It’s Fuji Ultra Poly thread.
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Here is the result. Frankly, I figured it would darken more than it did. The thread is Fuji Ultra Poly in Goldenrod and the metallic is ProWrap in Gold Leaf, IIRC (had it for awhile). You can see the original color on the spool for comparison. I'm not crazy in love with the final color, but I'm glad I conducted the experiment. Besides, if I decide I don't care for it, I can always re-do them.
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I priced out Norm's suggestion and it came out to $135 (rounding) including shipping and tax and a small surcharge for supplies. That's based on the blank Norm suggested, Fuji seat and EVA split grips and CRB SSR guide train and tip top.
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You may be right David. It certainly makes sense to me. That said, I've not encountered this issue before and both of my dryers are 18 rpm motors. The only variable (outside of possible human error) is me switching to a different finish epoxy and maybe it has a slightly different consistency. I don't know, but all is well that ends well as I got it fixed, and it looks fine now. :)
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Thank you Norm, I’ll give that look.
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I got a request, an unreasonable request IMO, from an acquaintance. The request is for an 8’ crappie spinning rod with a reel seat with the blank exposed and non-ceramic guides and the budget is $150. Surely, I can’t be the only one that receives these kind of requests. I can’t fathom this being possible, but am all ears if someone has an option.
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If you’re not worried about longevity, why bother with wraps? Seems like an unnecessary pain in the rear if you’re going to be changing guides often. I’d just put them on with one coat of whatever epoxy/finish floats your boat sans the thread wraps.
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I got it fixed. I exercised more caution than I probably needed to, but I was worried about sanding into the decal. Anyway, I just sanded progressively with higher and higher grit that I put on a small wood block until all the shiny spots were gone. Refinished it and it looks great. In hindsight, I think I just got a little heavy handed with the finish and that’s why it ended up wavy. As I said,
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I try to build my rods as light as possible using quality components.
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Thanks all for the feedback and suggestions. I really appreciate it.
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I recently switched epoxy and think I got a little too much on. I don’t use heat with this epoxy so I know it wasn’t due to that.
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Thanks! I’ll give that a go.
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First time I've had this issue, but the epoxy finish didn't level out smooth over rod specs decal. I can only assume I got a little heavy handed with the finish epoxy. The only thing I know to do is live with it, or sand it down carefully and put on another coat. I thought of possibly using heat, but I worry if I start adding heat to it, it might weaken the rod blank? Ideas?
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I look at it like this. If they’re buying custom rods from you rather than buying over seas built rods from some box store, I doubt they’re going to get to worked up over $30 a rod for a name change.
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David, I'll definitely watch the video, but the particular issue I was having these trim bands were one turn trim bands. I couldn't figure out how to do a single turn trim band. Thank you for the info!
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Thank you Gerald, for keeping me from losing my mind trying to figure out how to do a single turn trim band. Never occurred to me to do both colors at the same time so I could do one, two thread, three turn trim band.
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Here's the final product. I've included a pic of one of the other guides on the rod for comparison. One of the original guides: Replacement guide that gave me fits (the bands)
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I don't know the answer to your question, but I know what I would tell the customer. "I'll do my best, but sometimes these things are proprietary and are not available to the public so if I can't match exactly, I'll let you know. Then, you can decide if you want to proceed or send back to the factory for the repair". But, I don't do this as a business so...
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You can buy the bearings (“wheels”) for the RBS from Mudhole. If your CRB wrappers work on your track (same wrapper I have), then you should be good to go if you replace your bearings with these. Here’s a link.
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I only have experience with the RBS track. The OD is 7 3/4", the slot tracks are 1" wide, with a 1/8" lip on each side of the slot, and from the center of one track to the center of the other is 6.5".
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Thank you gentlemen! I got it done, but it was no easy task. I used the straw method, but did the two threads together per Gerald's suggestion. I had a dickens of a time trying to get four tag ends through the tunnel (two at each end). I think if this ever comes up again, I'll give Mark and Roger's suggestions a try (didn't see them until after I got it done).That way, I can see what works bet fo
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Thanks Phil, it never even occurred to me to try to do both threads at the same time. Glad this place is here! So much info!
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I’ll give that a try. Thanks!
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since starting rod building a few months ago. I’m doing a guide repair. The main wrap is red. However, it has three single metallic gold bands. I know how to do trim bands and I know how to do inlays. Here’s the rub for me. It starts out with one single red turn, one single gold, one single red, one single gold, one red, one gold, and then continue the wrap in red. I’ve racked my brain trying to
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Thank you, but I just posted it so you could see the thread color to see if it might be close to what you're wanting.
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Here’s what it looks like.
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I know you said NCP, but you might check out ProWrap colorfast #404. I’ve used it on my last two rods and think it looks great.
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I concur with Stan. The Flex coat video might be worth a watch.
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Well, I know what I'd do then. I'd just get as close as I could and run with it. Their guides can't be all that and a slice a bread or it wouldn't have broken to begin with. ;)
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Will Daiwa not tell you what guide is on it?
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