion and just paint the graphite part.
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So, I'm packaging up a 12 rod order for a customer this morning that he HAS to have in a few days for a fishing trip....Rods are all done...ready to go....as I am about to put a rod in a tube I notice that I forgot to put the reelseat hood back on the seat after I painted them both......ARGHHH....First step...find the painted to match hood...CHECK....second step.....Slide it right down the rod ov
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My go to blank for that use is the Batson RX8 XSB843-TC built casting. The XMB is nice, but I like the tip of the XSB better. I would not recommend the XSB802.5...way to light of a tip....that thing is a great DS rod....if they made an 822.75 in the RX8 series it would be great.
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Yeah, I looked at a bunch of them. I've seen Jim Gamble recommend Quickbooks Premier. I went with it simply because I can take the individual parts from inventory and create a new item for sale...AND....it keeps track of everything else also....I didn't want to have multiple lists etc. I am TERRIBLE with book keeping..so this makes it easier.
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I know I have seen several recent topics on inventory management etc. I've seen Quickbooks premier recommended since it can handle manufacturing. The newest version is $400 from intuit...just thought I would pass along a legit download from Amazon....$238....much better.
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Billy, Will you have your jigs available to order before or after the show also?
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SC40 PVC as others have mentioned. The shipping companies are masters at breaking tubes....they can break SC40...but it's harder to do than the lighter PVC>
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Haha...I had to do a google search to find what you guys were talking about...nice.
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Not to argue about the solids vs. fumes thing.....BUT...if you can smell it.....SOME particle is leaving the bottle, mixed finish, etc. and making its way through the atmosphere. One of the first things we learned in HazMat Ops was if you can smell it your already exposed. Of course, in our instance the slight amine smell isnt a huge issue. Just keep in mind that you can become allergic to alm
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