I like the DS721 X-ray as a nose hooked with a size 1 or 2 hook drop shot rod. The old Shikari P7000 popping rod was highly regarded for drop shot and it looks like the CCS numbers are close for those two blanks.
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For what it’s worth, NFC just released a SJ703 in X-ray C6O2. If you look at the regular X-RAY SJ703 (1.5 oz) and black mirror version (1.3 oz) , I am not really seeing a weight savings with the C6O2 version weights 1.4 oz, based on the website. But, maybe there is a power difference between the C6o2 and other x-rays. Hard to say. I think that should be a good Ned rig blank.
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If it wasn’t for St. Croix’s business model change with blanks, they would still be the main rod blank brand I used, but I know longer get a discount on them since they only sell direct through RodGeeks. So, the NFC’s are more cost effective for me. But, I still bought a few SCV from RodGeeks of my favorite blanks.
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I think that is a good option.
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I have the NFC SJ762 HM. It is lighter than a St. Croix 70MLF. For the lighter Ned rigs, it would be fine. It is more of a light power rod. Same goes for the bushido 4-8# spinning rod. I have the blank but does not feel like what I was looking for. My favorite light power blank I have found is the Elliott rod blanks 73lf. Similar to the NFC 762 in power but the Elliot blank has slightly mo
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I like the St. Croix 70MLF rods for Neds. They look to be around 350 grams power. I also have a X-ray DS721. If I am throwing jig heads lighter than 1/16th oz, that may get the nod. Otherwise, 1/16th oz and heavier is the 70MLF. If you are exclusively using the 1/20th, I am not sure offhand which is better. I need winter to break to check. Probably fine either way. But, that is right
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I have been happy with the runner too, but if small amounts of weight, especially at the tip, matter, they do seem to be on of the heavier options for weight in the tip section. In terms of overall weight, they do not add much to the rod, but I suppose on lighter rods in particular they may affect things a bit.
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It would be interesting to see the following: 1. First two microwave spinning guides, then Fuji runners vs. regular Microwave and Fuji KR 2. Fuji KR set up for a specific reel and the next reel size larger that changes specs a bit. I wonder if the 5-10’ difference Lance saw would also show up with using a different reel with the ideal KR setup. Or, if the Microwave setup would gain 5-10
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Since the microwave runners are most similar to the belly guides of fuji in size, I weigh 10 of each and averaged the weight. Fuji T2 SIC black guides size 5: 0.1 grams each Alconite belly guides size 5: 0.17 grams each Microwave Nanolite size 5 runner: 0.25 grams each In a whole set of runners made of one of these, would be less than 0.05 ounces difference in weight for the runners.
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I am pretty certain the spinning TiOn guides are only a coating. I switched to the black ones for that reason. Cost wasn’t worth it for just a coating.
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If I had a dealer that sold the first two guides separately, I would probably do this as well. Since the Microwave guides are not available in Titanium, I would probably at least run titanium frame runners on lighter rods at least.
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For me, I like the easy setup and the flexibility to swap reels since it is not as specific of set up based on individual reel specs.
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I will shoot you an email Larry. Thanks. For me, rod building is a hobby only, I have not done a cost analysis. My hand writing (I blame it on being a lefty) is atrocious so I use factory labels when I can and make my own when I need to. Each one would be unique to the rod, so ordering 1 of decals would probably be a pain. Plus I used the label maker for work.
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This is currently on the dryer so hard to get phone to focus without getting it out. My printer does not trim edges and the trimmer I bought did not do as well as I would have liked. The first label I just used a scissors.
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I have the new LW-C610PX which I believe has the same DPI but is cheaper. Here is an example of a label I made
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If the guides were arranged so line still ran straight, I think the effect on line management would be no different than smaller guides, but with added weight in the zig zag configuration. If the line is like the picture above, there would be some additional tension on the guides when line is taunt which might boost sensitivity a bit if all else is equal on the build. Maybe.
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BFS is kinda fun. I wasn’t sure I would like it, but it has been fun for my backyard pond fishing. Something else to experiment. Some day, I will put a BFS rod up against a similar spinning and do some comparisons with the exact same lure weights. For me, experimenting is a part of the fun of rod build, making lures, and fishing.
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I have a Xray 765 Neo that was exactly 2.0 oz of added weight. The ECSM reel seat under the threads filled completely with the blank, it did not need an arbor. CFX carbon split grip, no fore grip, threads trimmed on reel seat, regular Alconites (size 6 runners, probably a 12 for butt guide. I have a P700 xray with the same build but micro guides, added 1.7 oz. Smaller butt on split grip. N
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I will fill a gap below the threaded portion with an arbor if the gap is large, but for how the exposed blank portion fits the rod, you should not need to do anything. At least, if I am interpreting this right.
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The only time I have needed to ream an ECS reel seat is when I do not have the right size on hand. I think RodBond or similar is enough to fill any gap i since they come in every .5mm size option.
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Here is a label I printed with the LW-C610PX
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Since this thread started, the LW-C610PX printer was released which is a lot cheaper than the px-800 but prints with the same higher dpi and uses the same cartridges.
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Do most of you fish the carbon fiber grips as they come, or do you clear coat them? I usually have clear coated them but thinking about trying some as they come from NFC and CFX.
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To me, the 68mxf rx10 would be a good drop shot rod, light tip and give in the upper half. But, I do not need more dropshot rods. I even went with the 6-8 instead of the 6-10 version because it weighed more figuring it would not have that kind of action then. I wonder if rods with that kind of deflection profile are harder to pick out from CCS data. Take the St. Croix 76mlxf. That has a ligh
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These number greatly vex me. I bought a couple of the ETES68MXF, but expected a MXF blank to have more power than a MLF blank. Give line and lure ratings, one would assume that is the case. Given the CCS data and after receiving the blanks, the MXF is clearly not as powerful as expected. David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 4 examples from Rai
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I use a roll of pinstriping tape from an auto paint store.
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Even on finesse stuff trailers add up. A 1/10 oz jig with a 2.8-3” swimbait is now a 1/4 oz.
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I have tended to put the spine on the bottom (inside of stressed curve up). My thinking has been that it will track better and more consistently on the cast. I build with spiral guides, so guides are always on the bottom which is a great effect than spine anyway since load comes from below anyway. In reality, even though I mainly cast overhang, the effect is probably minimal. I should chang
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I have the DS 761. I like it for what I consider normal drop shot fishing. 1/4 or less sinkers, 30' or less. It protects light line well. Good with nose hooked dropshots. It is also good on the lighter end of Ned rig fishing (say 1/20 and above). I am guessing for Great Lakes style deepwater smallmouth dropshoting, the DS 761 may be a little to light. On my bucket list to figure out some da
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I have started making a split Tennessee handle using a PacBay graphite color foam arbor. I applied the woven graphite to the arbor material. It appears to be a little harder, more resistance to denting with a finger nail, than the foam in my usual CFX handles that I use. So far, I have not clear coated over the top of this set of grips. I might try using them without the clear coat this time.
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