I would put decals on near the winding check. For tem colors, I would use double foot guides with one side as 1/2 of the team colors, and the other foot wrapped with thread of the second color. Wrap every other guide with team colors, and the other guides with a neutral color. Tight lines and frisky fish. RJF
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Again, we all differ in what we like. For line to leader, I Like the blood knot, and the nail knot. They are both slim, and strong. I have yet to have either of these knots fail me. There are also some great knot tying tools that make it very easy to qujickly tie your knots. Tight Lines and frisky fish RJF
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I haven't done the ,ath, but vector algebra is required here to determine the forces applied to the guide, wraps, and blank. There is forward and backward friction, which works to move the guide on the blank, and then the guide feet can apply the load of the line perpendicular to the rod, with one foot or the other on two foot glides, feeling more stress due to the direction of line travel. The
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As a good fishing buddy use to tell me when i was > getting a little too silly about anything:"Maybe > it,s all in your imagination." lol.. I wish it was just in my imagination. Check this out: . and this: Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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A hundred people will give you a hundred variations. For your rod blank, Check with CTS out of New Zealand. They make some of the best blanks in the business, both in carbon fiber, and fiberglass. You also have other options for guides as well. Recoil guides are nearly indestructible, made of titanium, and if you step on one, it's like a spring, and comes back to its original shape. As far
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The Great Lakes, indeed all of the world's fresh waters are stressed due to many pollutants. I've been paying attention. A thought came to me, micro plastic particles and fibers. These are miniscule in size, but are entering the food chain of the tiny critters that feed on algae. These get eaten by small bait fish, then by larger fish, then by us. The fibers have been found in trout, pike
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Can natural cork rings be placed on a mandrel, then hit lightly with a propane flame, then rubbed, and sealed with cork seal? this might give you the look you want with the natural cork. Tight Lines and Frisky Fish RJF
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I prefer multiple sections in my rods. From a physics standpoint, the area of the most stiffness, perpendicular to the rod length, will resist hoop collapse best. This means that the rod blank will have more lifting power, and sensitivity. However, the tip bends into a straight line, and so isn't stressed as much as the bittiom.opposite the spine) on the top two portions. The rod will bend to
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What I was getting at., my Winston BX3 7 wt. cost 900 to over 1000 dollars from the Winston factory, or a good store that sold high end fly rods.. It cost me 450 to purchase the blanks, and really good hardware. The only thing that was less expensive on my Winston build, compared to a factory built, was the reel seat. I didn't get the nickel-chrome. My other builds have been similar, wit
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My favorites are CcS, and Epic. If you don't want to pay as much, Echo make great fiberglass kits for rod building as well. tight Lines and frisky fish RJF
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I'm not sure I agree with the cost observation. I built a 7 weight BX3 fly rod for %450.00 a few years back. To purchase that rod from Winston would have cost me close to $10000.00. I can build any number of high quality rods for half the price of purchasing from from the manufacturer, and that includes CTS, NFC, RodGeeks, Winston, etc. That being said, I can purchase an Ugly Stick with r
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OK, but by aligning the guides on the stiffest line at the bottom, and on the belly moving toward the tip should load the rod better on the back cast, allowing more energy to be transferred to the line. on the forward cast, much like the stronger limbs on a bow. My real question is; has anyone but on the stiffest axis, and on the belly, and which performed better, in your opinion? Tight Lines
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I have read various threads here that discuss the best way tp place guides on the rod. Some say to place the guides on the belly, while other state that placing the guides on the stiffest spine is best. Still others favor a corkscrew orientation. From an engineering standpoint, I know that the lifting power o fthe rod comes from the bottom end of the rod blank. So, a hybrid approach makes sen
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I will add that though carbon fiber is stronger per unit weight, it is also more brittle, and more easily damaged than is fiberglass. Manufacturers like CTS, Epic, Nfc, and Winston add other materials to help strengthen the blanks, and make them their blanks both stronger (more lifting power), and more resistant to brittle fracture Fast action means that a blank is highly flexible only about a
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Though it isn't designed for connecting braid to leader, I use a nail knot, only I leave the tag end of the leader very ong.Then I tie a 2nd nail knot with the tag end of the leader over the braid. Wet both knots and pull tnem together. Tighten firmly. This set up has never failed me, and is very strong..It's also easy to tie, especially with a nail knot tool. Tight lines and frisky fish.
