I'm just spit balling here, but if you have a reel spooling station, spool that thread onto an old, cheapy reel and then use the reel spool on your rod wrapper.
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Fatigue mitigation is my goal. Plenty of bass techniques are tiring enough by themselves, without the rod and reel adding to it. I use my spinning rigs for more than just finesse fishing. I use them for shallow cranks and jerkbaits among other techniques. I know I can get 95% to where I want to be because, if nothing else, I have my favorite spinning rod that I own to use as a guide. But, I'm hop
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Kevin Fiant Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @Daryl I probably didn’t word it well but was > looking to weed out the slow action noodles from > contention. Thanks all for the feedback Got it! I think the shooter I mentioned, or that SJ720 Thomas would fill the bill. The others mentioned may be fine as well, but I'm not familiar with them.
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Thanks Roger. I have a casting seat (aka butt pad) on the front deck that I use. As I stated earlier, I prefer a full rear grip (and I like cork) because I use both hands for any casting that requires a little distance. I'm going to play around with it and get to where I think it'll be most comfortable. I'll be sure and post where I end up with it.
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I'm confused. You said the gentleman is looking for a "non-noodle fast action rod". Then you ask / want data on noodle (slow action) rods. Did I misread something in your post(s)?
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Robert A. Guist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Brandon. > > One thing everyone forgets is to check for level > when on the dryer, if it is tip up or down you > will not get a level coat. > > Yes Brandon once you sand you need to brush with a > CLEAN BRUSH to get rid of the dust DO NOT use a > solvent, and it will come
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Check out the MHX 6’ Light Shooter.
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Thanks gentlemen! I’ll play around with it.
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Thanks Tom!
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There aren't any CRB blanks in the database that I could tell. I just looked, as I was also interested in the numbers on another blank.
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Francis Santangelo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Daryl Ferguson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I would personally go with 7’ ML paired with > a > > 3000 reel. You can literally do anything with > that > > setup. > > > Yes he has other rods for the “anything” set >
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I would personally go with 7’ ML paired with a 3000 reel. You can literally do anything with that setup.
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I like a full handle because I cast with both hands most of the time. I like cork so I don’t *think* I’m degrading the rod with unnecessary weight. So go with comfort and be merry?
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Ronald Atchley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ross Pearson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > This RodMaker Magazine video is worth a look - > > > > > > nnel=RodMakerMagazine. > > Thank you for the video link . I assume that was > Mr. Kirkman . I noticed three things he
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How do you go about determining where to put the handle and reel seat when building a rod? I'm specifically interested in bass rods. Is it personal preference, or do you trial fit the components for balance prior to cutting them down? From taking measurements of my production rods, it seems most handles fall into a range of 8-11 inches from the butt of the blank. My first rod build was a kit so t
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Daryl, yes, I currently use Flex Coat high build > Ultra V. I've used it on my last 5 builds and like > it a lot. Prior to switching to the Flex Coat I > was using U40 LS Supreme. Both their standard > build and their high build. It was the standard > build version of LS Supreme I referenced usi
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I can’t imagine it being noticeable in fishing conditions.
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I have not heard of that specifically, but plenty of folks remove the butt cap and handle, cut off the old reel seat, and then put a new reel seat that’s one or two sizes larger to fit over the butt of the blank, then just build up the arbors and epoxy it on. I’m curious where your balance point ended up in relation to the reel. Thanks!
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you even need a second coat. I currently use > high build formula wrap finish, so one coat is an > accepted practice with high build finish. But, > when I first started building rods I use a > standard build epoxy where in their instructions, > they suggested using two coats. Well, I have two
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I'm new too Ryan so wait for one of the experienced builders to confirm this, but when you decide to apply the epoxy finish make sure you have plenty of time to finish the job completely. I'm pretty certain I read that if you wait too long in between coats, the second coat won't bond (or, perhaps blend is the better term) with the first coat. In other words, don't put do your first coat and then
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Roger, I believe you're onto something there! Thank you!
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I’m not opposed to that Spencer, but I thought I read somewhere where sewing thread was not suitable for rod wrapping. However, I don’t recall where I read that, or the reason why.
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Thanks Michael and Les. I didn’t think about the buttons rubbing on the metal. I have some old rods that I stripped down to practice on so I’ll give a go at wrapping the metal thread on one of those first.
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If you still have blank packaging, carefully slip it back into the protective plastic sleeve to keep the dust off of it until you’re ready to apply the epoxy.
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Either will work fine. If it were me, I'd stick with the 3000 because they'll generally cast a little farther (and, you're already losing a bit with 6' rods). And when your grands get ready for a 7', you don't have to change reels.
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Thanks for the replies. That's nice looking Bob. I see what you mean with the black bands. I'm not doing any of that kind of work. Just wrapping guides.
Forum: rodboard

I’m about to start my second rod build. I have some gold wrapping thread, but it’s the metallic variety. I’ve read the metallic variety can be a little tricky to work with. Would it be advisable to avoid using it until I have a bit more experience? I’m just wrapping guides, no trim bands or fancy stuff. Thanks!
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There’s already a thread on this topic about half way down the page. It’ll have pretty much every opinion on every technique there is with regards to spine or no spine.
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Here's the proper procedure for getting rid of document wrinkles.
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Hi Mark, I'm new too and, as a new builder, I concur with Rick Handrick. I HIGHLY recommend hand wrapping first. Those videos (And, I've watched them all) make it seem like it's easy as changing socks. It's not! Don't get me wrong, it's not difficult. It's just that, if you're like me, you'll want to go slow at first and, if you make mistake here and there, it's easier to catch, and fix, by ha
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