Greg, I ordered Tom's compilation of Common Cents articles. Nicely put together, and has all the information you need. Misplaced mine and will be ordering again - well worth it. Jeff Shafer
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I don't actually use a bobbin, just commented on types I prefer for fly tying. Jeff Shafer
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I think the most important element of Terry's note is that he notified the vendor to not ship the item and the vendor shipped it anyway. I've had this happen to me twice, once by a sponsor and once by a non-sponsor. This problem is a separate issue from the amount of postage charged. In my cases I notified the vendors not to ship and then purchased the item locally because I had an immediate n
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I have several bobbins that I use for fly tying. My preference are the models that have a ceramic insert in the tip of the tube section. The ceramic insert is somewhat rounded inside and creates less friction. Jeff Shafer
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To make things worse - Try being notified that part of your order is backordered, call directly to cancel the backorder (insignificant, small item), and have the supplier ship the backordered item anyway, with shipping charges..... Happened to me twice. One a board sponsor, one not. Jeff Shafer
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I've held ice cubes around the stuck ferrule and the ferrule released. Give it a try. Jeff Shafer
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Jerry, I also have admired the thread selections in fabric stores, and have done some experimentation. When I did a search of this site, I learned that some find these alternative threads useful while some don't . Use the search function on this site to view the many comments on use of alterative threads. Good Luck, Jeff Shafer
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Jerry, I also have admired the thread selections in fabric stores, and have done some experimentation. When I did a search of this site, I learned that some find these alternative threads useful while some don't . Do some searches to view the many comments on use of alterative threads. Jeff
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Check out: "Casting Illusions" by Thomosson-Grant Jeff Shafer
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Greg, Operator error can creep into many rod building steps, we all experience it. So when embarking on guide coating, inscriptions, decal application, feather inlays, etc, it is always a good idea to practice on extra blank sections. IMHO... Good luck, Jeff Shafer
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Not taking sides on the durability of guide wraps with or without CP, but I'm in the no CP camp. On fly rods I like a deeper, more muted thread appearance and have found several thread colors, that when epoxy coated, provide a pleasing appearance. I usually work in some metallic accents. The true colors of my wraps come out when in sunlight. Jeff Shafer
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Mark, I've been using Aftcote, multiple coats, and have just begun experimenting with AMTAK which appears to cure to a harder finish. Jeff
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Darrin, I used REC Recoil snake guides on a few rods during the past year, both wire weights, on 3,4 and 5 wt fly rods. I was attracted to these guides because of their thin wire, light weight, and because they flex easily and return to shape. When I wrapped them, I did nothing to prepare the feet and found them easy to wrap. This was my experience, others may have differing opinions. So f
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I've read about polishing newly completed rods, but hesitated because I felt that having the blank and components waxed would complicate things if a near term repair is necessary. Jeff Shafer
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Eric, If you're using a lite finish, you may want to make your initial turns (90 or 180 degrees) at shorter intervals. I used to use a digital kitchen timer, set initially for three minutes. After five 3 minute intervals, change the timer to four minutes for a few intervals, then reset to five minutes, etc. At some point the epoxy will begin to harden and your intervals can be extended to lon
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Bill, Search on my name and you will see the type of pen I use (I'm in work and don't have the pen with me). It has a nice muted gold color (tan/gold) and doesn't smudge when epoxy is applied. My method is also outlined in my posts. Jeff Shafer
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Like Mike said, long pot life. It's also very clear, and appears to remain somewhat flexible. I've used it for several fly rods now, and am comfortable working with it. Aftcote is in my opinion a light finish - I routinely use three coats on 3-5 wt fly rods. The thing I like most about Aftcote is that if flows very nicely and creates a pretty even finish without the ripple effect I experience
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John, The under feather is a tip section from a wood duck flank feather. A jungle cock is over-laid at the base of the wood duck. This was my first attempt at this type of accent on a rod. I practiced with wood duck then added this inlay to a rod I build last summer. Visit Fishingphotos.net and do a search on feather inlay and you will see that various feathers have been used. I would imagi
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As Ed pointed out there are electronics discounters that sell inexpensive electric motors, however, the shipping and handling charges are often out of sight. I looked at two small motors priced at ~$3.50 each, and the S&H was over $11. So your per motor cost is way above the motor price. Jeff
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Thanks John, I haven't seen any. Most of what I learned resulted from rodbuilding forum searches. I also searched on fishingphotos.net. Basically you're wetting your surface with something like color preserver, permagloss, polyurethane, etc. and laying down the feathers which are locked in place by your wetting agent. Then, epoxy coat over the inlay. I did some practice on old rod sections.
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As a result of the generosity of other Rodbuilding.org members, I was exposed to some great examples of feather inlays. So, after doing some experimentation on scrap blank sections, I did my first inlay this past week. I had read a lot of advice from those with experience, regarding things like the medium used to hold the feather in place prior to coating with thread epoxy. I experimented wi
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Spining stiff rod sections is made easier by decreasing resistance on the rod section. For example, using the table top method is tough because the resistance that the palm of your upper hand puts on the blank makes it tough for the blank section to spin into position. There are commercial spine finders that have a pair of sleeve bearings installed in a PVC tube. The rod section is slid into
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Michael, Because I didn't want to set up a dryer with one motor and turn 9' fly rods fully assembled, I build my dryer with two motors side by side so I could dry in two sections. One motor has a chuck which holds the reel seat. The other motor has a drive that has a glue stick tapered to a narrow diameter (I simply used a sharp knife to shave the glue stick into the taper). The female fe
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Mike, I found that with LS my finish, especially on longer areas like my butt wraps and inscription area, dried with waves. Yes, that's a sign of too much epoxy, but I also found that my guide wraps ended up lumpy, and that the LS didn't self level very well. When I switched to Aftcote, I loved it. It self levels very well, but is pretty light. While I don't mind building up three coats with
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I've been using Aftcote finish lately and like its working properties. I like the way it flows, and like that it's very clear. But now I'd like to try a high build thread epoxy. A non-yellowing formula would be my preference. I should add that I wasn't that impressed by regular LS Supreme so am interested in knowing if their high build is vastly different from their light version. Thanks,
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I definitely feel that the wrap at the base of the tip top is functional. Even if the correct match is made between tip diameter and tip top tube, there is an edge exposed that your line may rub against. So the wrap and epoxy coating provide a transition from blank level to tube level. Jeff Shafer
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As with Putter, I also use Rod Bond, and use a flat stick to "stuff" around one quarter to one third of an inch into the male ferrule. Jeff Shafer
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Look closely at the seam to see whether it is epoxied on. I seem to recall that some of mine are bonded. If that's the case you should be able to heat the joint and break the bond. I use a small torch to break epoxy bonds on golf clubs. Now, the situation may be more complicated if any of the components, either the tube or fitting, is painted. Using a torch to heat the components likely w
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My ability to work epoxy more neatly along thread edges improved when I stopped using my upright thread wrapper to support the blank while I hand turned and applied epoxy. Instead I use supports that I built out of 1x4 wood. A somewhat square piece of 1x4 supports a short vertical piece of 1x4 which has a V cut out and lined with felt. The rod section is now only around 2" above my tabl
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Bill, I am not familiar with the photos you refer to, but I'm not personally aware of anyone who uses masking tape at the end of the guide wrap. I assume that process may be used so that an even edge could be attained, and I assume that the rodbuilder would have removed the tape soon after applying his/her epoxy. When I apply my epoxy to guide wraps I work out toward the edge of my wraps, co
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