Thanks Joel! I’ll take that under consideration. I wasn’t sure if I needed that long of a grip with a 7’0 rod, but am certainly open to the idea. I’ll check out those blanks too.
Forum: rodboard

If I can’t find one that’ll work without mods, I’ll go that route. Fenwick makes a rod that’s pretty much what I want. It’s their Elite Inshore casting rod. It’s a 7’0 heavy power, fast action and rated for 3/4 - 3 oz lures. Meets all the criteria and it’s only $170. I just want to build my own if I can.
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The length is the hangup. There are lots of options if I go to 90”, but that’s not practical for the intended use.
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I need a big swimbait / glide bait rod. Here are the parameters I'd like to stay within: Blank: - 6'6" to 7' - Heavy or X-heavy power - Fast Action - Lure rating up to at least 3 oz, preferably up 5 oz Components: - 9" full rear cork - 2" fore grip - Fuji K Frame guides (alconite inserts) - I *think* a 16 mm reel seat (the reel is a Shimano Cardiff 200A) And, I
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Spencer's nail polish suggestion would probably work too. You'll want to apply it with a toothpick, or a fine tip quill pen nib (if you have one), etc... Definitely wouldn't use the provided applicator. That'll just make a big mess.
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I'm assuming they're ridged due to being raw carbon?
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I agree with Phil. I also think you’ll avoid any potential, however slight it may be, flaking if you epoxy the whole circumference.
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I’d use a car paint scratch repair pen. I have a Rustoleum (spell?) gloss black pen I use on my car that works great. It fills through the clear coat and almost impossible to find once it dries. I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t fix your issue.
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Recently, my nephew sent me a picture of his new Fenwick “casting” rod. He was really proud. It took me 15 minutes to make him understand they sent him a spinning rod. Perhaps this pilgrim thinks he has a casting rod. Lol
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I would make tape book ends and apply the epoxy all the way around. That way you end up with a nice straight edge on both ends. Just make sure you peel the tape off before the epoxy starts to cure.
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The description says it’s sealed with laminate so I doubt epoxy finish is necessary, but it won’t hurt anything. I probably would if I were putting one on my rod.
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Chris Catignani Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Daryl Ferguson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Hi Ray, I told him about all the reviews. He > said > > he’ll probably just scrap it. > > Try what Roger suggested...just use electic tape. > This is how we mount spinning reels on Tennes
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My testing thus far on practice blanks: Fine sharpie marker: it’s so so on a unfinished graphite blank, you have to really really careful or it smears. Forget about on a painted blank. It smears way too easy. Gelly roll: I was skeptical, but it actually worked pretty darn good on the painted blank and really well on the unfinished graphite. I got some acrylic paint to try next, but I can
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Hi Ray, I told him about all the reviews. He said he’ll probably just scrap it.
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Michael, I understand what CCS is. My post was kind of a backdoor compliment to CCS. For clarification sake, yeah, a person can measure their favorite rod(s), but what good does it do when most manufacturers' rods/blanks don't have numbers to compare. What good that does that do me? I just recently called a manufacturer before my last build and asked if they had that kind of data on their blanks.
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I don't see any point to the CCS because those ratings are not reflected on rods. All you ever get is the typical medium, MH, etc... Those ratings are wildly inaccurate as the variances between two light, or medium, etc... rods are too great. I said it in another thread, but how is it that I can pick up two different rods from the same manufacturer, with the same rating, and each feels different
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Of course, we've all overlooked the obvious. The first thing you should do is call Mudhole. They'll be able to tell by looking at your order what sizes you need.
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Can you not build up an arbor to take up any slop in the butt cap?
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Buy a scale, then you won’t care how much a > penny weighs. They also come in handy for other > non-CCS things. > > Norm Yes, then you can be anal (as my wife calls me) and weigh every new lure that comes into the house. :)
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I prefer full cork on all rods. I cast two handed and the full grip gives me a bit more to grab onto. Plus, I like the way cork feels, it’s very comfortable.
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Granted, I've not been building rods very long, but I've never read or heard of anyone using thread finish for gluing reel seats or handles. For starters, thread finish is too expensive considering how much you would need for that purpose. Second, I envision it running all over the place before it cures, unless you plan to put the rod on the dryer. Personally, I like using ProPaste because it dri
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EI, it was more of a tongue in cheek comment as I got a chuckle out of the "most new rod builders are older" comment someone posted earlier in the thread.
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Hey Ryan, I’m ambidextrous, but I’m with you on trying to write left handed. Anything else I do feels natural with either hand, but I feel like I’m going to break my wrist anytime I write lefty. Lol
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I’ve decided I’m not going to mess it. Actually, it was my wife that pointed out the obvious. She asked me yesterday, as I was trying to source the hood with no luck, “Didn’t you want to build rods for fun? It doesn’t seem like you’re having much fun with this rod”. Exactly right! I stopped messing with it, replaced a couple of broken guides on another friend’s rod and I’m taking this one back an
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I learned something today, something I try to do every day. I learned, as a 58 year old new rod builder, I’m but a rod building data point that falls squarely within the bell curve.
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There doesn't seem to be a lot of info on the innerwebs. I ran across a Flex Coat video of a guy demoing how to use dipping pens and testers paint. That's nice and all, but is there any reason I couldn't just write with a fine point sharpie marker and epoxy over it?
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Yes Norman, that's the rod. I think you can buy one for $50-$60. A local professional rod builder quoted him more to fix it than the rod cost new and told him it wasn't worth fixing, in his opinion.
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I’m afraid I’m not very “techie”. I don’t know how to add the pic in my post. I can take a picture with my phone, upload it to my Amazon account and post a link? You might have to click a link to my Amazon photos to see it at that point. The reel seat (and hood) is clear. I can’t really even see how it was epoxied at the factory. I can’t see any thru the reel seat.
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I told him the same thing the pro rod builder told him, that the rod isn’t worth repairing. I was going to use the nut off of one my practice rods I acquired, but the Berkley seat is too small in diameter and the donor won’t fit. Honestly, I’m liking that band, or tape idea.
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The rod is a Berkley Lightning casting rod.
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