My new Angler's Warehouse catalog came today and I was looking thru the handle section and I have a question. There were rear grips for spinning reels shown with a burl type/rubberized cork butt end. How are these installed? Is there a countersink in the rubberized butt that slips over the tenion on the end of the cork handle after it's installed onto the blank? Sorry for a dumb question but I
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My reasoning for checking my Lamiglas was I was suspicous of it's "rating" because the overall weight and butt diameter were considerably less than the mfg specs ndicated. And after finding out it's true rating was 3/64 - 1/8 oz instead of the 1/4 - 1/2 oz it was suppose to be, I would have really been upset had I put $200 worth of titanium guides and select cork grips and a nice reel
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Spencer - the Talon had about a 65 degree AA and the Lamiglas was a bit less at 62 degrees.
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Thanks Tom. I went back through the CCS article and under the additional info section for CCS tips, I found where you need to find both the high point and the low point of the blank and take 1/2 of the distance from the total deflection. So I found the high and low point of each of the three peices, aligned them together and found a difference of 1 5/8" difference between the two. So I rota
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While waiting for my 13' Lamiglas Certified Pro blank to arrive, I picked up a 13' Talon ITM as well. My thinking was to use the Talon (4-8 line, 1/8 - 1/4 oz)) for Steelhead and the Lamiglas (6-10 line, 1/4 - 1/2 oz) for Light Salmon. After receiving the Lamiglas, it's butt diameter and weight appeared to be that of the smaller weight Lamiglas also offers but their customer service told me th
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Here it is John -
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Fuji has a BGC8512C handle that mates with their IPSM model reel seats. Can the "scarf" that fits the seat on this handle be easily duplicated? Thanks.
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The Fuji HKM folding hookkeepers look neat but do they work ok or not? I've always used the traditional U-shaped but these folding type look kinda neat if they don't flop around or catch on things. Thanks.
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A while back I asked about using a 4"-5" rear grip and an 7"or so foregrip on a float rod and the censensus was I should use an 8"-9" rear grip and would regret building it any shorter. Then I read a post from Chris Karp who uses a 4"-5" rear grip even on long rods and added the distance from his fore finger knuckle to his elbow is 16". Mine is the same
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Thanks Jeff, that was well put.
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Mike - the 4" spacing was in reference if the intersect guide was 12" from the tip, one may only put 2 guides in between - roughly 4" apart. Would you ever put just one or maybe 3-4 guides in that 12" space? Steve - the reference to "Recomendations Only" is from Fuji on the Angler's Resource site. Seems like we're confusing that with Tom's library edition of the
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After I took a beating for insinuating people bashing Fuji wanting to sell more guides in my “Hypocrite“ posting, I still feel there is something wrong in the statements concerning what the New Guide Concept primer will or won’t do or else I‘m the dumbest guy on this forum. In that post Mike Barkley responded: “The fault with the Fuji system (not the guides) is that it defeats the
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That fish may have been related to Rich's crappie..... A crappie I caught the other day was wondering about my guide spacing. He actually criticized my butt guide placement, saying “ it was clearly too close to the foregrip”. I ate him. - Rich Handrick
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Everytime I see posts about the New Guide Concept primer in the librayy I just shake my head. Everyone wants to bash Fuji for wanting to sell more guides in their Concept System but those that advocate the primer version will say just buy extra guides so you'll have the right sizes. Seems the extra guides Fuji advocates are the smaller and cheaper running guides whereas our experts here want us
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When I first started following this site, guides were generally placed on the effective spine side of a blank or OSCAR. Some even advocated ISCAR. Now there seems to be an accepted transition to go with the straight axis of the blank - placing guides on the "droop down" side. The 3rd rod I ever build was a GLX 3wt and I put the guides on the factory marks which I found the effective spi
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Thanks Tom, "roller coaster" action is exactly what I had on my mind but all I could think could think of was "bio-rhythm" and didn't think that would fly very far. Thanks again.
