Thanks Ralph, that's exactly what I did - static test on the tip section, concept primer on the butt section. So back to my original question, with such a slow action I'm able to spread out the upper guides with the staic test whereas is it conceivable that I may wind up with only 9-10 guides on this 11' 6" noodle rod? Just looking for confirmation that I'm heading in the right direction.
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I know the traditional number of guides is rod length plus one but does that still hold true on a slooooww action noodle rod? During the static test I've spaced them out a bit more than usual and was wondering if I'd do it any harm by only having 9 - 10 guides on a 11' 6" noodle rod? Thanks.
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I have a 11' 6" noodle rod blank and I assume most of them are built as a spinning rod. Just wondering what size reel I should be looking at to match it with - 1000 series, 2500 serries , - a 4000 series seems a bit too large in my mind. Thanks.
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I need a noodle rod like I need another hole in my head but I got it so cheap, I thought what the heck. It's a GLoomis 2 piece N1382 4" line in a sloooow action. I plan to just use some left over single foot snake guides with a couple Recoil single foot spinning guides as strippers to keep weight down. An online picture of the factory model shows about an 8" rear grip, Fuji type reel
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Rather than tie up this board, can someone with foat fishing experience answer a few questions for me on how exactly to set up my rig under the float? I've asked this on a few other dedicated forums and they answer back with everything except what I asked. If someone could answer a few simple questions I would appreciate it. Just click on my name for my email address or copy and paste this one be
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After first tying the over knot, when the loop is brought over the hook or swivel, when tightened does the bottom of that loop rest on the underside of the hook shank or does it cinch up around the leader section? (Hope I've explained it).
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I normally use 2' - 3' of 8# flurocarbon for tippet between the swivel and hook when Salmon fishing. Would 4' - 5' of flurocarbon tippet be slightly stronger (elasticity-wise) than perhaps 2' - 3' - or is 4# really just 4#? Since going to a "grip knot", my tippet survival has really improved and I'd like to try lighter lines. Thanks.
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Here's my photo of the way I built the handle. I'll send more of the finished rod to you.
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Thanks Paul, actually that was the reasoning for using the Fuji IPSM reelseat and fitted handle in reverse - it allows me to slide my hand down easily and use my pinky to brake the spool's rim. However, when you get a fresh 20+ pound King in heavy current on the Big Manistee here in Michigan, sometimes I need someone to hold onto to me by my wader belt until it tires out ! But I'll see how mu
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On a fly or spinning reel, I usually set the drag initially so that a Steelhead or Salmon can take off first and then I adjust from there. But with having to use your hand to palm the side of a centerpin reel for the drag, would you want to sort of "high stick" a 12' - 13' float rod at the beginning of a strike to absorb and reduce some of the shock on the tippit? I can see me losing
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I've completed both float rods and each has a butt cap made from 2 rubberized cork rings that slips over the cork tenion at the bottom of the rear grip. I'd like to use an adhesive that will allow me to remove the butt cap later without tearing it up. I want to fish with them first and decide whether or not I want to add some lead in the butt for better balance. I thought about using rubber cem
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Hi Paul, both rods are done - the 13' Talon built with Recoil RSPG spinning guides and yes . . . I used a #8 for a tip top and it came out looking great. (I ordered the lightweight fly top just in case but didn't like it). My 12' Lamiglas is ready to see action for Salmon in about two weeks. I built that one with Fuji SIC titaniums. I used the same handle concept on both - can't wait to fish th
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From what I can understand, a float rod and drift rod are basically the same thing (I think). But what is the major differences between a float rod and a noodle rod? From what I've read the noodle rod is a much lighter power rod with a moderate to slow action to allow catching large fish on light line. I was criticized by a rodbuilder on this site for stating "overplaying a fish on light
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Don't forget to order two sets of decals - that way you'll be ready to put on the second one after you've messed up the first !
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Sam - when you hook it into the stripping guide, are you hooking it into the ceramic ring or around the metal legs of the guide?
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Mike & Fred - what in the heck is a false wrap?
