One of REC Recoil's selling point is its elasticity when deformed. It just bounces back. However, I'd like add some additional light bends into a Recoil guide and have it stay put. Anyone know how to do that with this material? (i.e. heat it? Overbend it?) Thanks, Mo
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Thanks to all. I feel that my question has been answered although more comments are welcome. Cliff, I hope to leave all such serendipitious success to intellectual giants who can handle it.... Emory - your comment makes perfect sense including the fact that the 1st guide should be a bit ahead of where the larger bend begins. Tom, as always - you run the absolute top forum on the web t
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Tom and Cliff, THANKS for the response. I'm surprised that this query did not garner more responses. Do few people not observe the phenomenon or simply don't think it matters? (Cliff...me thinks your intellectual capacity scared many away.....:) Anyways, Tom, to follow up on your note "There is a load on that section, but it's just not as apparent when you do a static stres
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OK, a bit puzzled here. I've started looking for this in some light power fast to moderate action blanks and it seems to be there consistently. When doing static text, I noticed that the tip 0"-5" of the blank seem straighter than the next 10" (meaning from 5" to 15" away from the tip). By this, I took that the tip 0"-5" is stiffer than 5"-11".
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Great tip. Very easy. I thought that there is a few types of 'canned air' or are they all CO2 based? (At least I think they are CO2). Thanks, Mo
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Emory and Chuck, thanks to both. Part of why I'm needing a tube is that I'm thinking of cutting away half the diameter of the tube over about a 2" part of the handle. Not sure if the remaining half round tube would be strong enough to tape a reel onto. Anyways, that's why I'm interested in the graphite tube even if it is heavier than cork. Thanks, Mo
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Spencer, GREAT! It actually doesn't matter whether it is the RSF or RSFX. I was simply wondering whether the lack of foot height reduced your casting distance using light lines on spin rigs. However, given that this is a dropshot and walleye jig, doesn't sound like casting distance is an important goal? I mentioned RSF simply because with light line, I don't think that the RSX is ne
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Emory, good point. Still, given that I need a tube with good wall strength for a grip design I'm contemplating, the Netcraft stuff sounds like the lightest tube so far. Thanks, Mo
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1.27 grams??!! Gosh, that's about HALF of cork. (Although my goal to begin with wasn't to try to be lighter than cork - but this is a bonus.) I may have to get some to try. Thanks, Mo
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On a side note: I've always been a bit curious about grinding steel, titanium, graphite (when cutting blanks) with power tools. I'm assuming that it is inevitable that some of the flying dust gets into one's lungs - unless one is using a high grade respirator. Anyone worry about the long term effects? Mo
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Just checked USPS rates. And to think that I've never tried that - just shipped some 7' using Fed Ex and I think USPS is 1/2 the cost! Thanks for the headsup. Thanks, Mo
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Alton, did you use the RSF or RSPG? Anyone else who have actually used the RSF on spin? Thanks, Mo
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Great question. For oversized, whom to use from the West Coast? Mo
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Emory, Gosh, talking about going above and beyond. You did not need to do that - but THANKS for doing so. If you know: Is your graphite arbors similar to the Flexcoat polyurethane arbors? Mo
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Anyone here use Recoil RSF (single foot fly rod guides, not snake guides) for spin blanks? Would love to hear your thumbs up or thumbs down thoughts. Thanks, Mo ps: Yes, I know they have the RSPG specifically for 'single foot spinning rod'.
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Emory, I must have missed it. Searched and scanned through your posts for the last 90 days and did not see it. I probably need new glasses....:) Would you kindly give me a suggestion as to a couple of search words I might use to find your post? Thanks, Mo
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Wow, thanks for all the quick responses. Ted - Well, still trying to be as light as possible but not quite a 'nuts' about it now. You're right about the balance. We're making all rods balanced in right at the reel foot so they are not as light as possible. But within that parameter, trying to be as light as possible. There's a point of diminishing returns and I think we're hitting it....:
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Thanks Mick. Helpful to have advance warning- I'll scratch that - unless I can find a metal cap to fit he bottle's threading. I wonder if one of those model airplane paint caps would work. Looks about the same size. Anyways, thanks for the heads up. Mo
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Greetings to all. I'm looking for the lightest 1" to 1.25" graphite tube available to make into tennessee handles. In the past, I've spoken to various manufacturers who assured me that their graphite tennessee handles are lighter than cork. Well, none are and I've stayed with cork for the lightest handles. However, I'm thinking of trying to do a graphite tennessee handle fo
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Instead of transferring into a can, I'm simply thinking of screwing a very small screw right into the plastic cap and draining it that way, and then screwing it in to stop the flow again. Any reason why that won't work? (i.e. Perhaps the plastic cap will split which means I may need to predrill a hole first?) Mo
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Piggybacking on this thread: Assuming one uses regular cork, any guess or actual measurment how much weight flocking adds to the grip? Thanks, Mo
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Steve, Can you e-mail me with your e-mail? I'll try to take some pictures in a couple of days to send to you along with a mini review. Bsically, a 6' 7" medium power telescopic with 8 SIC guides, collapses to 12 inches long (no kidding) and weighing sub 3.5 ounces. Really amazed what technology has come to with these telescopics. Nice soft tip, but very solid power in the mid and bu
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The best telescoping rods have traditional wrapped SIC guides from the factory. Mo
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Fully agree with Emory. I just built a 5' 6" UL/L rod. Per the manufacturer's suggestion and general approach here, I put the 1st guide at 5". drove me nuts trying to do the static test etc. Well, I just let the blank guide me and the first guide ended up 7" away from the tip. The 2nd guide was then 5" away, followed by 6", 7", 10". Works beautifull
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Emory, I know that you think that manufacturers build rods that 'are somewhat general purpose and designed for the average fisherman'. However, I see huge amount of specialization in the higher end manufacturers. Just a read of Tackletour and the casting rods discussed there really illustrates this. The way I see it, a custom builder builds to an individual's needs. Large manufacturers
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I know the query is about fly rods. However, here's my comments on spin rods. I prefer balance to be absolutely neutral around the first and second finger. Put another way, the center of balance would be at the reel feet. This way, any weight I feel from the tip is from the line or lure or fish, and not the rod. Just my line of reasoning and works well for me. It also makes the whole rig f
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For me, 1. Much reduced weight when the rod is perfect balanced at the reel feet. (spinning rods) 2. Best guides possible 3. Proper guide placement 4. Custom grip As to what Mick McComesky said about guide foot prep, he was kind enough to prep a large set for me in the past and they are absolutely perfectly prepped. Very very beautiful. I'm not quite that skilled in that department.
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Emory, These things to measure RPM are definitely affordable. They are less than $30 and I think I've seen some at $15 a couple of years back. My neighbor uses it for his RC airplanes and measures his propeller RPMs. An example on @#$%&: [] Thanks to all who responded to this thread. Mo
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Unless I'm misunderstanding resonant frequency, it seems that resonant frequency would be very easy to measure. Just pick up one of those cheap gizmos that radio control airplane enthusiasts use to measure rpm of their prob and point it at the tip of a rod with the butt end firmly held against a heavy bench. Pull the tip and release and see how many oscillations the tip goes through per unit o
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Wow, thanks for all the read. I need to pull my engineering texts back out....:) OK, to ask a simpler question: I place physical weight as the #1 characteristic of import when I evaluate two blanks of identical power/action. Is this appropriate or inappropriate when I'm trying to build rods that are as responsive/crisp/quick recovering/sensitive as possible. (This is assuming that both bla
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