I concur with Joe. I've built 3 or 4 of those IS rods. CRB doesn't get a lot of love from the cork sniffing crowd, but they're solid, lightweight and perform very well.
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I use a spinning setup for those techniques. Baitcasters are overkill for those techniques, IMO.. But, as already stated, it's "your dream".
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CRB color series.
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david taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I grew up in Bronx, NY. It was "soda" from day one > for me. Pop was something you did to the person > who touched your soda. :-) > > Or what you called your father! I'm from (and live in Arkansas). We (well, I don't but...) give people "pop knots" for touching our Coke. lo
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I don't, but it's not an uncommon practice to cut down the length of a reel seat. You just have to be careful to leave enough thread to lock down the reel.
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Ernie Blum Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Daryl Ferguson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I imagine you're going to get a 50/50 mix of > > opinions. I build primarily for myself with a > few > > friends and family sprinkled in, and the > > occasional build or repair for strangers
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Aaron Petersen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I started with Pro-Kote from a MudHole kit. I used > it for a while and started using Flex Coat when I > got curious. I am currently working through some > Gen 4 that was tried out of the same curiosity. I > am satisfied with the results from all three. I > have applied all three with nylon br
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You've already been given good advice so I'll just add a tip for future. Everyone is different, but the way *I* insure I stay centered when reaming is I start with small reamer and ream both ends of the grip. Now, you don't to ream from both ends when you start getting close to having the grip fit where you want it, just when you first start reaming. This will get you started center and then afte
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If you search, you'll find a thread I started on my comparing methods to take an old reel seat off. I actually cut an old, busted rod down to about 12-15" just to make it easier to experiment with the different methods. Boiling water - That failed miserably. Now, I'm sure different epoxies will have a different setting point and I have no idea what epoxy was used as, again, this was an o
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I use Gen 4. It has a good pot life, dries extremely clear and bubbles are all but non-existent. It goes on great and there’s no need to use heat with it.
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The Fury series (I have one) has a CF (in looks only) wrap between the rear grip and the butt.
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Mudhole has them and they have a video on how to install them.
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Just an FYI, but I did this on my first rod build. I pondered about it and decided to leave it. Epoxy dries smooth as a baby's rear end. I've fished the you know what out of that rod with no ill effects. Naturally, I don't endorse the idea of putting epoxy on the guide eyelets, and I would never leave it if it were for a customer. But, again, there were no ill effects. I keep looking for grooves
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Another vote for better support.
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Yes you can. I use it on smaller guides (5 and under). Otherwise, I use tape.
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I imagine you're going to get a 50/50 mix of opinions. I build primarily for myself with a few friends and family sprinkled in, and the occasional build or repair for strangers (through my buddy's bait shop). I don't see the value in the mixers, but I don't have any issues with bubbles, or anything that could be caused by a poor mix. And, FTR, I do the same as you. I mix the epoxy and then poor i
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David, I know what it is, but I appreciate you repeating it for me. Oh, and my sincerest apologies to a couple of you. I didn’t realize I needed to post my resume, (retired IE/CPA/MBA, not that it should matter) or be an EE to post about a gadget that’s as simple as a light switch, but I appreciate you letting me know. I’ll make sure I refrain from posting about such complicated matters in the
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David, you can easily make your own controller, or buy one for $25 or so off of any number of suppliers. All you're doing is controlling the voltage to the motor, assuming it's a DC motor. If AC, then the controller controls the frequency. Get a VSD controller and it'll work on ac or dc motors.
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I have used it, but not for rod building. I don’t think it would do well for securing guides as it’s too brittle. I use Gen4 for thread finish.
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John, you articulated my feelings better than I could have on the matter. I wasn’t going to mention anything about why I don’t use them, but since you did, I’ll add my wholehearted 100% agreement with you. However, I know my acquaintance well enough to know he’s about as stubborn with his opinions as I am so I’ll just figure out how to deal with the insert.
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Thanks Norm. That would be my preference. Again, I don’t personally use exposed seats, but if I did, I wouldn’t put an insert under it.
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Never mind, I didn’t see the link before.
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Spencer, no one said it. The components for a build showed up at my door and there’s a seat and an insert. It doesn’t make any sense to me. Again, kind of defeats the purpose, IMO. But, I don’t use exposed seats on rods I build for myself. Thus, why I’m asking. Is this a common practice? Am I supposed to trim the insert to expose the blank? I don’t see that being very comfortable, however.
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I have never heard a single good thing about winn grips. An easy fix is heat shrink wraps. You can get them different colors and designs.
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What is the point if you have to use an insert in order for them to fit the blank? It seems to me that defeats the purpose. I don't use exposed reel seats as my belief is once the seat is epoxied to the blank, vibrations will resonate through the blank and on into the seat, and the grips for that matter. It just seems to me if I have to put an insert (carbon fiber) in between the blank and seat,
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I have the CRB RDS Wrapper. The thread comes off the spool and through the eyelet closest to the spool. Then it goes through the rod tensioner, than back down and through the next two eyelets. Hope that helps.
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I wouldn't be surprised if you can find chinese knockoffs on @#$%&, Amazon or Alibaba.
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Kevin, I’m not worried about my time on this one. He does a lot of stuff for me at no charge so I’m just doing it to reciprocate in kind. I showed him the build sheet today and he liked it so I reckon I’m set. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
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Re: Black Guide Foot Had I known for certain I was going to go with a non-preserver thread, I would have gone for the stainless in lieu of the black. The dark foot definitely detracts, IMO. Also, I'm intrigued with silver metallic suggestion. I think I may do a wrap on my practice blank to see how it looks.
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It’s Fuji Ultra Poly thread.
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