Congratulations on your first rod. Wait till you catch a fish on it. There’s something magical about catching fish on rods you’ve built.
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Thanks Tom: That's what I thought, But wanted to make sure.
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I am replacing the cork grip on a Fenwick Techna AV rod with a graphite grip. When I pulled the old handle off. I drilled out some epoxy from the butt section only to find out it was securing another piece of blank 2-3/8 inches inside the blank. Have not seen this before , and was wondering if it was something needed? Or maybe some thing I should have been doing all these years and didn’t kn
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I'm with you cliff!
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I would suggest you DONOT use masking tape. will leave a raised edge when you remove it. Won't look good and will catch you fishing line if you are using braid. When you apply heat don't hold it in one spot just kind of sweep it back and forth over the area you are heating. Hold flame above the rod, not under . If you do it under the soot from flame can discolor you finish or threads. I epoxy a
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I think Keith's suggestions are good choices. As the price of the St Croix goes up so does the quality, and the weight of the blank goes down They are some of the lightest most sensitive blanks on the market. Even their mid priced blank is excellent.
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With the epoxy still soft if you cann't pull it off, take a big pot. Fill with hot water bring to boil place handle in water for 30 seconds at a time until untill epoxy soft enough to pull handle off. Try to pull handle off after each 30 seconds.
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Stan, I may be miunderstanding what you said. "The guide foot actually needs to be lifting from the blank slightly to make this first blocking wrap." You want the guide foot flat on the blank. If your's are lifting off, something is wrong. Or are you saying "at the point were the foot turns up toward the ring slightly is were you want to make your first wrap?
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DR: I do not put anything on rods, but read an article several years ago about clear coating rods. In the article the author would take rubber from an old inner tube for car tires and cut a big square out of it. Take a leather punch, and using the smallest hole. ( you have to use punch, if you try to cut hole will leave slit that will create a streaking effect on the blank.) Punch a hole in th
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Andy: Do you have any stats on those blanks? Do you have any spinning or baitcasters?
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If you have a drill press. You can make a makeshift lathe
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Was at a fishing show last week. Looking at G.Loomis Factory rods. That had the recoil's on them. Had them on a flipping stick. So as far as Loomis is concerned they'll work.
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I use a small (about 1-¼ inch) metal flexible artist spatula that looks like a pointed masons trowel. Use it to mix epoxy, then to apply. ] Mix my epoxy on a larger relatively flat surface. Push it around more then stir. That way I tend to push the bubbles out as I go, and seldom have problems with bubbles. The few occasions I do are from what Tom said. Air escaping from threads. I also do what
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Tom: how much are they?
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DR: I don't use the Matrix reel seats. But I do use the green tubing. I buy it in 5ft lengths and cut it to the size I want. It is my favorite stuff for handles. I also use grey in a smaller diameter. Been using it for about twenty years with out any problems.
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Bring some to show ,if it Dosen't create a confict of interest with Tom. Maybe get one of the venders to sell them for you.
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Are you sure you are wrapping the furrules tight enough. If your wrap is not at least snug, might be give in the furrule room to splinter
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Will work fine may not be the perfect set up you want, but will work. One option is to glue the tip on with out wrapping it so you can use it while waiting for a #7 to come in. Then repalce it and wrap at that time. Maybe order #7 when you order parts for your next rod to save on shipping.
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It may simply be a matter of centrifugal force. The faster something turns, the more inertia is created causing directional force away from the center of rotation, and therefore high spots in your finish.
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extra aparts to have around the shop. nothing worse then a shop with out parts laing around
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One thing is to make sure that your first guide does not hit the handle section at the joint, when the rod is collapsed. Even if it means moving it off your static test a little bit. No need to prep inside handle. Be careful not to allow epoxy to run down inside the handle ,as it will effect the way the two parts join when extended. Wrapping 1/2inch down the outer joint is plenty. Anything past
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You might try looking at hobby stores sometimes they have large selections of Balsa wood including dowels. Would suggest ones that carry wood model airplane type stuff.
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Scott try dopping it on cloth then pluck it up after it dries. Which is basicly what is created when you wind thread around a blank
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Tom: My comment was not to the strength of the wrap. but that the epoxy bonds to the thread better. Because the CP coats the thread and inhibits the epoxy from penetrating. I have seen guides with color preserver come lose more easily then when it is not used. That may not have been your experience, But is an observation I have seen over the years.
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Have not put an epoxy on any that I have done. But the only time my rods are standing up is when they are in a rod holder or on carpet.. The coins can tend to pop off if the rod is struck or bumped hard enough on the butt. there are two ways you can help prevent this. 1- If you can or have access to some one who does, you can tack weld a flat head screw to the tail side. If using a wood handle
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I personally don't use color pre. I would rather have the additional strength in bonding that is lost when it is used. With out color pre. your threads will change color when you apply it unless use you thread is NPC or metallic. Anything left in the sun will fad or change color if left out long enough. Unless you are absolutely committed to the "blue" in your threads I would finish the
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YES
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The little rubber bands that are used for dental braces will work. May be little more expensive then tubing from hobby store, But you don't have to cut them, and for those of us who don't have a hobby store around the dental stuff is more accessible from drug stores. Don’t use adhesive because it isolates the guides from the blank, with what is basically a vibration deadening material, and I
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I'm with Tom
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Michael: Were do you live? I am from Pinehurst
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