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A custom rodbuilder friend has given me a different idea for a handle design on how he builds float rods. He takes a Fuji IPSM-16 reel seat and the Fuji BGS8512C contoured grip and mounts it backwards (handle towards the tip). He adds a short rear grip flush with the butt. Then he uses some scrap pieces of blank and makes a short 4"-5" and a longer 8"-9" removable rear grip th
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I'm getting ready to set up my static test guide placement on a 13' Talon blank for Steelhead and a bit heavier 13' Lamiglas for Salmon using the same Islander Steelheader centerpin for both. I'll use 7mm Fuji TLSG running guides on both rods, the heavier TYSG guides on the Lami and the lighter TATSG guides on the Talon. I plan to start with the guide spacings that Scott Hovanic supplied me
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Thanks for all the help to my previous question guys. Mybe I didn't explain myself correctly so I'll try to a better job. If at all possible I still don't want to add lead in the butt if I don't have to. It seems all float rods have somewhere between a 20"-22" overall grip length. If I keep the reel closer to the butt end with a shorter 4" rear grip and use a single cork ri
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Thanks Paul for explaining it that way - and to Joe for reminding me "function over looks" - duh. Paul - with a 8"-9" rear grip on a 13' float rod, what is the length of your foregrip ahead of the reelseat?? Thanks. Tim
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Danny, I wasn't giving a smart guy comment, but to say "to do a split grip is just stupid" seems like one. The factory specs on a 13' Talon ITM is 3.1 ozs, mine happens to check in at 2.8 ozs so I'd like to build it without adding weight in the butt end. I plan to use Fuji TASG and TLSG guides to keep weight at a minimum. I built a GLoomis 11' 6" GLX 8/9wt a few years back an
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Thanks Danny but I do not want to add any pencil lead to balance this rod. If I have to, I'll put the reel seat up against the figthing butt, put the rear grip "in front" of the reel seat, and put the full wells (foregrip) where ever it needs to be to balance it. Adding pencil weight would defeat the purpose of having a lightweight setup. Thanks.
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I've seen several illustrations of factory floats rods to get an idea about the handle design. Besides an 18" one piece cork with sliding rings (which I do not like), most of them have about a 7"-8" lower grip, a reel seat, and a 7"-8" foregrip or something to that affect. Once I establish a guide layout on this Talon 13' 3-piece blank, I plan to wrap and finish the u
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Before long I'll be wrapping a 13' float rod with Fuji TASG and TLSG guides. At a fly fish expo this spring I saw a GLoomis and a St Croix (I think) float rods and recall the first guide on one of those rods was about 3"-3 1/2" or so and the first couple of guides seemed bunched up near the upper section. Is this normal for float rods? I would think the normal procedure would be to s
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I exchanged emails with Rick on another forum recently and sent him a MO for a Talon blank. No blank shipped and he hasn't answered any emails in the past two weeks. Anyone know if his computer crashed, if he got sick, or is in the hospital or something like that? Thanks.
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I had the same dilema with a solid EVA cap ring. I took a piece of antenna tubing that was 1/4" in diameter and "burned" a hole in the middle with my drill press (Tom's suggestion) and saved the plug that was left over. My brother in law tapped a 1/4" thread into one end of my mandrel. I bored out my cork rings, slid them onto the mandel up against a stop collar, and bolte
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I've browsed through just about all of them but don't see anyone carrying the Talon ITM blanks. Are they under a different manufacture? Thanks.
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I used the #441 as a trim band sandwitched between a silver metalic trim band and #720 gray all without cp on a GLoomis GLX charcoal blank - looked great. I would have used #441 on my St Croix rebuild but the local store was out of it - try a test spot on your blank where your grip or reel seat will go. I didn't have any hue problems with mine, I thought it looked nicer than plain ole black th
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Hi Richard, Don's article on Equal-Angle guide placement appeared in Rodmaker Volume 4, Issue #6. I'm packing and leaving for a trip right now as I'm typing this and the info is a bit lengthy to explain properly. Your email address is hidden so if you shoot me an email, I'll send you the majority of the article when I get back.
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Those western streams have a pretty good current flow - makes a small fish fight bigger than they really are. I would think a 6wt would be a bit more appropriate in those waters.
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