I look at it like this... The trend for years has been to make more responsive rods. Tighter. Crisper. More sensitive. Lighter, etc. And so I followed this trend and one of my latest rods, not going to say who made it as they are a sponsor, but in my opinion it went too far. This rod is a 7'3" custom rod and so fast that the bend in the rod is only in the upper 1/3 or 1/4 of the rod. I
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You can also try warm to hot water as well.
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I personally would not use any heat.
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Congratulations and wishing you and NFC all the best and a bright and successful future! Glad to hear Tom will be sticking around!
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Please keep us updated on how this works out. I have never considered using leather, but sounds interesting. I am interested in learning what type of leather and how thick and what substrate you would use? I am also interested in learning about what type of adhesive would work best for leather as separation issues may arise if say a super hard adhesive is used and, I am wondering if a more
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Just seeing this... thanks for all Tom! Hope you keep posting in between fishing!
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Thomas Kaufmann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You don’t NEED Titanium frames but they will > make a noticeable difference in the feel of the > rod. Thanks for saying this. I have never used titanium frames because I never considered them worth the expense, but if what you say makes that much of a difference then I would consider using them on ro
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Alconite should do fine. SIC guides can be brittle and break easier. Any online search for 'SIC' and 'brittle' and 'breaking' will pull up numerous examples.
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"Morgan (McCain) is the founder of All Star Graphite Rods and the originator of technique specific actions." No such thing as species specific. Technique specific is more relevant to me.
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Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ships have sailed across oceans with their > rigging surviving incredible storms with lashed > attachments. If the lashing is well performed and > held securely down, there shouldn’t need to be > locking work done away from the main joint area. Conclusion: A hydraulic pulling measuring machi
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Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That means the lure > puts less downward pull on the rod tip when > immersed. Thanks Kendall! I should have clarified my comment above to say my preference is for balance when the lure is above the waterline. When a rod setup is tip heavy, we now have the leverage effect working against us. The
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I think the key to balance is when should it be balanced and why. For me, I prefer a balanced setup with lure attached- or real close. This means tip light without lure attached. I think or believe I suffer less muscle fatigue if I include the lure and balance it for use which is when it counts to me. So on both spinning and baitcast setups I prefer tip light until balanced out for use only.
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I'd say no.
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Thanks!
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Where can the Gary Loomis 80th birthday post be found? And thanks for the great made in USA blanks!
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Lynn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All this flag waving gets old. Flag waving NEVER gets old.
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Yes it is. The method is simple enough. They do all the prep work on the hull and then wait for the hottest time of the day when sun is directly overhead and cooking hot. They keep the boat cooled down and then roll it out into the hot sun to heat up the aluminum to as hot as they can get it, and then they apply the epoxy and shortly after while the epoxy is still as close to liquid as possible,
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Ed Kramer Wrote: > The stoppages > occur at a different point on every rotation, > giving the epoxy a chance to flow over the wrap > and release bubbles. Ed will you share with us how you apply your epoxy that causes bubbles? I've never really had an issue with this so I am curious.
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Ron Weber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Then in respect to this, regardless of the > direction, a slower rotation should allow the flow > or movement of the finish to cover an entire > rotation lending to a better leveling of the > finish This is a subject that is very difficult to judge and accurately determine what is the correct rotati
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For anyone interested in a technical read on epoxy crosslinking here is a link: "The origin of this crosslinking process occurs when linear polymer chains link to form a three dimensional network (See Figure 1)1. The resultant crosslinked polymer network is defined by the crosslink density, which is essentially the number of effective crosslinks per unit volume. Polymers with a high c
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Mark Talmo Wrote: > I decided to experiment with rotating my curing > epoxy in both directions, changing every 5 minutes > for the first hour, every 15 minutes for the > second hour, and then when convenient or I thought > of it after that. I am convinced there has been a > noticeable improvement in the leveling of the > epoxy; I am leaning away from your conclusi
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The type of line you use (mono or braid), the > diameter of line you use, and the ambient > temperature will all influence what diameter > guides will work best on your rod - but many > builders worry more about appearance than they > worry about performance - and beauty is in the eye > of
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Easiest and cheapest is a PVC pipe from local hardware store with end caps and bubble wrapping around rod. ADDED- USPS I believe may be cheapest shipper.
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My bad on that one. Let's see if I or others can find the 10% as it surely is not on page 5 or any before.
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It is disappointing to try and discuss technical issues among so many artists... if only there was a performance-only situation instead, rendering more than 90% as useless as well as those offering.
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I misread the tutorial, and rojo nekzero will be along any second to offer more ad hominem. Wait for it... its coming... they can't resist.
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Mike, I said I have done in the past and rejected doing it. What I have not done is tried the Forhan wrap and then tried pulling the guide out with pliers and no epoxy. All you gotta do is actually read what is written rather than what you want to get out of it to avoid comments like this one.
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I will try it. And I can do it on micro guides or do I have to go bigger for the challenge? And should I use real heavy thread too? Which way should I skew the test? I use the smallest micro guides and thinnest of threads and have zero issue with guides pulling out. Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Guide wraps are normally finished w
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Oh and in the tutorial I just read again on this forum and in the library... "Once the threads are epoxied, the guide is now effectively prevented from pulling out." Once they are what?
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it happens
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