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I have made good ice rods, with AT microwave nanolite guides that cast beautifully, and are a hoot to catch smallies, bullheads, trout, perch, etc. I used FG ice r0d blanks for their toughness. Just an out-of-the-box option for you. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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NFC is a top blanks and they are having an insane sale right now. a 4 weight mod action, normally $163.80. for $57.33. For that price, if I were in the market, I'd be buying NFC right now. There Xroy blanks are also on sale. Tight :ines and frisky fish RJF
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i love the Winston, CTS, NFC, and Epic blanks. I have not been disappointed in the quality of those products. Are you lookin fg for carbon, fiberglass, oer a composite mix of the two? My Winston is a 7 weight BIIIX, nine footer, a little large for what you want. It behaves very nicely on the water. I also have a CTSD three weight Crystal Glass that performs every bit as nicely as the Winst
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In my opinion, you get several advantages with the newer guides, whether you opt for recoil titanium, Fuji single foot , or Snake brand eco-wire guides, or other quality brands. The guides have less friction, and if sized properly to the line you will be using, produce less wear and tear on your fly line. will shoot a bit further, control, and load the rod better, Also important to yuur fly f
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Yep, I love the Microwave guides. Soooo, of course I had to enter. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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does AT make a comparable, good looking fly rod reel seat? Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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What is the recommendation for a 9 foot, 6 weight fly rod stripping guide? I will be using an American Tackle Delta Snagless guide with a Naolite insert. The guide chart on the mudhole page gives heights for A And C for the different ring sizes. The link for this guide is - I don't have a reel picked out yet, but will probably use narrow, large arbor reel for a 6 weight rod. An example
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If the blank is leaving carbon on your hands, put a coating on the entire blank before anything else. It will add a little weight, but will protect the blank. as far as how to layout you guides. , it kind of depends on what the rod will be used for. For instance, I have a good friend who is an avid fly fisherman. He swears by Winston rods, as they are a moderately fast action rod. The tip i
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I received as a gift from an employer a Daiwa fishing rod that was a combo fly/spinning rod. It had inexpensive ceramic guides. The rod spent a lot more time casting braided Dyneema than fly line. Over time, I noticed that my line seemed to be getting hung up in the tip top. close inspection revealed that the braided line actually created a grove in the tip top that created a lot of friction
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Zentron also has the added property of resisting damage due to impact with hard objects. If you bang your premium carbon-fiber rod against the side of your boat, it could very well damage the rod blank, causing catastrophic failure of the rod. Due to zentron's great tensile strength, and its igh modulus, it can be married with a thinner amount of fiberglass, making for a lighter, more powerful
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I did some research on Zentron. It is a thermoplastic that has longer fibers compared to but not nearly as brittle. carbon fiber. According to the manufacturer, this makes it superior to CF as it is comparably ngth, and toughness is supposed to make it easier to work with in pre pegs, and less expensive as well. Coupled with fiberglass. with resin, tests show that the resultant blanks are lig
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boron is a metalloid that is rare in the Earth's crust. It is mined in it's most abundant compound form, borax. Boron is used in high strength ceramics, and where structural strength can be improved by the element. It has a much higher modulus than carbon and so seemed perfect for the fishing rod industry. However, boron filaments are expensive, and due to its stiffness, hard to wrap arou
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Angler's Workshop and RodGeeks (Batson) both have 2 piece blanks. The two piece blanks from RodGeeks ar primarily fiberglass, but with carbon fiber added to the handle and lower end to add power. Check out Mudhole, XTF, and Rainshadow as well. I quick online search for 2-pice rod blanks will give you many options. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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CRB, available at Mudhole, and at Angler's Workshop (both to the left), offers many colors in reel seats as well. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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I just built a 3 weight, CTS fiberglass fly rod. This rod recovers from vibration as well as my Winston BIIIX. The Winston is a CF rod with moderately fast action, which is the same rating on the CTF FG rod. Both will lay a dry fly on the water delicately, and both are soft enough in the tip to protect a light tippet. They are both well balanced as well. My issue with CF is, as you mention
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