how does the working time of it compare to other epoxies, like thread master?
Forum: rodboard

Emory: I would agree with you except for the fact that I use popping blanks for some of my crank bait rods. However at the moment I only have one of those in my shop and it is a split handle and may not be behaving that way because the split may be relieving some of the pressure that would other wise be there on a one piece handle. I will be out of town next week, but when I get back I will be
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Emory: What type and lenth of rods are your having this challenge with?
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I to use blank exposed seats-that may be the difference. I also do what mike suggested and Emory elaborated on. I cut down the arbor to match the diameter or the reel seat on one side and the graphite on the other. That is the only arbor the does not come into contact with the blank- that may be the difference. Not sure which one is making a difference? All I know is I'm not having the flexing e
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Emory: I've done what you suggested with rods from 7' med.- though 7'.5' -8' med -to 8' med and heavy rods. and still do not notice what you are talking about. All of these are bass rods. Maybe something that is more noticeable on longer rods then what I have here? Aaron: I always glue my arbors to the blank and up to the reel seat first and let them harden, then slip my tubing up from the b
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I have built a lot of rods with graphite handles, and have not noticed this at all. a couple of those rods I've have fished for over 15 years. After your post I checked the one's I still have in my shop. Purposely over taxing them to the point of being afraid I might break them. I did not notice any of the flexing you are talking about. One of them creaked the first time I bent it ,but that was
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What I’ve started doing is to pull the epoxy into the syringes I am using. Place those syringes tip first into the flat container I will be mixing them in. Then place it in the Microwave for 10 sec. Eject then mix. I buy the larger bottles of epoxy. So i don’t put the whole container in the microwave, am paranoid that if I reheat them to many times it might start effecting the epoxy.
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Am not able to open the online catalog. Keep getting error mesqge form your site and freezes up my system.
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Andy Dea also has some of the older AllStar balnks. He might by chance have one Or be able to suggest a good substatute.
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I don't have a flat bed scanner either. But I will see what I can do.
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You may not can, But don't limit others by comparing them to your abilities.
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You'll always hear that. Tell them to go to wallmarts. If you did some checking you would find a lot of rod makers in that range. I know one who's price works out at about $100.00 per hour. He told me he gets$150.00 labor per rod and that it takes him about 1-1/2 hour per rod. Then there's the mark up on parts
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I do it exactly the way Tom Kirkman does. Some times I will wrap up to the tube, then back down the blank for about 3 wraps then back up and over the tube. Makes kind of a beveled edge that looks like I put a winding check there. Just a little smoother transition.
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If they are wide scratches you might, but if they were caused be your finger prints. they should level out and fill in. You might try picking the worse one and recoating that one only. That should tell you if another coat will work, or you need to sand them down or start over. I've had some pretty bad goobers of my own that I've just been able to recoat, and they came out fine.
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Anthony: You might try starting these dementons. Then adjust acordingly with the static system 4-1/2 9-5/8 15-1/2 22 29-1/8 37 45-1/2 54-5/8 64-1/2 75
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Bill: I don't have a digital camera that I can use to down load pictures onto the site. I have a very expensive old fashioned Pintex camera. that takes great pictures. So I have just never seen the need to buy a digital.
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When your done using your syringes. Back the plunger out almost to the top of the tube. Some times when you leave them compressed the rubber part of the plunger will stick in the bottm and pull off the staft if you don't. by leaving it extended it automaticly breaks free when you depress it for your next use.
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Tom: Now that I think about it you are dead on about Bill. He has developed quite a following over the years. They are happy with his rods and he is happy with them. The only change I've seen him make in the last twenty years is to switch to St Croix blanks from Loomis. I'll tell you though, I've won a lot of money off rods he's built for me. Still have 2 one of which is at least twenty years o
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put another coat on it
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Tom: There is a Rod Builder In Staley, NC by the name of Bill Poe not far from you. That has been building rods for at least that long who may not even know what the internet is. I will contact him and let him know about the show. He built custom rods for me back in the 80's,and is the person that got me started building.
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Al: Figure how long it takes to build the everage rod. Figure how much you want to make hour. times that by 10% to cover unseen expences and use of your tools that will have to be replaced or repaired as they were out over time, and you will have an Idea of what you need to make. Personally I don't do any thing for less then $70.00 per hour. Some rods can be done in 1-1/2 hours some take as
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.I would suggest staying away from the steel wool. Some times minute pieces can lodge in the finish or around the area were guide leg meets blank. They will alter rust a time and start discoloring your rod finish. I would use scotch bright pads, fine grit. I would also wait a few days maybe even two weeks before sanding to allow the epoxy to really cure out. If you sand it to soon f
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Walter: Do what Mike Sledden suggested. He is right on target with exactly what I do.
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John: DO NOT USE WAX PAPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Use foil if you use any thing like that. Personally I go to the plumbing dept in lowes. They sell little cheap test caps for putting water test on drainage systems. I use them several times. never clean the epoxy out. Just let it dry on the bottom. Then mix the next batch on top. When cap is c
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I would suggest you email Steve Pratt, Director of CTS blanks he does a really good job of explaining this. His email is--- stephen@ctsfishing.com
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No help with your problem but a suggestion to help in the future. When I have a rod drying I tape the switch in the on position so there is no chance of me or my wife accedentally turning it off
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One thing I do is put a small bump in the tape. use a BB or spit ball or water ever. I wrap it under the tape so that when I bring the thread up an raound to go back down the gets behinf the bump. That way I do not have problems with the thread slipping out of alignment
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Are you using scotch bright pad or an off brand?
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Jared I use reamers, even on exposed real seat handles. I put the reamer in a drill press then manually move it up and down to get the diameter I want . If you use drill press use a slower speed so you don't melt the handle. Can also melt grit off reamer. The reason to move it up and down is to keep it from building up heat. Be patent and take your time. Also don't push up it to firmly or it w
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If you are strating twenty wraps back before you start a locking wraps that's about 28 wraps. Could dfinently cause problems. good chance you line will break before pulling all the way through. Have had it happen with just 6 to 8 When it does you could be going back to square one to sart over. To much caution can be as bad as to little
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