Thank you Michael for your input. If it comes down to taking the entire grip and handle off, I’ll likely take a pass. That’s too involved for my liking. I think I’ll just tell him I’d rather not mess with it. Like you said, I don’t have to be the community repair guy. I’m retired and just started building rods for my own purposes. I have no intention of turning it into a business.
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I know you're looking at the 6'0L version, but I took my IS701ML build fishing today and caught a 3.5 pounder on a ned rig. It performed flawlessly!
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I'm starting to realize it was probably a bad idea to tell anyone that I've gotten into rod building. As of this writing, I have 3 repair jobs and two rod builds on the bench. It's not my intention to get involved in builds or repairs, but I kind of got talked into it. Anyway, I'm a little over my head on one of the repair jobs. Two are simple guide replacements, but the third is a bit more invol
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I mix with a clear (not white) plastic butter knife. I find them easier to mix with than those little round lollipop stick looking things.
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Thanks for all the input everyone. I finished the rod today and it's on the dryer with first coat as I type. I ended up at 7.5" on the rear grip. I forgot to measure how much I cut, but I cut off probably at least a half inch of the reel seat, keeping enough for the nut to be able to loosen enough to receive the reel, of course. And, I installed it with the nut at the butt end of the rod.
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I used Flex Coat High Build for the first time earlier. I have mixed feelings about it. I like that it's thicker (than ProKote), but I think I prefer ProKote for the first coat. It's thinner and I feel like it might soak through the threads and fill up the tunnel a little easier. That said, I'm pretty certain I'm going to prefer the the Flex Coat for the second coat. I'll be building a 6' shooter
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Hi Lynn, I figured it out by process of elimination.
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The ProKote that came in the kit I bought were in pre-loaded 24 cc syringes. I don't care for those because that in and of itself can make mixing tricky. However, one tip I can give regarding the syringes is to draw the material up into the syringe a hair and then plunge what you need onto foil or cup, whatever. If you try to plunge the materials out without doing the slight draw, the material is
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> Daryl, your being able to see individual threads > in the wrap is the way nylon/poly appears. When > the wraps look more like paint or tape that's more > likely NCP thread. With it the individual threads > tend to appear blended together. So it's the thread that gives it that tape look, not the epoxy? As far as the UV business, I don't worry about it. My boat is stored i
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FTR I have a Favorite Whitebird that is wrapped with white thread and has regular clear epoxy (not the heat shrink looking stuff I mentioned earlier). It's so clear, you can count the number of wraps around the blank. I haven't noticed in yellowing, but I keep socks on all of my rods so that might be why.
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Mark Brassett Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I found out pretty quick that I can't build a rod > cheaper than I can get one from the fishing and > hunting stores. I think I can get what I want if > I build it myself. I've never spent more than $75 > on a rod before. Now I have at least that in > components and many rods with $200 just
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I used ProKote on my first rod a week or so ago. It was cured to the tacky state in about 10 hours or so and stayed tacky for around 24 hours, then it was dry to the touch. Just for comparison, I mixed 6 ccs (3 each). I read and watched videos on the topic ad nauseum before I started and the one common theme from all sources was "be very accurate with the measurements and mix thoroughly"
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The drone industry is just now catching on to something Harley Davidson, infamous for clinging on to 40s - 50s technology, has been using forever? There has to be some irony in that somewhere.
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Hi Sam, I highly doubt I'll ever get into the decorative stuff. I just want well built rods that I can't buy in a store for the price, and not have to compromise to do it. I don't even put the decals, or the hook keepers, on. I don't use the keepers on my off the shelf rods.
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Could be Lynn, it definitely does not look like a regular epoxied wrap. I'll try to look up a NCP thread pic to see if it's what I'm talking about.
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Is that the stuff manufacturers use? I have off the shelf rods that look more like the guides were shrink wrapped vs. epoxied.
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I’m not yet qualified enough to give you the technical advice you’re looking for. Besides, some smart folks have already addressed that aspect. I’m here to give the mental aspect. I’m very OCD. I’m OCD to the point my friends and family call me Melvin (Udall) whenever I get a little overboard with a seemingly minor thing. Example, every screw on every switch plate in our house is turned vertical.
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I have a Lews that I like a lot.
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I like the specs on that PB761MF, but my preference would be 7'0". Unless you're wanting more casting distance, I don't see a need for any rod to be over 7'0" - 7'3". That's just my personal preference. And, I like 3000 size reels. Again, just personal preference. They're a nice balance of keeping the weight down, but still bringing in 35 or so inches on average per turn. In lookin
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Francis Santangelo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Daryl Ferguson Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Look in the left hand column under sponsors. > It's > > the first link. There will be a link for "more > > info", or something to that effect in there. > > > Great th
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Look in the left hand column under sponsors. It's the first link. There will be a link for "more info", or something to that effect in there.
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Glad you guys are finding what works for you, And > that's what counts. > > As for me, I am pretty much opposite of what you > guys are doing. I started building, I tried to be > too perfect with the amount of finish I put on as > a first coat, and it caused me problems. The main > one
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Les Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IS661M: IP= 402 grams (average of 7 blanks): ERN = > 15.1; AA = 61 > > This is not the 701M, but I would guess it will be > a more powerful blank. My favorite spinning rod is an off the shelf (Lews). It'll be interesting to see if the IS701ML I'm getting ready to build is comparable my Lews. I'm
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Chuck Brezen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My biggest mistake I made when starting out was > putting on too much finish. It is always better > to put on 2 thin coats than to glop on one trying > to get it perfect. One added advantage of 2 coats > is if you have any blemishes or tags on > guides...etc, you can trim or file them off and
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Not much difference. In that case, I might bump up to the "M" for my uses. I'll be able to give a real world assessment as soon as I can get to the water without freezing my knickers off. It's 30 degrees and we've been dealing with an ice storm the last couple of days. Brrr.
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Rick Handrick Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I never really had issues with other epoxies - > it's just that Gen 4 is so repeatable, much less > sensitive to environmental factors, and a really > good fit for me in terms of pot life/workability. > It just works for me, and I have to think about it > much less than other epoxies I've used
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Hmmm, I'm gonna have to give this Gen 4 stuff a try if it's getting this kind of high praise. I used ProKote on my first rod build because that's what came in the rod building kit I purchased from Mud Hole. But, I only have about 5 ccs of each part left. It came in the 24cc syringes. I mixed more than I ended up needing. I put on two coats and just figured it was better to mix too much vs. not
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Francis Santangelo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is the IS601L too light for bass? Depends on the size bass you're catching. It's probably fine for most, but as I stated in my earlier post. If you get the IS701ML, it'll be the only spinning rod you need for bass fishing. It can pretty much do it all from finesse fishing to jerkbaits and shallow to mid
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Are you talking about the grip and / or reel seat? If so, you can buy arbors to take up the space, or you fabricate your own directly onto the blank using masking tape. I use the tape method.
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Kevin Fiant Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I added these additional blanks to the > database/spreadsheet. I assume you are talking > about the CRB color series correct? These blanks: > > od-blanks > > > jPBa-c5LT9RTYeDR_pnCDIkVIdDv0YoeQ/edit#gid=9884645 > 62 > > Also, note that you do not have to export > spr
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