I have found the opposite. Foam grips for me need to be reamed very close to final placement. Cork, I could slide down further with the epoxy applied.
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I have done the same thing. Got back into rod building over covid and working through a couple batches of old epoxy. I have not had any issues. If doing lighter wraps, could be more of an issue. But, the applied coat is so much thinner than what is in the bottle that the amber color is not noticeable at least with darker thread colors. If you are doing white blanks or wraps, test it first for
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Does anyone know if the models available in the Bass3 line up will also become available in one of the c4 lines?
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You can change the language to English on the rodhouse site. great tool!
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I jumped into the JDM reels this year for the first time due to exchange rate. Scorpion DC for $210 vs $260 for a curado DC but scorpion has the higher end DC module with more adjustments), zillion sv tw g for $250 instead of $350, a 22 zillion HD for $270 vs what will be well over that in the USA when released, aldebaran mgl $244 vs $430 here. So, the cost savings can be significant right n
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Leonard Bourdage Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have the MB664 and the SB684. The MB has a lot > more back bone. For me, the MB664 is a great 3/8 > ounce jig rod and the SB684 is a good light soft > plastics spinning rod (1/4 tubes and 4" weightless > senkos, or light drop shot, type rod (it's a lot > more buggy whip type feel than
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It looks like my subscription lapsed at 25-2. I renewed today.
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Ok. What issues is this in? Am I missing an issue?
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For me, the DS 721 X-ray and for up to 1/4 oz drop shot weights with nose hooked baits. The SJ 732 is a finesse spinning rod. Thing typical bass finesse of open hook jigs, 1/8 oz plus soft plastic bait, give or take a little on weight of jig. The MB733 is a finesse skirted bass swim jig in sparse over, keitech 3.8” rigged on open head or weedless hook. That kind of thing. The Sj 736 is
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I think those rods will be under powered for those lure weights. Using a 1/4 dropshot is different than having that resistance from a moving lure or pulling a Carolina weight.
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The point blank medium light is the most powerful bass blank I am aware of to be called a “medium light”, so kind of not a great comparison. Definitely an outlier when compared to a lot of brands.
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Don’t forget sc3 in the middle.
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I have heard rumors that the NFC HM SJ762 is a good hair jig blank similar to the G. Loomis 901’s. But, I have not fished a hair jig yet so I cannot confirm. THe SJ762 is good for the lighter Ned rigs.
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I still fish a PMB 703 and PMB 704 casting rod. I broke my PSB 702 (I think, need to find it and see what it was exactly) spinning rod. I built that one with a smidge too long of a handle, but was my second favorite spinning rod I have ever used.
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Here is the data I am using to compare. Multiply the column in res by 100 to get power in grams.
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Yes, I am comparing the 7’ SCV’ MLF and MF to eachother. Also have a SC3. My SCV’s are factory ones, but I have a couple SCV blanks waiting for me to build as well. The best table I have found for comparing is the RDA table since the CC data for non-fly rod blanks seems pretty hard to find. It is nice that Point Blank publishes both methods.
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My favorite Ned rig rod is the St. Croix 7-0 MLF. I consider the 7-0 MF to be too heavy. I usually use jig heads between 1/16 and 1/8. If you are using a 1/4 head, a medium should be good. It looks like the Point Blank ML is more powerful than the St. Croix 7-0 MF rods, so I think that would be overkill and limit casting distance with lighter, traditional Ned rigs. For me, fishing clear wate
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For me, I just build for myself and Christmas gifts for family. So, I try to stick with the factory labels when possible. But, sometimes I alter the blank and accurate specs would be helpful (and my handwriting is AWFUL on flat surfaces, much less writing on a blank). I did do an inkjet label once (on a Shikari blank a few years before they closed for time reference) and that has held up just
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I talked to Epson yesterday, and they recommend the 800 due to the higher resolution for labels the size that we use on fishing rods. They also referred me to LRT and knew that he worked with custom rod builders on label stuff, so he is known for that at Epson as well.
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Your take on the NEO is spot on. That blank is very cool and the mix of a the tip and deeper load is unique for sure.
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To the top helps keep track of active threads. It can also keep dead horses being beaten. Everything has a trade off. I think the biggest win of site design is the simple list of sponsors on the left. It has been the only site I go to that I actually go to the site to find a vendor because of the simple format.
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Sure, release a new blank I am interested in right after my order ships :)
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I have the same bushido 7’2” 4-8# blank. I have not built it yet, but it is way lighter power than the Liberty one. I have not built it yet but the MHX elite-x nsj 870 seems a step up from the Bushido in power through the middle of the blank but not as much as the Liberty blank,
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The Liberty DS blanks have a lot of power once you move past the tip. I do not think it would be an ideal panfish blank.
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Wow. I saw those ultimate reamers before, but thought that was the price for a full set, not just a single reamer!
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Is the Magic Wands book mainly the same info as the article series?
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I am sure that NFC will do well here. Interesting, this website no frills list of sponsors has it being my first stop when I look for rod building stuff. I rarely even use my bookmarks, just head here and look at the sponsor list if i am trying to find something. I use it more than google too.
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Mentioned in the latest issue. No details there. But, look at the very bottom of the website. Click on webmaster on the homepage at the very bottom. Assuming that is the new owner.
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I have not used the rv6 yet, just placed order. It sounded like a high framed guide (for a size 6). So, for the bumper guide, as low as possible is the target for guide height. I will need to see i guess once guides arrive. I am planning on size 5 for all guides after the RV6. I realize i could go smaller but thinking that is safer in case i want to go to a braid to leader setup in the futur
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Since i spiral wrap, i am thinking the bumper guide as a kb, and the first and second 180° guides as kb’s. Or should i add one more kb at least on heavier rods since the bumper doesn't' really count? I suppose having guides on the bottom may offset the need for an extra kb though as well.
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