I do things in a stupid way - but I like the way the rod handles when fighting a fish. I mark the inside curve of the bent section which is opposite of some sort of "ghost spine". Then I find the straightest axis of the "drooped down" side of the section. A lot of times these two marks are 180 degrees apart. But then I assemble the sections, aligning the common droop down
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Tom, I was going back over this Rodmaker issue and found that beautiful wrap of your Surf Rod on page 21. Is this technique basically an extention of the "Narrow Trim Bands and Thread Inlays" article from Volume 6, Issue #1 or is this a completely different style of wrapping? My first thoughts are how many tag ends are there to be trimmed off - that's where I always have to trim the b
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Steve, why is that the most important thing - and are you saying - right on it, just in front of it, or just underneath it on the next section? I've got 6 or so factory built rods and a dozen or so more that I built myself. The only rods with a guide "close to the female ferrule" are a couple that I built myself based on the recommendations of this forum. The factory rod companies mu
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Here Dan, read this past thread of mine. It left me even more confused after I read the responses!
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I'm getting ready to static test my 13' Talon float blank but should I do it before or after I install my handle? My concern is it takes up 20 1/2" of the blank and I'm thinking this somewhat "stiffens" the butt section a bit .....? I must be putting too much effort in my testing as I still struggle flexing the blank 1/4, then 1/2, etc., plus trying to understand what good lines
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It's the IPSM (standard model) or the IPSD (deluxe model). The standard model comes with a frosted silver, gold, gunsmoke, or black ring, the deluxe is in frosted silver and gold only. I don't know the difference except the deluxe may have the gold lettering on the underside of the reelseat. I got mine and the Fuji countoured grip from Colleen at Acid-Rod.com - sponsor on the left. Just tell he
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Thanks Billy, I just like the looks of Chestnut on the Lamiglas blank both with and without the CP - each one looks great. Without CP the Chestnut blends right in with blank, but with CP and a gold trim ring the Chestnut really gives it a rich look against the blank. I might even do something stupid like no CP on the guide wraps and then use CP on the ferrules and the trim bands around the logo
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I just made a couple test wraps of Gudebrod chestnut on the butt section of my Lamiglas Certified Pro. I believe the factory models do not use CP when the chestnut looked so good on the translucent brown blank, I put CP on one wrap, left the other without. The wrap without CP blends in beautifully with the blank but the chestnut with CP looks great also - not sure which way I like best. Other
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I'm sure others will chime in but Tom gave me a great tip on applying cp - (which I don't normally use). He said to sort put alot on with a spatula, let it roll around on the wrap while turning the rod, and then wick the excess off the bottom exactly like when using epoxy. I believe he said if you use a brush to apply, that is what intriduces air bubbles into it. Plus I always had trouble with
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That wouldn't be our governmental employees would it?
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There seems to be two schools of thought on whether to place a guide on a ferrule. I relalize it can reduce the number of wraps and overall weight but I'm having a hard time believing which way is best. On heavier rods used for Salmon, etc., I would prefer to wrap the ferrule end 1 1/2 times it's diameter plus add an additional narrow band over where the male section ends inside that ferrule -
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Try looking here:
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Paul, the reel seat is the Fuji IPSM and the grip is the matching Fuji BGC8512C. Don't confuse it with the S16HKC "handle kit" which has a threaded hood that goes into a small cork foregrip - the IPSM has it's owm locking ring. I can't take any credit for idea, it came from Cedric Knuckey of Alaska Interior Custom Rods out of Inger Grove, Minnesota. He spends a lot of time Steelhead
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Thanks for the help Tom - you seem to know everything. I changed the image setting on my camera from 5 million megapixels to "email" and it loaded perfectly. Here's my hadle grip!
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I can do a lot of different things but having some computor skills ain't one of them. I can download pictures and email them but I cannot figure out how to change my picture size and format so that I can upload pictures onto RBO. I currently have JPG files at a 2592 x 1944 size. I need to get to JPEG and about 800 x 800. Any help would be appreciated!