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All of the factory rods that I recall had the U-shaped hookkeeper attached with two separate wraps and the blank was void of finished in the middle section - and I have always made mine the same way. However, my Sage RPLXi that was built for me by a custom rodbuilder, has finish on the entire length of the hookkeeper, including the blank area underneath the U section. Actually it really looks ni
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I've been going over the recent posts on applying finish but either I'm blind or am just plain missing something. The trend seems to suggest ( in posts and RodMaker mag) applying finish "quickly". Quickly seems to be my problem. I rarely use CP, and when I do it's mainly on the ferrule wraps to give the rod a different look. I can apply finish over CP rather "quickly and easi
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Hi Lou, interesting response on the "Not using heat on epoxy" posting. (tried to send email but got a send failure). When you apply finish sparingly and quickly, is your blank spinning or stationary? Although I've gone to a spatula, I apply finish much like spreading butter on toast - rotate the rod by hand, smear the finish on, warm it up with a lamp, wick off excess at bottom after
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How do you guys that don't use heat get "two thin coats" ? When I use to pour out Flex Coat onto my foil, in a few moments as if on cue all of the bubbles would burst free at once. Since I have switched over to Threadmaster, it will start getting too thick before the bubbles ever release - that's why I use a lamp to get rid of the bubbles, get it moving around the wrap and wick off the
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I agree that the Fuji NPS is really comfortable. I used a size 18mm on my brother's Salmon rod and turned the foregrip down to the same diameter as the front neck. It's like a long extention that really feels great.
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When I static test and flex the blank, I do not see any real curve in it until further back into the blank where there's any curvature - perhaps where the 3rd, 4th, & 5th guides would be. I don't know if it's by design or just the blanks that I buy but the first 5" or better of the blank is rather straight and I don't see any reason to move it closer than Tom initial 5" starting poi
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I know the old guide rule for a 12' blank takes roughly 13 guides which I wound up using on my medium power 12' Lamiglas. I used Fuji titanium guides and follwed the staic testing really well, and only made a few tweaks afterwards to get the measurements "eye appealing". Now I'm ready to do my lighter power 13' Talon and am working with a 14 guide placement. Then it struck me that
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I subscribe to the two thin coats method and trim off any nubbins between coats, which cover up perfectly with the second. I like to put an extra security band on the female ferrule where the male section ends inside. At times I'll "bridge" the two bands with finish on the second coat for an overkill of reinforcement. I want to do this on my latest float rod but there are a couple t
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I've noticed a few foreign fibers/tiny hairs and such in my wraps lately that I have to pick out while flaming. I have been reusing my mixing cups and was wondering if this is where my contamination is coming from. I plan get a whole bag of them from @#$%& for next to nothing and just use them once. It makes sense that this could be where my problem is coming from since I always wipe them out wit
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Should be listed in here.
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Against my better judgement I put the second coat of finish on my wrap late at night - with less available light. During the final "wicking" off of the finish with my spatula, I must have gotten too close and knicked the wrap with my spatula leaving a hole or pock mark right on the top of the finish. I think third coat is going to make the wrap look too thick so sanding down the d
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I've read the library article a zillion times but I can't find what position the blank is in when weight is added to the tip. I thought I read somewhere in an old post that the blank should be at a 45 degree upward angle - so with a weight on the tip, one would be flexing the blank to about 135 degrees altogether when reaching the 1/2 way part or more in the blank. Am I correct in assuming the b
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In my recent order from Binghan, there was a brochure included from Gudebrod. Inside I found some Rod Winding Bobbins used to apply thread to your rod. They look exactly like the bobbins I have for tying flies. Does anyone use these bobbins in rodbuilding and when would a 1" stem be used versus the 2" stem? I assume they'd be used for making thread inlays or something similar - I le
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Just got my order of Recoils from Bingham and noticed how well the RSPG single foot spinning guides are already prepped - do I need to dress them up any more or are they usually sufficient to start wrapping the way they are? And if they need dressing up at all, is this special "memory wire" suitable for grinding? I'm going to take a stab at using a #8 RSPG as a tip top and I think I
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