I have shown the sample with CP on it to the customer and he was good so off we go with part two of the test which is to put the clear urethane on the sample. One thing I noticed after the CP dried is the colors did darken slightly. I also can’t help wondering if the cord will become brittle over time (after the urethane). I don’t know. I guess time will tell. I’m just glad I’m a creature of habi
Forum: rodboard

As pointed out, you lose quite a bit of your 6’ with that long of a grip. But, if you like it, that’s all that matters. As for full grips vs split, I prefer a full grip because I’m generally a two handed caster. That said, I have a couple of store bought rods that have split grips and I cast them just fine. That leads me to believe some of our preferences are little more than some psychological h
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I'm doing a sample test now with CP. And, as luck would have it, I happen to have some clear urethane so I'll definitely give that a try once the CP is dry. Thanks!
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I like the test idea. Think I’ll play around with a small sample. On a side note, I think having para cord as a grip on a fishing rod is nutty, but it’s what he wanted.
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I try very hard to not over complicate things. As such, I try to build my rods with a goal of maximizing the feel. I want to feel the nibble of so much as a baby bream. Every component of my build is thought out with tang in mind.
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I just finished a flipping rod for a customer and did a para cord grip per his request. This is the first time I’ve done para cord. It turned out well, but the customer didn’t specify any finish for it. Is it customary to leave it unfinished? If not, what should I use? Thanks! I’m concerned about a finish because it is a multicolor patriotic color scheme and I don’t want to ruin it. Thanks!
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I use cork exclusively because it is very durable and very light. I also prefer a full length grip on my personal rods, but most customers prefer split.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If the guide has any steel in it, then it's not a > solution. Been a long, long time since anybody > made rod blanks from steel, or even aluminum. > > ............. Actually, there's an outfit that makes them now. Look up Emmrod fishing rods. Not my cup of tea, but they have a following.
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Roger’s idea is the best. However, I don’t have a lathe so I do exactly what Lynn suggested (ream from both ends) and I’ve not had a problem yet doing it that way.
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I’m not the arbiter of this sort of thing, but I would speculate that even if you manage to straighten it, it’s probably going to be much weaker where it curved. On the bright side. You can always just tell folks you built on the natural bend of the rod. Who’ll know the difference? :)
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I'm not sure if Daryl was speaking about using CP > with the Pro Wrap Guacamole, but if he meant > without CP, then I'd have to agree. Definitely a > color you want to give consideration to. If you're > building this rod for a Notre Dame fan, I think > your customer would be extremely happy with
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I have some ProWrap in Guacamole that is pretty similar to Kelly green, IIRC.
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Raymond, I built my nephew a swimbait rod using that exact RodGeeks blank and he loves it. Definitely think you’ll be happy with that blank.
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Up and the flag’s own right (observer(s) left).
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ken hoever Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Daryl Ferguson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > The question that begs to be answered is how > much > > did you charge him for the rod he caught the > 400 > > lb tuna on? My guess is he's not going to be > too > > keen on paying mu
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The question that begs to be answered is how much did you charge him for the rod he caught the 400 lb tuna on? My guess is he's not going to be too keen on paying much more for one 12 months or so later.
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It’s only a big deal if it bothers you. Otherwise, go fish the you know what out of it and be happy.
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Considering you only mixed 3 cc and still quite a bit left over leads me to believe you didn’t put enough on. As others stated, I would try another coat and see how it looks. FTR, I *normally* mix 5 cc (of each part). This ensures I have enough to accomplish the job, and helps to ensure a more accurate mix.
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Plus 1 (or is it up to 2 now) on reverse pilot bits.
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I've never measured, but I'd guess I go probably about an 1/8th" past the end of the thread wrap. As the others have stated, it's very important to get a good seal on both ends of the wrap to avoid water seeping through .
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I’m with Ross. A thin coat of thread finish and it’ll be good as new.
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I have a tendency to over simplify things, but I don’t pay particular attention to the spacing. I just approximate and then do a static line test to dial in the spacing. I do spend a bit more time with the butt guide (Stripper for you fly guys?) on a spinning rod. I place great importance on getting the right height AND distance from the reel. Once I have that guide to my liking, the step downs a
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I would re-profile each end of the reel foot because that would be the easiest solution for me, but I don't have a lathe. If your solution is easier for you than grinding the reel foot a hair, then it looks like you have your answer.
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I use Glide floss for the pull string. Works great and no wax.
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I like CRB LZRs
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I never pull the tag end of the thread completely > through the wrap. I insert the tie off loop > earlier than most rod builders do. After inserting > the tag end into the tie off loop, I pull the loop > so it is tight against the wrap, and the tag end > will just about stand up. I then cut the
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Evan Cobb Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Same for me. I ended up clearing my browser > history and I haven’t gotten the error since. > > Follow up: didn’t fully fix the problem, just > got the error again for the first time in a couple > days. Try deleting the bookmark, google search the site, or re-type in the address and establish
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I pull the tag end until it’s almost even with the end of the wrap, cut it and then pull it on through. That way there’s no tag end sticking up from the wrap.
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Yes, on my laptop. I deleted the bookmark, typed in the address and established a new bookmark. That seemed to fix it.
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A month ago I could’ve given you a seat with a EVA hood. I pulled it off of a broken rod. But, I took the EVA off to replace with cork.
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