Anyone know of any sponsor or source for the Phillipson reel seat mentioned? Thanks, Mo
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THANKS to all who answered. I've seen at least 3 iterations in catalogs. Surely there are more options out there? Raymond, thanks for the post and link. Your seat looks very lightweight. Does it chew up the cork handle? The saltwater all have synthetic grips. Anyways, where would I find a Phillipson seat as you have? Thanks, Mo
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Quick question. Probably a very basic answer but I only recently became aware of these reel seats. I saw some very long salt water handles that was completely smooth like a Tennessee handle.. Apparently there are some reel seats that can slide up and down the handle and when the reel is mounted, locks in somehow? I've only seen this in pictures and surmise that's how it works. Anywa
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OH....:) THANKS! Blessings, Mo
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Never really thought to ask until now. For the intersecting guide on a spin rod, I've always used the same size guide as my terminal guides. So if my final few guides are size 6, my intersecting guide is size 6. Most don't do that apparently and use slightly larger ones. Why? Has anyone done casting tests and seen a real difference? MO
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If all you want is macro capability and can print up to 8X10 comfortably, then most modern day digicam (meaning small point and shoots) will do the job. Even older one that you can purchase for cheap. Do not need a digital SLR. Advantages over D-SLR is this: 1. Much cheaper. 2. Much greater depth of field because of the small imaging chip. 3. Much closer macro without having to purcha
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Thanks Chris. Read that and also did a search. (I think I had a brain fade which is why I did not do a search first.) Question answered. Thanks again Chris. Mo
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Stripping guides finished with traditional finishes is no problem. Sharp knife, a bit of patience and off they come. However, have not done this with rods finished with Permagloss. It's my preferred finish but I've not stripped any. Is it any different or much more difficult? thanks, Mo
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By the way, no doubt recoil grooves but I think the problem may be exaggerated - meaning it is generally not as bad for most light freshwater. I still plan to use it for a 9 1/2 feet lamiglass XMG salmon blank for absolutely the lightest build possible using to fling 1/4 oz lures as far as possible without having to go over 10 feet long. Mo
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TSG weigh a touch more but cost a bit less. Otherwise, very similar. Height difference is negligible. If you're building a really light rod as suggested by your TATSG 1st guide of size 20, then TLSG may be justified. That's of course assuming that you're building as lightly as possible. If you glob on the finish over the thread, then any weight gain you've made is pretty negligible by payin
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I've used Fuji SIC down to size 3.5. That's TINY. It will choke a 30 lb mono just because of the memory of the mono. Works great though for braided UL that's very limp and low memory. I believe it is more sensitive not just due to weight, but also the smaller size allows less line movement before acting on the guides (if your line has some slack) and thus blank. Blessings, Mo
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Mark, Wow, really impressed by the info you have. (And once again, the community at Rodbuilding comes up with data I did not believe I'd see....:) Thanks. Clarification term. What do you mean by 'heat resistance'. Does that mean the temperature at which the adhesive will still hold with full strength? So for example, Bohning Ferr-L-Tite is 216F melting point. Lets assume that its
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I'm not sure there's an adhesive fitting this description but here goes. Instead of using Rodbond or 5 minute epoxy, I'd love to have a glue that will stay hard until about 150 degrees Farenheit to stand up to the temperature inside a car trunk on a summer day. AND yet melt by 210 degree F. This way, to remove a grip or component, one simply need to boil the part. Since blanks can withsta
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Confirm that others have reported this also. That's one of the 'price' of using Recoils. Even the lowly oxide guides are harder than the recoils. To be fair, most who use recoils do not report this. Apparently most are not as demanding with as long a run as yours. Mo ps: I wonder if factory made GLXs include grooving of the recoils as part of their warranty coverage for the life of th
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bazlur rahman, I don't normally respond to posts like yours but will make one exception. As many others here will agree, Tom has poured his life into serving the rod building community. Being one with many interests and having participated in a great number of forum groups, I would say that Tom is #1 in what he has done for a special interest community. Your critique is uncalled for. Mo
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Size for size, fujis are lighter. This matters most if you are building for UL or L applications and are minimizing weight. Otherwise, probably not noticeable although Fujis Titaniums can be 30% lighter. But for the $, can't be beat for corrosion resistance if you fish salt water. Or just want to know you have titanium. Mo
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Not to hijack the thread....that's also my cern with reel seat. Surely there's got to be other solutions for lighter weight reel seats. Airrus just builds the reel seat right into the blank directly for example. Mo
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That's a great price. Free shipping too. So, after that - what other tools/parts do you guys recommend to go with that unit? Thanks, Mo
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Great!! Now just just have to match it to a 6.2 ounce $500 Daiwa Exist 2004 spin reel......LOL. Nice job. Mo
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Custom Tackle is great to talk about graphite handles. I believe they are one of the 'pioneers' in the sense that they have done a few iterations to push the envelope. I believe Lamiglass manufactures some of these tubing for others - not just the Texalium fiberglass ones. Mo
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A simple question. Perhaps Emory can respond from a physics point of view. WHY am I told repeatedly that a casting reel more powerful than the equivalent spinning reel? Equivalent in terms of approximately equivalent size/weight. Asking because I've only used spin reels with my two conventional reels dedicated to leadcore trolling. I just cancelled an order for two casting reels that was
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Thanks! Wow, 20% more weight just for 1 size larger. Very helpful. Mo
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Anyone has the weight of the Fuji DPSD reel seats in the two smallest sizes? I think that would be 16mm and 17mm respectively. Needing to find the lightest reel seats for two blanks - one with .56" diameter and one in .60" diameter. I'm told DPSD is probably it.... Thanks in advance, Mo
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I'm with Bazlu. Instead of pursuing multipiece, you really should take a look at some of these advanced TELESCOPIC rods. I could not find them easily so when I found a source, I picked up a nice little bunch of them. They really are incredible. ( These are good enough that I got a bunch to resell although not on this board.) All pack down to about 12.5 inches. My 9 footer can handle 4lb to
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Thanks Tom, Actuallyl my demonstration did not come out correctly in the formatting in this forum so I took it out. The split actually begins about 4 inches away from the tip. It does not start from the tip itself. That's why I can't cut that tip off. Also, this is an unusual telescopic rod so the next guide away from the tip is 8 inches away and I can't place a guide just on the crack
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Have a rod with solid graphite tip. The tip smashed into a sharp corner and had a small split. Basically, about 90% (by volume) of the tip is intact. 10% of the blank split off split in a 1" length parallel to the blank with one end still connected fully to the blank. Thus, when one bends the tip, 90% of the tip bends and 10% of the tip remains straight and separates from the blank.
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THANKS! Helpful. Blessings, Mo
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Thanks! Mind if I ask what size spinning reel you are using? Thanks Mo
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Dave, Thank you for the extensive answer. Very helpful. Won't use TATSGs then. By the way, do use braided line exclusively on the reels. Thanks, Mo
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Thanks Bill for taking time to respond. REALLY appreciate it. One follow up question. For multi piece blanks where the ferrules need to be reinforced, does your method give it reinforcement similar to thread wrap to prevent split/cracked ferrules? Thanks again, Mo
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