CTS blank that might suit your needs. It is certainty strong enough - Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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I emailed her, and he emailed this link. It sounds like it would be perfect for what you want. This isn't the most inexpensive rod out there, but it will last you a very long time. If you are interested, contact Herb by his email. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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How is this pole going to be used? What kind of fish, and how heavy? Is this a saltwater, or freshwater rod? Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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As you are not casting, I think I would personally look at fiberglass blanks for thier toughness. You can now get glass blanks that are medium fast, where they all used to be noodles. They are a touch heavier than graphite blanks, but aren't as likely to snap if the bottom bouncer happens to snag on a rock, or other underwater objects. But then again, if the line weight doesn't exceed the rod
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A site for Fuji Gujides - Be aware, there are other great guides on the market, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. If your are looking for durability, and corrosion resistance, you migt consider these - with their running guides and tip top. They are pure titanium, and so are, for all practicle purposes, indestructable, and corrosion free. Another very popular option is
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I believe stress testing the blank under load will give you what you want in guide spacing. Here's a site that has info on the bamboo blank, but I'm not seeing actual guide spaciong. I might be misreading iy. This URL focuses in specifically on the Payne 98 1 piece 4 weight - I think site will be the most helpful to you - Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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There are bamboo rods that cost over $2,000 to purchase, finished. s this rod meant to be a fun rod to throw dry flies, or a custom rod to fish, and really show off. I notice that a good many bamboo rods sport agate-insert guides, and premium reel seats. The cork handles are usually immaculate as well. You can get reel seats anywhere from about $30 for a nice one, to $600 for a scrimshawed el
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Michael Ward Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > John Cates Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > The best BBQ in > > Texas isn't made on a pit with a thermometer, > its > > made by feel, and touch and heart and soul. > > > Well, I mean that’s not even BBQ down there.... > if it’s n
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I have found no empirical evidence for either argument on this thread. I truly don't have the answer. I took it upon myself to ask for help. I contacted CTS and described the argument. I asked them if they have done testing to determine correct guide placement. Myself, I I had to guess. I would say to place the guides on the lower 2/3rds of the rod on the power axis, so as to increase its l
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This link is obviously to a Fuji Site, and will point out the Fuji hardware in the best possible light. However, Fuji is a very well respected ompany, and worth taking as look at. So here's the link - Add it to your research. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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I have built with both Fuji KR Concept, and American Tackle Microwave guides. They both cast very well, and bot risist oine knots around the guides. I haven't tried the Fuji Torzite inserts, but ratherused the SIC inserts, and on the AT, I used the duralight. They are both strong and hold up well against all kinds of lines. Has anyone done a side-by-side test to determine if one set of guid
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I disagree that finding the spine is unimportant. Please see my post on the spine thread for my reasons why. You will see where different folks will tell you to purchase an inexpensive rod blank when first starting. I disagree with that as well. A good blank will still perform better than a cheap blank, even with minor building errors. Rod building isn't as difficult as some make it seem. F
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My take on the spining of rod blanks, for what it's worth. As an electrical engineer who had to take a lot of math classes, a number of physics classes, and who understands that there are physical laws that come into play (static, stress,and vector forces), finding the spine is obviously going to make your bank behave as it should. Whether casting, feeling for that little nibble, or fighting a
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I have built several ice rods, and generally use a good quality SS fly rod tip, usually Pac Bay, or Snake brand. I haven't tried the Recoil Titanium tip tops, but have read great things about them, especially their toughness. I di something a little different for one client. I used American Tackle Microwave guides so that the rod could be cast on ponds and lakes. It worked very nicely, and al
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jim, > With the little experience I have with > media-blasting, I would suggest using walnut (or > pecan) shells. Glass beads are fairly aggressive > and will probably leave a rougher finish, although > you may prefer that. As with many rod building > operations, test, test and test again prio
