Thanks so much, Jeff!
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Jeff, the first 1/8" will be ivory, then cork.
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Thanks Jeff. So I would be safe in boring a 3/4" hole for the time being and shaving it down to fit later?
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Thanks Jeff, but I somehow put in the wrong model. It's a U24, rather than a U40, that I'm looking for dimensions on. My apologies
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Already sent them a request too, Bill. Just thought I'd throw it out there to see if I could get lucky and save a day or two.
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I have placed an order for stuff along with this seat but the seat is on backorder. I'd like to start working on the grip in the meantime. Does anybody know offhand what size I need to bore for the inlet, or have one of these laying around that they could measure for me?
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Thanks guys! Just curious to see if any of the new stuff is actually an improvement over the time tested.
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Thanks Tom!
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Thanks Billy!
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Having been away for a couple of years, I see there's some new things on the market. Got a couple of Q's. Chromaseal Color Preserver, and Craysons Crystal Clear CP.... Do these do anything that that standard Flex Coat CP doesn't? Any advantage? Mud Hole's CRB Bubble Buster... Does it work? Is it worth the 8 bucks, or is it best to just do it the old fashioned way? There seems to be some
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Another ditto on Ray's post here.
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Thanks so much Mr. Mike!
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Hey guys, I am working the fly rod I mentioned earlier and have settled on a grip setup using burls and a small amount of ivory, but I'm a bit uneasy at trying to knock down that much material on my small drill press. Also, because it is for a friend of mine, I'd like it to be a bit more precise than what my press can probably do. Would anybody be willing to turn it for me for a reasonable fee/
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Or just call it an inlay.
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Nice to see that the master still has issues... LOL Billy:)
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Thanks Steve. Makes good sense. I like it:)
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Oh, and has anybody found a new and improved paint pen to do inscriptions?
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Thanks guys! Already feeling a lot of it coming back. Just trying to catch up with the world. Lou, it's only been about 3 years, but I know how fast new techniques and equipment are found and shared. Still trying to decide between ceramics or stay traditional. Also, is there a general opinion on what style of grip is best for a beginner (Wells, half, cigar, etc)?
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Thanks a lot Bill!
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Seriously, guys. Have there been any new developments? I've seen so many changes when I was here before in such short amount of time, and I really have forgotten a lot of stuff. Am not being my usual sarcastic self. All of the above are serious questions. My knowledge was always very limited in the fly world and I'm sure there's new techniques out there. Throw me a bone here.
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Hi guys! Took a hiatus for a couple of years and starting up again. Seems I've forgotten quite a bit. I have a couple of fly rod questions to see if anything new has been learned since then. First, I'm planning to build a rod for a friend who wants to learn how to fly fish. I have a Forecast 6 wt that I've never gotten around to for myself that I might use, unless that is too heavy for a beg
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Do a practice wrap with fishing line and you'll see why you don't want to do it. To really get the effect, silk is the only reliable way.
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Yet another avenue for Billy to talk?? Do we really need this? Do we really want this? LOL... Seriously, looking forward to it!
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Steve, you could always mix it with PG, then for topcoating, let the PG thicken up for a while before applying. You can get a high build thickness in just a few coats. Threadless wrap style.
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Tape your pattern to the underside of graph paper, then tape the graph paper to a light board or a window on a sunny day. Then trace it on the graph paper. It's how I do most of my patterns. The trick is sizing your pattern to make each line on the graph paper equal one thread.
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Red is one of the fastest fading colors I know of. Tinting the epoxy helps, so does using flex coat, which tends to yellow more than some of the other finishes. CP doesn't help with fading. That isn't its purpose.
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hahahahahha. I use a lot of costume stuff for butt caps, but never had that misfortune!
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One of my favorite personal rods was built two years ago and I still haven't trimmed any tag ends, much less put finish on. Still not sure I like it enough to slap epoxy to it, but in the meantime I can still use it. Also fun to tell people that they are small wind socks so that I can judge wind speed and direction, allowing for ultra-precise casting.
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If the only problem is that your Rod Bond has crystallized, there is no problem. It will work just fine. Mix it up as usual. Haven't used TM epoxy, but can't imagine that it is inferior to anything. Haven't used that particular Elmers product and haven't heard of any reports of it's abilities one way or the other.
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Spine, shlime. Build on the straight axis. If all things are equal, go with your gut.
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