This is in response to Cliff Hall's post noting that 'RING SIZE' may have more to do with the friction encountered during casting. Since we use line in the 2 lb test diameter, I've been thinking that even the smallest guides are plenty large to pass the line through withou minimal friction. I'm talking a about size 3.5 or 4 - really really tiny. These have openings that's about the size of a
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OK, a question that has been swirling around my mind as I've been testing various spinning/casting blanks. To 'predict' two blank's sensitivity assuming that they are the same power and action, I have been focusing primarily on weight. By this, I mean if two blanks are identical in every aspect, except for weight, I'd go with the lighter one and be confident that it would be more sensitive.
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Thanks to all. John, I thought that Naples was 4/0 and thinner than YLI. At least that is what I read in the back post. I think you are finding that YLI is thinner than Naples? I think Angler's Workshop's silk is by YLI too. By the way, I don't find Naples all that thin and it is very easy to work with. After snapping a couple of times, it became second nature. Thanks. Mo
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I'll second the various recommendations for a fly rod. I think that a 3-4 wt would be great. In my case, I use a 4 piece by building the handle on the butt of the 3rd piece and use the final piece shortened to the end cap. For a fly, I would recommend looking for a faster action since they are longing and rather slow. That way, if you shorten it, you will have decently quick action. Per
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I'm on all manual setup. For this, I highly recommend the Sully's rod wrapper. As someone from an engineering background, once in a long while I find a product that is brilliantly designed and take much pleasure in using it. Sully's is one such object. It is worth every penny and continues to be a pleasure everytime I use it. Mo
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Gosh...I didn't even think you could reuse the cups. Time to join the cheap...er.....'frugal' camp. Thanks guys....I think....:) Mo
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Gosh...I didn't even think you could reuse the cups. Time to join the cheap...er.....'frugal' camp. Thanks guys....I think....:) Mo
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Gosh...I didn't even think you could reuse the cups. Time to join the cheap...er.....'frugal' camp. Thanks guys....I think....:) Mo
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Tom and Don, Thanks. Really appreciate you taking time. A couple of quick response. 1. I did saturate with permagloss and did not wick until it is well saturated. I did try another wrap on a bamboo chopstick as a test without wicking. Just completely saturated but without filling in the tunnels between the guide and 'rod' - and it was a bit better, but not much. It also still lo
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Wrapping with white Pearsall Naples and needing a bit of technical help. Obviously if anyone on the web knows, it's you guys....:) 1. I want the Naples to go clear. Everyone of the few photos that I see silk going transparent, the finish is quite thick and fills the gap under the thread where the guide feet meets the blank. In my case, I prefer a thin finish for minimal weight. I trie
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Sorry, forgot mark this thread for e-mail update. Thanks, Mo
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I'd love to see some photos from all of you silk wrap aficionados who wrap with white or light color silk on dark graphite blanks, and then make it go 'transparent' with permagloss, varnish, epoxy or whatever else you use. I'd love to see what's possible with different finishes. Thanks in advance for any help. Mo
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Did you check Kencor which is known for their fiberglass rods? Mo
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Out of curiosity, anyone know what modulus or type of graphite goes into their XMG50 blanks? Thanks, Mo
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Whoops...double post.
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My thought is that high end manufacturers such as Gatti, Loomis, St. Croix, Sage etc is trying to get the best tool in the hand of the angler - same goal as the custom rod builder. They are custom ins that they can design their own blanks. However, since they are manufacturing and can't customize for specific individuals, they try to get around this by having an extensive line which an angler c
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Just confirm - Can I thus safely submerge ALL blanks in boiling water and see no detrimental effect? I'm talking 30 seconds without touching the bottom. Thanks, Mo
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A few more quick personal observations: 1. Yes, I've wanted to try out blanks and Ken said that he had considered it for a while and then decided against it. Unfortunate for us as he has some innovative blanks including one where the handle is part of the blank and thus, no grip needed. It seems that would be very sensitive. 2. Airrus has the best warranty in the industry. Lifetime n
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www.tackletour.com has lots of comments on his rods that you can read. Both from the reviewers on the site who loves it and users. I've spoken to Ken Whiting, the owner, at various times and he is very enthusiastic about his products. He is certainly creative and innovative. Mo
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Hey guys.....all I did was to ask a simple questions.....LOL. Enjoyed the read. Mo
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So.......anyone know what this foam is? As to Asian tackle, I do consider the Japanese to be at the cutting edge of spin/casting equipment. Sure there is always marketing, and sometimes hype. However, there is also true performance. I just wish the top line Daiwas reels aren't a couple for $1K. Mo
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Thanks Tom! Real help. Mo
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Just to piggy back on this thread, it also bothers me when retailers/distributors charge shipping by the blank value. Example, for an one ounce 7' one piece, I had to pay Fed Ex air since it was 'oversize'. Shipping cost was 50% of the blank. If I wanted 5 of those blanks, the seller's actual shipping cost would have remained essentially the same (1 oz versus 5 oz). However, they woud char
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Quick query: At what temperature do the bonding agent or material in rod blanks start to fail? Asking because I may be doing some applications using hair dryers or even heat guns.... Thanks, Mo
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Daiwa came out with their new Exist rods which are beautiful and quite 'tricked out'. Anyways, my interest is in the foam that they use for grips which is very stiff and yet lighter than cork and EVA. Anyone know what this foam really is? You can read about it here: Thanks, Mo
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Tom, THANKS for a convincing clarification. Mo
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Ok, let me get this clear guys...... I've been 'spining' for every blank and you are saying that the spines really do not matter at all? Rather one should build it on the straightest axis? I thought one of the 'advantage' custom makers could offer over factory assembled rods (even the high end GLX) is that the custom builder spins the blanks. Is there pretty good conscensus that this never
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Thought I'd piggyback with a question on threadmaster here. If not OK, let me know and I'll ask in a different thread. Did not want to want to clog up this board with too many threads - trying to pace my questions here.....:) Wanting to have white silk wraps go transparent. Lacquer works. Would Threadmaster epoxy work to make silk threads go transparent/translucent? Thanks, Mo
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Greetings, THANKS for the responses. Emory, your comments is helpful. My priority is always performance and looks is a distant second. Function first. Form falls where it may. A couple of clarification: 1. I'm building spin rods so the guide is at the bottom. 2. I never use tip tops but wrap a guide for the tip so that the tip is lighter and the exact same height as the guides.
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A bit of a conundrum here which I'm sure is a simple issue for the pros here....:) Two high modulus blanks. 5'6" UL and 7' 2" L. Normally, the spacing between the tip guide and the 2nd guide is closer than the rest of the guides. As the guides goes down the blank towards the butt, the spacing gets wider and wider. Normally. However, when the line 'break angle' over the g
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