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When I worked for Lockheed, one of my jobs was to prepare aluminum parts for painting (which I also did). We used a rectangular trash can, with a tall lid. One side of the lid had a square cut out of it, and a plexiglass iwndow glued over the opening. Inside were fine glass beads, and a wire hanger to hold the items that were to be treated, and the bead blasting gun. It was used to remove any
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I highly recommend you read the link provided by Tony Kirkman. It is very informative, and understandable. Ot will teach you what you need to know. Thanks, Tony, for the link. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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I have used UV cured adhesives fr everything from Fiber-optic cable termination, to my own fishing flies. The adhesives are strong, crystal clear, and can be purchased thick, or thin, flexible, or hard. Solarez is one such brand of UV adhesive. I believe that UV adhesives aren't generally used for thread wraps as they are expensive. Epoxies are much more cost effective, but require significan
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I just built on a CTS Quartz CrystalGlass blank. It behave exactly as what you describe as your customer's desired rod action. Plus, glass blanks are tougher than carbon blanks, if a bit heavier. They aren't as brittle. Contact Herb to see what kind of prices he can get you on CTS blanks. Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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At one time, I worked for a major military contractor. We used two-part epoxy that had a shelf life. If the epoxy was beyond its usable date, it was either thrown away, or given to workers. I took some home. I had broken the taillight on my can. I looked up the cost of a replacement and the cost was ridiculous. I made a mold of the taillight lens with wax. I mixed the epoxy and added oil-
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Thais for the heads-up. I en entered yesterday. Tight lines and frisky fish. RJF
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Check with Herb about CTS blanks to fill your purpose. He's great to work with. Here's a link to their popping/spinning rod blank for salt water - . tight lines and Frisky fish RJF
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I had previously used Threadmaster One, and had been pleased with the results. However, a few years down the road, with very limited use, and the main rod stored in its tube, I inspected the tread wraps, and decal covering. I noticed htat the product had begun to peel at the edges, and was easily peeled away. I decided to try Gen 4 on my newest build. I made some minor mistakes, and one not s
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Herb, can the 2 piece be cut into 4 pieces, with ferules added? Tight Lines and frisky fish RJF
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absolutely make sure that when applying the decal, whatever kind of decal you use, that you trim the decal, and round all corners. Press all of the edges firmly to the blank before removing the tape. Do not touch the decal itself. I just applied a decal purchased from Mudhole last night. I thought I followed all of the above listed precautions. When I put the epoxy on to cover, I found that
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The tip top, stripping, and the guide just forward of the stripping guide take most of the line pressure. I have never run into a grooving issue with running guides. I have had super-braided lines make grooves that definitely degraded performance in the tip top. Fui makes the hardest, smoothest guide insert available on the market- Torzite, but it is expensive. In addition to an extremely dur
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Thaks. Very good information. I'm looking forward to trying out RMNP lakes and streams. And just as an a side note, I will be teaching the father of these boys how to build rods. Between us, his better eyes, and my knowledge, I'm expecting great rods. Mine are already very nice. However, It takes me a while, and magnifying lenses, to get the wraps perfect, and the guide alignment just pe
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I am just doing research for my next rod build. I looked at a site that featured American Tackle Microwave glides, and saw that the MW12 series is designed for both casting, and fly rod applications. Has anyone used this product on a fly rod, and if so, what is your critique of the product? Tight lines and frisky fish. RJF
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MO=st important IMHO - sturdy, level, work surface with a straight edge to facilitate tape measure, and shadow free, good lighting, if possible. Everything else can be improvised, or engineered. When I started, I looked at the hand wrapping set-ups available from Mudhole.com. and other places, grabbed a saw, and some number 2 1 X 4 pine, and fabricated my own hand-wrap setup. A little felt in t
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For a tough, moderate/fast action blank with good power, have you looked at the CTS QuartzCrystal blanks. They are very strong, accurate,and dampen quickly after casting (which helps accuracy). For a glass rod, they are very light as well./ What I like about them is their toughness, and how easy they cast. I have to admit that I've built on St.Croix graphite blanks from RodGeeks, a very good
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