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Thanks Mike, I think I've done it correctly. If not: graystroke77@yahoo.com
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I received a lot of help from this board on how to build my float rod grip - mainly the length of the rear grip. Then I emailed a rod builder from Minnesota that I've come to know for some time and being a Steelheader and Salmon angler , he suggested taking a Fuji IPSM16 reel seat and a BG525C contoured rear grip and mounting it 'backwards" as a foregrip with the reel seat used in the uploc
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I uploaded a photo a few hours ago and it hasn't shown up yet. How long does it usually take? Thanks.
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I suppose someone who has built a couple hunderd rods or so can tell by "feel" - to me they all feel good. In my limeted experiance I can't tell if it will do what I want until I'm able place some sort of "comparitable value or strength rating" to it. I'd really be upset if I put $100 worth of lightweight titanium guides and another $60 in cork and a reel seat to find out lat
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When I looked at the rods I've built with the ready made grips, (and my factory built rods) I remember how perfect the grips looked when new. However, after using and getting the grips wet, the "fillings" have fallen out leaving the original voids in the cork. Actually they seem to give the grips a bit of character. I've only "reshaped" ready made grips (other than using Andy'
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Hi Rolly, I see you add "Rovic Custom Rods" at the bottom of your posts but I can't find it on the web. Do you have a website? Thanks.
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Thanks for the post Rolly. Actually yes it was in response to me having both a 13' Talon for Steelhead and a bit heavier 13" Lamiglas Certified Pro for light Salmon. The Lamiglas didn't look as strout as I thought it should so so I compared the ERN (or "backbone") on both and found the lighter weight Talon to have a bit higher relative power than the Lamiglas. Lamiglas allowed me
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One of the earlier rods I built was a Sage SP 8'9" 5 wt and actually did a decent job with minimum epoxy on the wraps. But I was never able to cast it very well and contributed it to my poor casting skills. I took it fishing last week and from my boat, could not get the line to roll out - the last 10' or stayed crumpled up and just piled up onto the water. Got mad and switched over to my sp
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Thanks Jerry, but I found out from PacBay that the particular dealer I was referring to does have a special contract with PacBay for these special colored guide rings. But he limited to certain size s that doesn't work well for my float rod.
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On American Tackle's Titan GNIA guides with the gold rings, are the frames more of a black fininsh or the usual medium grayish titanium color? I can't really tell in some of the photos. Thanks.
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Thanks Danny, since I'm actually building two float rods and I think I'll go with the Recoil spinning guides on my Talon. I'm a bit nervous having all size 8 spinning guides the length of the tip section plus using one for the tip as well. I assume I could use the Recoil 8L guides instead with the same results - they just wouldn't be sitting that far off the blank. Thanks again.
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Dan, I've been thinking about using Recoils and this looks like a good opportunity to do so. So you used the Recoil RSPG spinning guides from 8 - 20 and then either a RSF or RSFX in size 6 for your tip? Does that save more weight than using the RTTUL tip top? And there's no sharp line drop between the first #8 RSPG guide and the RSF used as a tip top? Thanks.
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The light just went on.......I was thinking I needed at least a 25mm (maybe even a 30mm) butt guide because my centerpin is larger than my spinning reels. Since there's no "cone or funnel" made with a centerpin, I see why a 20mm works fine - duh. Thanks guys.
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I've gotton several opinions for guide sizes and spacings for my 113' float rod and I'm still struggling with the lower end. Since I have a half dozen Fuji TLSG 6mm and a matching tip top that I'd like to use. My problem is trying to understand how the lower half should really look. I'd like to use the new Fuji TATSG on the lower end and it has been suggested to go with 8-10-12-16-20-25>
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I probably didn't explain my previous question very well. Here is a picture of a rear grip with the rubberized butt that appears to already be turned down to size. Is this butt end loose and gets glued into place after the grip is installed? I'm just wondering if there a tenion on one of them or if it's just held in place by glued butt joint? Thanks.
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