Hello all. I've just completed a 7' heavy action worm rod for my wife's brother-in-law. I wrote on the scuffed blank with gel pens and Sanford slim tip metallic marker, but when I tried to put the finish on, everything smeared. I'd let the inscriptions dry/set for over a week prior to finishing. Luckily, I was able to clean everything off with a bit of acetone, but I can't help but think that I didn't do something that I should have to avoid this issue arising in the first place. Suggestions? Thanks in advance .... Bill

Did You put a color presever coat on before you put the finish coat on. You do this by making one thin horizonal pass of C/P go in one direction only.
Good Wraps Bob

Or you can get a can of Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic spray, spray lightly from about 8 to 10 inches away and let dry and it won't smear. IMHO much easier than cp.

Bob

Bill, Sorry to hear of the inscription problems. Make sure the ink/paint you use is water resistant. Most will infact say so on the package. Doing this alone will prevent any second or third steps to seal, preserve or set the inscription. If the package doesn't say anything about water resistance then assume it isn't.

Good wrappin,
David A. Fuller
Great Basin Fishing Rods

Clear spray works great. Levi

The easiest way to check if it smear is before you every build the rod. Write on it where the grip will be, let it dry and see if it you can smear it with your finger. If it smears then you know you need to coat it, if not, it will covered by the grip anyway.

Shouldn't you NOT use acetone on graphite rod blanks? I think an article in the library says specifically not to do that. Only denatured or rubbing alcohol should be used. Am I wrong on this?

You are right Jackie, don't use acetone. IMHO acetone should be banned for sale to the general public, it is very dangerous stuff.

Bill,

If you use Flex Coat rod wrap finish get the SAKURA Pen Touch Fine Markers. No need for CP or other sealer. The SAKURA Pen Touch Fine Markers might work the same with other finishes but I'd test it first.

Hank
On The Rocks Fishing
Wells, ME.

I've had good luck using the Sakura extra-fine tip paint markers as Milton suggests.I coat right over the inscription area with LS Supreme=no smears.I buy them at Michaels craft stores.Silver and Gold colors.Joel

Sanford makes the same style, too. I used them for 15 + years before switching to waterslides. It's called either silver coat (68720 in x-tra fine tip) or gold coat (76715 in slim tip) and dries really quickly and can be coated over with finish. No muss, no fuss. Only bad thing is that with these pens, alcohol won't remove the mistakes. It takes a stronger solvent than that...

Putter

I use the GoldRiter pen from Veach Co quite often. They have many colors, including silver and gold. It is a "hand held writing stylus"- uses heat transfer to write on the blank. They are not cheap- about $60 retail, comes with a ton of tape for writing with. If you goof, it can be removed with denatured alcohol. Does not scratch the blank, and leaves very crisp writing. As with anything, they have a small learning curve, but are well worth it. I'm not sure if any sponsors carry it, or not. Ciao!

Steve

Steve,
That GoldRiter pen looks interesting. What would you say the size of the point is , fine, medium, or? They say there is a special foil for graphite. Is that what you use or is the foil that comes in the kit ok for rods? 600 inches each of gold and silver would do a bunch of rods.

Bob

Bill,
Search on my name and you will see the type of pen I use (I'm in work and don't have the pen with me). It has a nice muted gold color (tan/gold) and doesn't smudge when epoxy is applied. My method is also outlined in my posts.

Jeff Shafer

I stopped in my local fly shop last night to talk to their rod building guy about some Titanium reel seats he wants me to make for him. (Basically just a titanium version of the abel saltwater sized fly seat. More on this another time) And we chatted for nearly two hours about this and that.

He gave me a really good tip for covering the inscription. He said to use a thin epoxy and turn the blank slowly while applying it. Start by adding a large gob of epoxy to either side of the inscription and work it around the blank. Then as the rod is turning while the inscription is facing away from you use your brush to move the epoxy to the area of the inscription (moving lengthwise down or up the blank.) Then continue to add epoxy and drag it into this area. As the rod turns the epoxy should level out and cover the lettering without messsing it up.

Once you have the entire area coated just remove the excess epoxy with your brush and keep it turning to level out the finish.

Mark