Mr. Forhan I totally agree!! Much of the info I've gleaned from Rod Maker over the past 13 years has been Priceless I can't even imagine how lacking this craft would with out the education many have received from the articles of this magazine.
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I agree with Mr Forhan. have been doing the same since the 1070's The only disadvantage I've ever seen with spiral wraps is that they take a bit long to lay out correctly. But the effort is SO worth it!!!!
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When it comes to MVT seats There is no comparison on the Market Put simply: it is the best seat out there!
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Keith You scared me pretty bad with that post yesterday The MVT seat is easily the best seat I have ever used!!! Was going to call Bill yesterday to ask him why, but got tied up with some other stuff and never got around to it
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so my question is: why would you not want the carbon to come in contact with the blank? When building carbon grips, one of my main goals is to have the carbon be in contact with the blank
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Ben I would not use e-glass for any slack line technique regardless of line!
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you will have a better hook up to land ratio with the Mod-fast blank the absolute last thing I would use for pitching worms or any slack line technique is something with E-glass in it
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it is one of the top 3 best!
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there is no need for a fore grip on a drop-shot rod. Is just more unneeded-unnecessary weight in front of reel throwing off balance point
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Copied this from a post I placed 11 years ago, it was in reference to adding weight to balance a rod, it applies to what you are attempting to do (DO NOT ADD WEIGHT TO YOUR DROP SHOT ROD) While adding weight to balance a rod may take away from its sensitivity, it adds to its bite detection. Example; If your rod is tip heavy; its natural tendency is to pull down towards the water and fish.
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Brian I too would follow James advise Personally picking his last suggestion " Could also go a bit outside the "box" and use an Immortal Popping blank IMMP70MH-TC (inshore popping blanks actually spec out very similar to cranking blanks) - www.rainshadowrodblanks.com " You'll find that blank has the ability to do every thing you want, while being much more sensitive
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I don't build a rod for under $450.00 If a costumer wants a rod for $150-170 Send them to Bass Pro Shops
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Billy What stood out to me most about the show: For the last few years I've supported the Batson's both as part of their pro staff, mostly fielding questions from fresh water rod builders This year the skill level of questions that were asked, thoughtful, intelligent, thought out types of questions Were far superior to those I've been asked in the past. I mostly attribute that to pe
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Tom dome times I'm doing several rods at at time set them aside and finish all at one time.( sometimes a few days before I get back to them) I have found that if I wait until I am ready to finish the rods before cutting my tag ends, there is no problem with them coming unwrapped.
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I cut (shorten the threads) on almost all reel seats including Batson's Tory seats, both spinning and casting. Personally: if I needed to shorten (a sometime in the future) Reel foot, in order to fit my rod. I would not cut it either. But I would GRIND that sucker down shorter in a heat beat!!!!! And have in the past.
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Things to Shake at the Show? Jim Isings hand will be a good starting point! Look forward to seeing you again
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Been using carbon fiber since the 1970's First the pre-made tubes from Lew's and a few others. Then after Tom/Andy introduced them, been using both home made and pre-made. In 40 some years, have NEVER seen one fail
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you can find some good spacing info On Batson's web site on spacing for their blanks which will work for good starting points for other similar blanks.
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something I posted a few years back
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it would not. I've caught plenty of 8 lb.+ large mouth with them and a few 20-40 lb+ cat fish who though they needed a bass plug for dinner and know a few builders who use them on their stripper n musky rods
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Not so much in that article. But Volume 11 # 1 does NOTE: in the comment section of that link, "A Single Feather" and "vibronic custom rods assembly techniques" are different articles.
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Mark I don't remove reels for storage, and just service them attached to the blank. If a reel wears out, (has happened twice in the last 30 years) just replace like you would a broken guide. On the one occasion I had a reel break in a tournament I removed it and put another on temporally with electrical tape then mounted it permanent when I got back in town when a rod breaks, relocate the r
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I use hot gun glue almost exclusively for putting on tips. But I use the high temperature hot glue for the reason Micheal mentioned above "if you leave rods in a hot car in a hot climate, you may have trouble" That being said, your wive's hot gun may not work as it requires a gun capable of melting high temp hot glue. do not use the combo (low/high temp) glue as it still melts a l
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Mark Talmo comment- "an overlooked attribute is that it produces the most comfortable transition between the grip and reel of anything else " precisely one of the 2 reasons I don't use seats on spinning rods the other being sensitivity One thing Mark does that I do not, is to move reel around in different locations. I only use graphite tubing and once the reel's location is
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on spinning rods I tend not to use reel seats
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5 or 4 mm I usually go 6-5-4- then for runners (depending on build ) any were fro 3 mm down to 1.5 mm
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I pretty much only build bass rods. But have built one fry rod and used Micro guides 2.5 mm runners on it because I didn't know better. Took it by Rod Maker Mag. corporate offices so Mr. Kirkman could teach me how to cast a fly rod, It works pretty good and Mr Kirkman did not indicate that he was having any trouble with it. (but then he might have just been sparing my feelings) Also
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Depending on what rod is going to be used for? I mostly stick with these 2 options. where sensitivity is not as much of an issue I mostly stick with this model XPTCMKCG on rods where more sensitivity is desired and also on more expensive builds I'll use XPTCMKZG Using a single or double guide depends also on the build. On most builds I'll start with a 6 mm single foot stripper guid
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I've tried every brand Below is why I only use Batson's Alps guides Here is a post from 11 years ago and nothing has changed since then
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then you should do a long search. There is much posted on this web sight about using them My suggestion is don't which is what you will find are most of the suggestions concerning them
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