Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > if the "extra" weight is in the butt of the blank, > no big deal. If it's in the tip . . . I completely agree . I can't compare the two versions of the blanks but , on my blank there is a defined junction where the carbon wrap ends ( faint circular ridge ) 36 inches up from the butt leaving almost
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Mr. Kirkman, I measured the length of my blank and it is indeed 86 inches as stated in the specs . But , after checking further , I found that the listed specs for the REVS72ML-SB and the REVS72ML-SCW are identical in every aspect including weight and butt diameter . When I spoke with Mr. Batson , he told me the SCW blank that I have is their newer design with carbon fiber wrapping on the lower
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Measure your blank butt diameter against the > target spec. The way blanks are made requires them > to be trimmed after being pulled from the mandrel. > They're not always exact. One blank that is > trimmed lower down on the mandrel will weigh more > than one that is trimmed further up the mand
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chris c nash Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Enjoy it and don't go too fast , you will be > surprised how easy it is to mess things up. Definitely going to enjoy this and take a lot of time but a few more statements like this last part and I'll end up a drooling heap in a dark corner of the basement :) Ron
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Peter Yawn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I looked up some weights for the REVS72ML and > found anywhere from 1.7 to 2.05 oz. Could the > carbon wrapped version weight another quarter of > an ounce? Probably. Agree with Mick above that it > is likely a typo or some other error the specs, > rather than anything with the blank. I guess I've
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- As stated, .4 is not a normal error. I > think it is a typo or mistake in communicating the > specs. Thanks Mr. Danek . I thought that the weight difference was surprising but , again , it is very possible that the error was with me . I will attempt to recalibrate my scale and weigh the blank again . If t
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All it takes for a blank to weigh a bit more is a > little extra paint or finish, or a trim that is a > little closer to the butt on one than another. > > ............ Thanks Mr. Kirkman . Or all it takes is me being un able to measure that accurately . Like I said , I plan to enjoy the ro
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Thanks Leslie Cline . After all is said and done , I may have measured wrong . I plan to enjoy building the rod and I'm sure it will fish better than I do .
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I understand that I am way over thinking my first rod build but I've little else to tinker with until the last pieces arrive . I measured the weight of my new rod blank - Rainshadow Revelation ML 7ft 2in Carbon Wrapped - to be 2.3 oz . The decal that came on the butt of the blank had been removed and saved before weighing.. The decal indicated the blank was exactly as ordered . The Information on
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Mr. Wilson, Good advice . Thank you . I have a good friend who frequently makes the rounds of thrift stores , estate sales , etc . I'll ask him to help me with this . Thanks again . Ron
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Mr.Miller, Thank you very much for the help you've given me with this . Means a great deal . Ron
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Mr. Ewanicki , Building reamers like you've described sounds like an excellent way to get precise tools for a reasonable cost . Sounds similar to what Mr. Kirkman described in his book but perhaps the contact cement and sandpaper would be more readily available . Only problem is that you and I must live in alternant universes . Shucks, there aren't even whole blanks in my neck of the woods much
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you are using a VSS 16 reel seat, I would > recommend gluing the arbors in the reel seat > before installing. The VSS 16 seat has two > different IDs, the rear half ID is13 mm and the > front half ID is 15 mm. Also the cutout contour of > the VSS grips make it more difficult to glue the >
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Thank you Mr. Kirkman for the link . I will definitely use the second method with my short arbors . Still leaves me concerned about my short Fuji VSS cork grip and fighting butt . I've read excellent suggestions from members here on methods for the cork and will try them . Thanks you again .
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Mark Talmo said : When all has been said and done, and all the videos watched, THE ONLY WAY TO BORE A TRULY CONCENTRIC HOLE IN A FOAM ARBOR is held in a collet chucked in a proper lathe; PERIOD, NO ANDS-IFS-OR BUTS FROM ANY ANGLE!!! Woke up this morning and read this . I do not doubt for a moment that this is true but , for a first time builder who can not justify the expense of lathe , I a
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I checked out the Zenni site and their price seems really good but I would not order from them . The bridge of my nose is fairly wide and their site doesn't offer options in bridge size . If it won't fit comfortably , then even a great price is a total waste of money . I'm sure that folks with "normal/average" facial features would be pretty happy with Zenni . The other question I would
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Mr. Ewanicki , Interesting point . I had not considered air/water temperatures . In my younger days , I've fished in weather where I had to stir the rod tip in the lake to get rid of the ice in the guides so the line would pass . At my age , I may have the sense to avoid those situations - but I doubt it :)
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Good Morning Mr. Talmo , If you don't mind , I would like to read about your method of locking guides into place . At the very least , anything that would give a man the feeling you described would be interesting :) Ron Atchley
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Mr. Miller, Good advice as usual . Locking wraps on everything would not only be more secure but might be better esthetically as well ?? I think I'll go with 4.5 runners because of my neurosis - the only reason I don't think I'll go to 5s is that so many knowledgeable people have suggested 4s . While i have been practicing with the FG knot , I developed an experimental technique involving a micr
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > We tend to overthink > this stuff. Yep . Your right . But ain't it a hoot :) Many thanks .
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Mr. Taimo , Thank you very much for taking time to help me . I've read several of your post on this forum and learned a great deal from them . I will order at least one extra KB as you suggest . I don't believe the build I'm thinking of would be considered ultralight and you are correct in that , if there is no perceptible loss , the added security in that area would be the way to go . A win win
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Mr. Miller , Thank you very much .I will certainly take your advice and use the KBs . Even with the KBs , I think I'll use the locking wrap Mr. Kirkman suggested . I've only built 2-3 rods - old Fenwick glass blanks - and that was at a time when graphite rods had only been introduced for 2 or 3 years . Today it's a whole new ball game and there is such a great deal to learn . Thank you again .
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Mr. Danek , Thank you very much for the link and your excellent advice . I thought I had searched anglersresource from top to bottom but I still didn't find the guide information . I am getting much better with the FG but , like you say , it takes practice . Still , I have an irrational neurosis about the knot banging on the guides with smaller baits . Do you think there would be any functional
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Mr. Kirkman, Thank you very much . I have bookmarked instructions on how to do the locking wrap . That along with the drop of epoxy in the tunnel as shown in your book should work well . And , yes , I believe it is you that I have to thank ( or is it blame ) for my being down this wonderous rabbit hole . I bought your book and have read it so many times that I can quote you chapter and verse .
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I'm going to attempt my first build in many many years and I'm trying to get as many ducks in a row as possible before I start ordering components . This build will be a ML power, fast action, 84-86 inch, 13.5-14 inch from butt to front of VSS reel seat hood, used with a Stradic 2500 , 8# braid , and 10-12# FC leader (heavier leader due to use of FG knot) . I plan to use Fuji KLH and KLM for the
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