I like to use seats that are to small, Them ream them out to what I need. that way I always have a seat that is tight to the blank (no gap). I beleave a rod is more sensative if you don't have fillers between handle and blank.
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Have had the same thing happen a few times. To date non of those have ever failed on me. I make a point to put the sliver back inside if practical. then just whap my thread a little further down then I would normally do just to make sure the sliver and no continue down the
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I have used them on several rods, and will continue to do so. I like very much what I can accomplish with them and being able to play around with the weight until I get exactly what I want. The only draw back for me is that they will loosen up during the days fishing,. So you just need to periodically check them and tighten them back up so they don't fall off on you while fishing.
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If you collect the money up front. You won't have this problem. If by some chance you do just get their mailing address. Also tell them that you are including the cost of shipping in the rod, and if they choose to pick it up in person you will refund the shipping charge at that time. If they ask why you do it that way. Tell them that some times customer can not get back for some time and this way
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Spencer post corrected . Thank you for catching my brain cramp
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I would say that I an just the opposite of Brian. I balance all my pitching rods so that they are tip light/ butt heavy. They pitch further, are more sensitive to lighter bites, and are less fatiguing during the day. After 20 years of playing with this I find tip light rods perform better. I use tungsten weights. Lead is a deadening substance. For that reason I use tungsten, because it is
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you can cut it with a hack saw then burnish and straighten the end on a grinding wheel
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I use a lot of popping blanks to build crank bait rods. They have more of a parabolic action, which makes them a little more forgiving with treble hooks. Also good for casting cranks long distances.
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What type/brand of stripper are you using. I called St Criox last month about doing the same thing. They said it would void the warrenty, but i'm still thinking about any way. I'm not conerned about he color, just want to get rid of the added wieght.
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Tom will you be looking to add venders as the builders increase?
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I suggest leaving it at least over night. It is easier to live with inpatients then regrets!
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Andy Dear had some nice Alstar 7' med. blanks at the show for a good price. Just finished building one last night. was testing it yesturday after noon for castability before I attached the guides perminently. It casts further then any rod I've ever built of the same style blank. Feels good, nice looking colbolt blue color.
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Nothing say's you have to use 8 size guides if you use 8 size tip. It may look a little more uniform if you do, but that’s all. Just finished a flipping stick. I use 3-6’s and an 8 tip, because I would rather have the rod a little lighter and performing to what I want, instead of being locked into some cosmetic standard
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Here is a copy of DR's artical on braided lines -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Braided line-truths and decpetions This is one of the most confusing little known areas of fishing, that I have ever came across. Everytime I read what others are saying about braied lines, it makes me cringe first, then it enrages me to see all the misinformaiti
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John, What length and what blank are you going to use? also what power?
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Tom: Saw you reply to the hot melt glue question. What brand and temp glue are you getting from the hardware that you have found works best for you?
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That is really a good looking rod.
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Definitely go with test two
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Michael: I use a lot of popping blanks to build crank bait rods. They have a little bit slower action which gives the fish and extra second to inhale a bait before the hook set. Also is a little more forgiving in that it is harder for a fish to throw the hooks on a crank bait using these rods. Because of the softness of these blanks.
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I use a Dremel. I buy Diamonds blades them from a lipadery company. Veary high quality at a fraction of the cost I can get them form other places.
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will work great
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There are none on this side of the county. Not sure if there is even any this side of the missippi
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If you checker it were you will be holding it. I think you will find it irritating on you hand as the day goes on. If you checker areas that your not holding, I think it would look awesome.
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Has any one ever wrapped guides with clear mono or fluorocarbon? If so what was the result? Have they held up? Was also thinking about useing clear poly. Was just wondering what would be the best options?
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I don't know what what size guide to suggest, but if you tell your customers to put Rain-X on their guides before they go fishing and a coulpe of times during the day I will cut down on the iceing problem. You can now get the Rain-x in little packets like individual towel wipes .That are easy to keep in a pocket.
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Bill after the drawing, get up with me I may give you a cut rate deal on my ticket
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I thought ealier that you had said that Bingham Ent. was going to be there. Have they changed their minds?
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I use an 8' popping rod for cranking. I use it to fish small crank baits deeper. Holding the rod almost strait down with the tip in the water. By extendeing the tip 3 to 4 ft. below the water line it allows me to get small crank baits down an extra 3 to 4 ft' to were fish useally only see larger baits. Has been really productive for.
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looking good so far I like your handle
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"Insects and their allies" I think I've seen everthing now.
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