I was thinking of trying some Power Pro braid just to see how it casts but I saw a recent post that suggested braided line tangles with sf guides. Is this common and what guides could be used that doesn't cause braid to tangle? Thanks.
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Patrick, I let Paul Rotkis talk me into using a #8 Recoil sf spinning guide as my tip top along with the same #8 Recoils as running guides on my 13' Talon float rod - and I'm glad I did. When I placed my order, I ordered Recoil's ultralight fly tip top just in case and but didn't really like it. Although the Recoil looks different on the top, with all #8 sf on the top 6-7 feet of this rod, the
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Thanks Tom, I'll give it a try on my next project.
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I'm able to tweak my guides now - I just don't put a lot of tension on the locking wraps (like I used to).
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Steve, is every one of your turns each 180 degrees? Thanks.
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Hi Tom, in one of your recent posts (plus several others) you refer to applying finish as loading up the brush, lowering it down to the wrap, and then rotating the rod one revolution. "Load your brush with epoxy, and then lower it to the wrap, with the edge of the brush just a little beyond the edge of the thread wrap. Now rotate the rod under the brush one complete revolution. That will
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Thanks for the response Paul, but after rereading my post, I realized the snakes I took off weren't TiCH coated after all, they were plain ole' chrome ones. With all of the hype of ceramics over snakes, I thought it would be a step up. I don't know if it changed the action or not - it's a bit difficult when you're only using it to chuck n' duck over gravel beds swinging an egg pattern to holding
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Two years ago I stripped the TiCH coated snake guides off my GLX Salmon rod and rewrapped with the Batson LTCVSCG guides (TiCH coated VS type with Zirconium ring) but didn't get to fish with it until recently this past fall. I was using a new spool of shooting line and noticed how noisy the rings sounded when stripping the line back in after my drifts. I'm sure it had nothing to do with Batson bu
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Well the room I apply finish is in the upper story of a tri-level which is always slightly higher than the rest of the house and is exacly 73.4 degrees right now - temp should have been the same when I applied finish earlier today. And my bottles of Threadmaster sat in hot water for about 10 minutes before I mixed the finish - it must be me. I'll try to find a glass ashtray or plate so I can try
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I'm on my second batch of Threadmaster and still have trouble with bubbles in the finish at times. I used to use Flex Coat Lite and after mixing, I'd pour it out onto the foil and shortly afterwards the bubbles would all burst at once as if on cue. I can't get the Threadmaster to do that even with warming the bottles first. After my rod has been turning for a while though, I'll come back and
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It seems that the color on these blanks tend to change somewhat based on the lighting available - incandescent, florescent, sunshine, etc. I used Gudebrod Blue Dun without CP and it blended in pretty good with the blank.
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I'm not sure what I should be doing in order to see this new tutoral. I was able to see the pictures you emailed me previously but I have to assume that trims bands wrapped this way are intended to be used when CP is applied to the wraps. What can one do if they don't use CP but would use NCP thread for the trim bands but don't wish to see the tag ends under the non-CP coated regular thread wraps
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Fuji EWBC-21 as shown from Angler's Resouce. I may have gotten mine from Mudhole.
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Thanks Ray, I don't see an IST1021F listed in the new catalog, only the HS1021F. Is the IST1021F a previous model?
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My wife used a Rainshadow IP904 rod for Salmon this past fall - 8-17 pound line, 1/4 to 3/oz lure weight. She liked the rod but not the grip. I would like to build another Steelhead/Salmon rod for her with the grip she prefers. The IST1024F is an 8-12 pound line, 3/8 to 3/4 oz and the IST1025F is 10-17 line with a 3/8 - 1 oz lure weight. I would think either rod would work especially since Salm
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Thanks C. Royce, that will work just fine.
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I use to use hot melt but while Salmon fishing this fall, I looked up at my rod tip and saw it facing 90 degrees to the side. Although it survived the rest of the trip I expoxied it in place when I got home.
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I have some aluminum items that I would like them resemble as being anodized black. I don't know how well a black Sharpie or set in hot water with Ritz dye would work but if there's an expert out there that knows of an inexpensive way to get something to adhere to aluminum, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
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With my fly rods, I have to move the rod a bit faster when casting a faster action rod than one with a more slower moderate action. But in spinning rods of the same length and line/lure weight, wouldn't I have to exert a more crisp cast with a faster action rod to cast the same 3/8oz lure than I would if I were casting a much slower action? Seems like the more moderate action would load fur
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I used to use the Flex Coat brushes but found them to be too limp to move finish around with. Someone on this site said to try the Plaid (brand) Shader brushes in the craft section at Walmart. They're firmer, come in all sizes, reasonably inexpensive, and provide the best application I've tried with a brush. And I just clean them with Acetone and they're ready for the next job.
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The reels are Daiwa Prodigy which is made exclusively for Cabelas. They are basically a Daiwa Capricorn with one extra ball bearing. The 2500 has a 4.8:1 gear ratio and the 4500 is a 4.9:1. I probably couldn't tell the difference in the gear ratios but my main thinking is along the lines of a small pully having more power but less speed compared to a larger pulley with less power but more speed
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I have two spinning reels of the same make and model, one's just bigger than the other. The larger reel has a 62mm diameter front spool lip, the smaller reel is about 38mm. The larger reel has a longer radius crank but with it's larger spool diameter it also retrieves more line per revolution. So if fighting the same fish with each reel, which would require "less effort" to retrieve l
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I'm getting ready to build a Forecast 7 1/2' 4wt for my grandson. Since it is a 4 piece blank there are 3 wrapped ferrules to deal with. I'm not a fan of putting a guide on top of the ferrule ( too convenient as a lever when tightening/loosening sections ) and prefer to move guides onto the next section just underneath the ferrule end. If I measure 1" in front and 1" behind the ferru
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Other than height, is the main difference between these two types Alconite versus Hardloy rings? Thanks.
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Just wondering what the plate type reelseats are used for - super heavy duty fishing? Thanks.
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I want to permantly attach a Fastex D-ring to the upper portion of a Fuji reel seat. ( I currently have it attached via Velcro and when a Salmon hits, my brother attaches a snap hook to it that runs from a 1" nylon strap around his shoulders to aid in landing the fish). I'm thinking of sanding the bottom edge of the D-ring so it will fit that rounded portion of the reel seat, epoxy it into p
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Thanks Doug, 47.6mm then. Seems like it should take a 25mm butt guide instead of a 20mm.
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I've decided on a Daiwa 2500 series spinning reel for my next project ( Laguna, Capricorn, etc.) and was going to order guides before I pick up the reel. Does anyone know the spool diameter on these reels? Thanks.
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Actually these are one piece spinning blanks. The IP965 is an 8' long 10 - 20 pound line, the IP904 is a 7'6" long 8 - 17 pound line. I think the 4 & 5 are the power ratings - great blanks.
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Just had to post this - I built a Salmon rod for my brother this summer on a Rainshadow IP965 blank - as was suggested by Karry at Batsons. I secured a D-ring with velcro around the NPS reelseat so he can attached the simple shoulder harness to it that I made him when fighting a Salmon. And when Custom Tackle had those blanks on sale, I picked up the Rainshadow IP904 also since shipping wouldn't
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