Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My most preferred setup is an RV6 stripper guide > followed by the LRV, if the second guide needs to > be double footed for strength. Subjectively, I > feel like the RV6 casts better than the other > options I’ve tried. The line path is very nice. > I’ve gone away from everything else for &g
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Les Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ronald, > > My best recollection is that I found it doing an > on-line search under: 'Fuji KR Concept' or 'Fuji > KR Concept Charts'. > > I don't recall the exact name of the site. Thank you . I'll try several online searches until I find it . I have also emailed Fuji asking for help findi
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I appreciate the help from all you . Thank you . Mr. Danek With Michael Danek , Les Cline , and Norm Miller suggesting RV6 , I can't see where there could be any other choice . Mr. Fiant Excellent article . Thank you . Now , if I can just find the Fuji KR chart for casting rods that Mr. Cline mentioned , I think I will be on my way to understanding this . Thanks again . Ron
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Les Cline Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Norm has you covered here. > > I went with an RV6 straight to two or three KB 5's > and the rest KT 5's. These are freshwater ML to MH > casting rods. I don't think you will notice the > "reverse" guide all that much once you get it > wrapped up. It's not a very big guide footprint,
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > For freshwater rods I mostly use KW10, KW5.5 and > KB/KT runners in BC stainless frame with Alconite > rings. For saltwater rods I normally use RV6, > KW5.5 (sometimes KB5.5) and KB/KT runners in black > titanium (T2) frames with slim Sic rings.. I’ve > also used the titanium RV6 with polished
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have not used the LRV guides, but you are right > they can be used in place of KW guides for > building a casting rod. However, they only come in > a titanium frame and thus are more expensive than > stainless guides. The KW guides come in both a > titanium and stainless frame. If you want to
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I'm starting to think about doing a casting build . Taking it step by step starting with guide selection . Can any tell me the difference between Fuji's KW and LRV guides ? I can see the difference and read the marketing write ups but was wondering if there is a real world - on the water difference ? In the same size , I believe they are within 0.1 mm in height and within about $2.00 in cost . Th
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David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I built two rods using the Pro Wrap 755 Chestnut > that was mentioned earlier, but both of the blanks > have the natural graphite finish.Not sure how much > the green blank would affect the final color, but > It is really a beautiful color without CP once > finish is applied. > > It'
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Take a look at this G Loomis factory tour. > In particular take a look at time stamp of 5:34 > > As you can see, she just flows on a lot of epoxy > and lets it self spread. > > But also look at the time a bit later where she > takes a rod to be coated and the first thing that >
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John Cates Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here is a much shorter video we made that > literally changed my life when it comes to finish > application. Now I get it like glass. > > > and here is another, longer 10 minute version > Really appreciate the video links . The tips on brush rotation and heat ( I was wrong in thinking i
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Donald La Mar Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- If you overload the brush > and apply excess paint the paint will drip or sag. > > The trick is to find through repetitive tests the > technique that works consistently for you and your > equipment. Thank you . Honestly , I didn't think I was applying excess epoxy - literally just enoug
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Daryl Ferguson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I doubt your rod dryer had anything to do with > your issue. I have the same dryer as you and I > didn't have any issues. Thank you . I had been told that the 18 rpm dryer should work well . As I mentioned in another reply , experience is probably the limiting factor here . Ron
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > One of the most common errors in doing a long > application like a decal is using too much. Try > using less epoxy and distribute it along the axis > of the blank so it's evenly distributed. It > sounds like you are not using too much, so maybe > just stopping the rotation while appying to th
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This should help you: > > > ........... Thank you Mr. Kirkman . Excellent video . I think I listed the different things I need to try in my reply to Ross Pearson . Thanks again . Ron
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Mud Hole Custom Tackle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mud Hole Custom Tackle just did a 2 hour show on > finish you may find helpful, linlk below > > hare Thank you . I appreciate the link . Ron
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Ross Pearson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This RodMaker Magazine video is worth a look - > > nnel=RodMakerMagazine. Thank you for the video link . I assume that was Mr. Kirkman . I noticed three things he did differently - used high build epoxy , used artist brushes , and rotated by hand both during and after application . I'll try these change
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Thanks all . CP will cure the problems but I'm not even going to get into whether to use it or not . Way too much controversy :) Thanks again. Ron
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- rod rod builders use > with color preserver to prevent problems with the > epoxy finish. If you don’t use color preserver > you may have problems with fish eyes. So there are > trade offs. > Norm Thank you Norm .
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I am having a problem with getting the finish on my wraps to turn out smooth . This has gotten gradually better with time but is still not right . The problem is with subtle undulations in the light reflex on the finished guide wraps ( and also over the first decal I tried last week ) . I've seen photos here with wrap finishes that have perfectly straight light reflexes over the guide wraps and I
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I went to the Madeira website and it gave me the impression that it was primarily a sewing thread site . I have read post here that suggest sewing thread is not ideal for wraps because of the coating used on the thread to allow it to pass through material smoothly . Because of this , I would have been hesitant to use Madeira thread but , if folks on the NERB site use it , it must work well for wr
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Welcome to the forum Ryan. You've already received excellent advice . All that I might add is that I hope you're able to take your time and not rush on more than your first few builds :) This is way too enjoyable to do otherwise . Glad you're on board . Ron
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Not sure what you're asking about ?? Is your open box similar to what I would call an open diamond wrap ? If you could post a little more information it might help ?? Ron
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > At one time Shimano was making some of their > higher end blanks at the G.Loomis plant in WA. > That may or may not be the case anymore. Thanks Mike . I contacted Shimano and they would / could not give me any information regarding the blank - even basic info . I understand their reasoning . Business is
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El and Lynn , I appreciate the responses . I didn't think I could purchase a Zodias blank but thought , if I could find out who made it , I might get a little insight that would help me learn more . Thank you . Ron
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Michael Ward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Certainly a Shimano proprietary blank Thanks Michael . I didn't ask the right question - as usual . I should have ask if anyone knew which company makes the blank . Thanks again, Ron
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Shimano makes a Zodias 7 foot 2 inch medium heavy fast action bait casting rod . Does anyone know which blank this rod is built on ? Thanks . Ron
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Welcome to the forum . It's my understanding that building on the spine is a somewhat older convention and not as much in favor as it once was ( although there are several folks who still swear by the spine ). The link that Tom Kirkman posted above makes sense to me and , as Donald La Mar said , the aesthetics are much better when built on the straight axis . Because of these two things I will a
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Hey now . That looks like my last build . Didn't know I was onto something new :) I just thought I needed more practice :) Ron
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Many thanks for the great post and information Aleks . While I agree that there is a subjective component to "sensitivity" , what I am confused about is why someone would dismiss any advance in technology that may improve an objective characteristic . My old hands will be just as insensitive as ever but perhaps the new technology will help offset the problem - however slightly . Thanks
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Keith, Man , you're throwing some small stuff . I built on a Rainshadow Revelation REVS72ML-SC which is rated 1/8-3/8 oz. It's my go to rig if there's a school of crappie around . Love it . For the size baits you'll be throwing , I think the Rainshadow Revelation REVS68UL-SB would be a blank worth looking at . It's 6 feet 8 inches and rated for 1/32 - 3/16 . You can seldom go wrong with advice
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