There are some rough spots on the wraps, I'm assuming it's from some stray thread flares and my first attempt at an olive branch, the wraps done later after I got the feel for wrapping are much smoother - but I also glossed more epoxy on as I felt it tacking and rushed to make sure I got enough on. Cam I put a coat of Gen 4 over the flex coat? I want to see how that handles in comparison.
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That's aweome! I'd imagine standing in front of those blanks would be a little like being at a museum, I'd be a little afraid to touch... but I'd probably cross that red rope haha. Given the history of the hands that took part in building those blanks its like your time traveling and taking part in that history when you build on'em, must feel something spectacular with a finished rod off one of t
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I feel you on the desire to know where you stuff is coming from - and I don't just mean geographically but everything else that comes along with it. I respect your respect for those that paved the way and your attention to detail. I appreciate the time you spent gathering and sharing this information. Only makes me wonder more now where Kistler gets their blanks from. KENT what blanks do
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Really appreciate the feedback yall. I've seen some dudes, and some people that appear to be well respected in the rod building community recommend using a small metal spatula to mix and apply - Maybe I'll give that a go as well as I bought a small nail care set at the dollar tree for the cuticle scissors and spatula like tool that came with it. So it would be better for me to turn the rod by
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I used the flex coat wrap epoxy that comes in their kit and by the last 2 guides it was hard to get it to settle right. By the last guide it was tugging on my brush bristles. I held the syringes with part A and B for a while to warm them up, measured 3 Cc each, stirred for about 5 min. I put the epoxy on while it was spinning in my batson dryer - should I just turn by hand instead? I think th
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Man I'm diggin the history lesson, got me curious to learn more. How'd you find all that info?
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Okay cool, should I expect to remove paint? And in the video I thought you mentioned it being ultra fine so I set out for that exactly and found the 7445 to be the ultra finest, but if its any scotch brite then even better - I'll grab an actual scotch brite vs something from China saying it's scotch brite. Thanks tom!
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After watching rod maker magazine video on blank prep I ordered some scotch brite 7445 at Tom's advice. I'm hoping it's actually the real stuff because showed up just in a plastic bag with a barcode that said scotch brite . My question is - do I prep painted blanks the same way? As unpainted? What about those blanks with ridges?
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@NORMAN thanks for the data, confirms that I was fooled by the chart and ended up with a blank I don't really want. Would you happen to have any TNF data between the two? I'd like to find a decently MH moderate fast rod - and Would consider another NFC blank, but I'm a little gun shy now. An MB fast vs a SJ fast vs a CB fast are all so different its a shame nobody is using CCS data instead
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Oh boy, was it a more expensive blank than you'd expect that to happen on?
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@DEAN the NFC site shows and describes the 808 NEO with 3 distinct tapers/bend profiles - how is the taper/bend profile(s) with the 765 NEO?
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Thanks for the in depth info! They certainly seem like good people, and I wish I coulda got my hands on those top quality builds. I've also got some homwork to do becuase KENT mentioned a few companies and people I've never heard of before. Now I want an Airrus rod with a megaphone grip though haha I'll be honest, I just saw half off at Kistler but when I saw the priced out component option
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So I was duped to some degree by the pics on the NFC site, I would've probably picked a different rod had I noticed they just put different weights on them and made the bend profile look different. Too late Now I suppose, maybe I'll hit them up and see if I can change it since it hasn't been processed yet. Thanks for the write up and explaining your approach to blank choice - definitely makes
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All of the above certainly seem to contribute to that cost difference, but I would advise you to consider the law of diminishing returns. There is certainly some noticeable quality differences between a $50 blank and a $250 blank, but between a $250 blank and a $400 blank the differences will be significantly less discernible to most of our senses if at all in some cases. In most cases anyway, un
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Hey Kevin, welcome to the site and the world of building. I just started building myself, but with no shortage of research, reading, youtubing, and fishing to come along with me. Funny you and I were already looking at a number of the same rods. Chatterbait - I was inches away from getting the NEO myself for chatterbait/small swimbaits, but I realized I had other rod needs that had to come fir
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Leslie Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That sudden > shock/breakage can also happen when backlashing > the cast of a large and expensive glide bait, > launching the lure out > into the lake trebuchet style. Great for sieging a > castle > > Thanks, gentlemen. Yup,
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I know in the past Kistler used NFC blanks, can anybody share their experience/data with the new Kistler rods/blanks?
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I read somewhere that the SM version and HM version of the same spec rod that the SM will be softer. I was looking to get something like a moderate fast so I compared a bunch of rods and saw the MB705 HM looked relatively fast and the SM version of the same rod looked slower, so I grabbed the SM. But considering another purchase and comparing what I just bought to other blanks to balance my setup
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SO would I be able to use spray insulation foam the same way? Could I fill a reel seat to create a perfect fit foam arbor?
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Thanks for the feedback and the tips and the youtube link yall! @LESLIE I think your right about the pinching and pulling back the natural twist of the thread - that makes the most sense because I was rolling it off like a casting reel onto the blank. I also watched a video of Bob Taylor hand wrapping and holding the spool and I caught a little twist in his line - less pronounced because it wa
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > They won't compress unless it's a very low density > foam. I have no idea what density CFS uses but the > ones I make from 8lb foam need to be reamed to > very close fit. They're certainly more rigid than > cork which is the secret to their "magic." > > ............. Hey Tom,
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@MICHAEL - thanks! I got the deluxe start up kit from getbit and it came with the Batson hand wrapper - which I can now see in person seems significantly less quality and a lot less intricate than the CRB hand wrapper. I only went with the get bit kit instead of the mud hole kit because of the dream reamers that get bit came with vs the non-chuckable reamers in the mud hole kit. Live and learn I
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7 - whole lotta twist at the end
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6 - starting to get that twist
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Maybe I was just faster than the server… 5
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4 - the Gray is size D and the purple seems thinner than A - which is the orange
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Im trying to post multiple pics, but it only lets me do one at a time. My third one won’t upload at all.
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I’m working on my very first build - a cheap kit that had everything for 20 bucks. I decided to see what some different techniques felt like adding some flare to the wraps. Single/double inlay wasn’t too bad, spiral inlay with size D and smaller than A felt alright, spiral with A and smaller than A was tough - plus at that time I decided to give hand tensioning the thread which worked better in o
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I finally got my first wraps done - you guys were definitely right about size A thread - it's definitely starting on hard mode, I think the metallic is got was even thinner. Wrapping is a dance huh, gotta pay attention and tune in or you're gonna step on toes haha. I even tried to throw in a couple inlays and a ln olive branch just to see what it feels like. But overall it did feel good, just see
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