It was a Minima tip with a little thread and finish. I removed that and wrapped a Minima titanium single foot on the top with no finish. So, definitely thought it would increase the number. The guide weighs 1/2 the tip. I wouldn't think the thread would add that 1/2 plus some to change the number. I don't know. I'll try it all over tomorrow.
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I've used the CCS system for years. But, embarrassingly haven't done any CCF tests. So, today I decided I would give it a try. Went well overall. However, I tested an dancraft GXT that came up with a CCF of 85. Then I took the off the tip and wrapped on a single foot guide, which when weighed on my digital scale is 1/2 the weight of the tip. So, I assumed a bit of an increase in the CCF numb
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Makes sense.
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By leverage do you mean stress as a negative? Or, leverage as power in a positive?
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I did have the guides wrapped on the rod. Just no finish applied. It still moved. But, it probably loosened and then began to move. I haven't had any problems on my other rod with high frames. I think it's just that everything is a trade off. You get a little and lose a little. I give everything a try.
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Makes sense. I will give it a try. Thanks
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I'm sure I do over exert. Trying to smooth it all out. So, the standard sized guide is better for the torque? Does it take it from the rod and put it on the guide? Therefore needing a beefier guide?
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Good thoughts. I don't fish where I need to fight fish off the reel. But, I see how that would be an issue. As well as line loading properly on reel. I've been using the single foot, high frame Minimas on my 8 weight I use to throw big bugs for smallies and their more than up to the task. Now muskie or tarpon, not sure. But, I have a feeling they'd be fine.
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I was casting a fly rod I was in the process of wrapping and what happened has led me to a question. The first stripping guide (high framed, single foot, titanium Minima) on the rod was only wrapped on for casting purposes. No finish had been applied. What I noticed was that after 10 minutes or so of casting, the guide had moved its way to the left side of the blank (I cast right handed). Obvious
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Thanks for the heads up and I will do that. Sounds great.
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Is Fuji still the only company making a solid titanium tip top? Other than REC Recoils. And if so, why? Hasn't anyone else mastered the technology? It might bring down the price if there was a little competition.
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Definitely
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I'm assuming the CFX grips from Mudhole can be inletted for fly seats with crafty cutter tool. Since they're not offering them pre drilled.
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You know, I do see some wear on the thread wrap on the single foot guide used for tip. And the single foot guides, especially the Minimas, do have a decently long foot. I think that thread wrap with the finish added is probably enough to equal out the weight gain of an average stainless tubed fly tip. The Fuji titanium framed tips are probably the best compromise since they're the lightest. But
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Reducing barrel size is an option. Do have to use a Dremmel tool or something like that to get a clean cut? Is stainless hard to cut through? Not sure on scale accuracy. Wasn't really looking at getting to scientific with the whole thing until I noticed the tip weights. Haven't tried measuring light wire guides.
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Tube size can be a pain. I just think if you can reduce weight, especially in possibly the most important spot on the rod, you should. A benefit is a benefit whether you're a beginner or on staff at Sexyloops.
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I've got a question about fly rod tip tops. I got a digital scale early last year and began weighing guides & tops. Mainly to just satisfy some curiosity. What I found was that the standard stainless steel, wire fly tip weighs close to twice that of the last running guide before the tip. That applies to snake, single foot and Minimas & other ringed guides & tips. So, we're trying to
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That's very true.
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I used them (Minima) on my Five Rivers 7 wt all summer with no problems. Granted, I didn't use it exclusively. But, quite a bit. And I used it in my kayak. So, it definitely saw its fair share of abuse.
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I'm not the best caster in the world. But i can double haul and throw some line. The Minima single foots have held up well on my 7 wt. throwing big bugs. Not too worried about them failing.
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Is there any real performance reason for using double footed stripping guides on a fly rod? It's just never made sense to me. Maybe I'm missing something. I can see the aesthetic thing and the easy fit inside a thinner rod tube. But, a high profile single footed spin guide does seem to provide some performance benefit by providing a better angle for line coming off the reel. May only be imagined
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The beauty of rod building is being able to try new things. If it doesn't work or you don't like it, it can be redone to your liking. Especially guides. It does seem snakes may be a bit less snaggy if knot is going to be inside the guides.
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Oops
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I personally prefer single foots. Seems less line slap and sloppiness. I think any casting distance is negligible. Not to hijack the thread, but I've wondered why are double footed stripping guides used? I find the hi profile, small ringed single foot guides much better. Line angle coming off the reel is better and seems smoother. Is there any technical reasons I'm missing other than aesthetic
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That's a good idea. If it exposes enough material which it should. I'll give it a try.
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Then, there is no way to tell what you got. Een a Fuji tech told me the magnet test is really the only way to tell. But, I didn't ask about plating. Some I know are solid titanium because I never used them and they still had a label on them and they don't react to magnet. Others I know are stainless and they do. So, that seems to be a pretty good test. Does anyone have any Fuji weight charts?
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I'm still trying to make absolutely sure that some guides I have are solid titanium framed because I want to sell. I know they're solid because I've never bought any Ti plated guides. But, how does someone know I'm telling the truth. I've used the magnet test on them. The solid Ti shows no reaction. On some known stainless guides the reaction is instantly strong. However, on some black framed g
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Sounds good. I'm surprised more folks haven't chimed in. I figured more would see the benefits of using a guide in place of a standard tip tops. Still kind of wondering how it will hold up to big game fish. I'm guessing if wrapped and finished properly, will hold up as well as a standard tip.
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It's a loop to loop connection which I think may be more bulky than the nail knot. Haven't had any problems with size #6 runners or tip with the 8 wt. line. I would figure on size #7 runners and tip on a 10/11 wt. Could even use a size #8 guide for tip if need a bit larger.
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I got size #6 running guides and same for tip. Connection is loop to a furled leader.
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