I am such an idiot sometimes. I absolutely know how to apply Mudhol;e text decals to a rod blank, using Scotch Tape. And yet, I now have to purchace the decal a third time, as I messed up the first two, one by installing perfectly, then tring to enhance it with abalony shell from Mudhole. I applied the shell right over part of the text, not watching close enough to what I was doing. On the se
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This site - - appears to have just what you're looking for. I hope this helps.
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I'm not sure which post it was in, but an Alps Power Wrapper user had a complaint that the spring loaded rod holders would not secure thin rod tips. I figured out the problem, and no modifications to hardware are required, only correct set up. As the swing arm holding the top wheel travels from it's furthest top position, to its furthest bottom position, it forms an arc. At about the center of
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Robert, > I grew up in Montana and for all of the fishing > that I used - those many years ago was what would > now be a 6'6" m-l moderate action in a 2 piece > blank. > > Lots and lots of fish were caught on that rod and > reel. > > The key thing about either trout,
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My new Alps Power Weapper just got here. Unfortunately, it;s too heavy for me to carry downstairs. When my son gets home from work, I'll ask him for assistance. Oh, to be twenty years younger again LOL.
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I'm thinking of building a rod for fishing in Montana lakes. Target species would include Kokanee salmon. bull trout, brown trout, whitefish, cut throats, walleye, rainbow trout, maybe even smallmouth bass. This would be a spincast rig, two piece if possible. I see multiple carbon inshore rod blanks, and one Quartz CrystalGlass blank that interest me. Any recommendations as to which CTS blan
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Thanks everyone. I suspected that Gen 4 was a solid product, and have it for my next rod build.. I just wanted to see if it lived up to its reputation in the eal world. I tried Flex-One when it first came out. After a couple of years, I noticed edges of the thread coating started to peel away from the blank. than experience problems down the road. So I figured better to ask questions
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Now that Gen 4 has been out there, and in use, has anyone any comments on its longevity, resistance to the elements, lasting strength, etc.
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I always glue my winding checks onto the blank, with the thinnest od epoxy coatings applied with a toothpick, so that it creates an invisible, water seal to prevent water getting under the grip' You maybe could get away with a silicone winding check not needing epoxy. All winding check installation instructions I've read, say that the WC should fit loosely to the grip, butting up against it, wi
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A few options for you: Hope you find something that will work
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In fly rod casting. I was taught that the elbow is the pivot point. The upper arm stays relatively straight, but does assist. The forearm is used to raise the rod tip, lifting the line from the water, eliminatging drag. As the back cast progresses, the line is accelerated backwards. At the end of the stroke, the wrist is snapped back, accelerating the line, and producing a tight loop. When
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I need the power wrapper as the hand wrapper I put together is in Michigan, while I'm in Montana. I do well with a power wrapper. It saves me a great deal of time, and I love it for drying the epoxy thread coating.. As far as borrowing one, I'm new to the area I'm now living in, and don't know anyone in H elena to borrow one from.
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In my last post, I meant back order yo mid-August. And I do understand the bottlenecks in business. I'm just wanting to get these rods built. And thanks everyone.
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Premium is not determined by price. Yes, a Winston, or Sage blank is premium, at$450, and up for the blanks, CTS, and Epic are also premium, for between $200, to $300 per blank. and if you like fiberglass, Echo produces Premium for even less. Do the research on blanks that look promising. Look for reviews, both here, and on other fishing sites. Yes, you get what you pay for, but sometimes,
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Heavy sigh. I just got hold of GetBit on the phone. The Alps Power Wrapper is on back-order from Batson until mid July. I still loke the looks of the unit, but this sure slows me down. I believe I chose the best product within my price range.
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How long does it usually take for GetBit to deliver an Alps Power Wrapper. I ordered and paid for one back on July 15, and have not even received an email stating that it's been shipped yet. I tried emailing the email address on the emaied receipt, asking ETA and have heard nothing back yet. I have two builds waiting on that wrapper. This is frustrating.
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Also late to this discussion. Another few great options, again in tungsten, are these: Each of these will add toxic free weight where you need it.
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What is the target species. For pan fish, there are economical and work fantastic - . I built 7 ice rods on them, and never had one fail. For bass, and walleye, I like these - . Again never had one break on me. For large game fish, such as lake trout, salmon, musky, etc. I'd opt for something more durable, like this - []. I've also built on the economy fiberglass blanks from Mudhole with g
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I'm thinking 6 to 7 foot, equivalent of an 8 weight fly rod.
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I have a potential customer fot a canal rod. The power canal in Sault Ste Marie, Mi, is 20 foot deep, an 8th mile wide, with a continuous 7 MPH current. It holds whitefish, carp, King salmon. coho,, and the occasional lake trout, and steelhead. The rod needs to be strong enough to pill in a King against that current, maybe lifting it up an embankment. The rod will be either a spin cast, or bait
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I caught a big Chinook on th St. Mary's river, next to the powerhouse in Sault Ste Marie, MI., several years back. I was using a $15 glass pole I'd purchased 15 years before, with a Mitchel 300 reel, and 15 lb, mono-filament line. The rod creaked and groaned, and the reel was a bear to wind. But the fish was landed, and the tackle held up with no damage. The right fiberglass rod is just plain
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Herb, tis is a question that I'm not sure you can answer. Both CTS, and Epic are rod companies with stellar reputations. Any idea why I never see them in shootouts where they might be tested against a scottk Sage, Orvis, etc/ I would like to hear some comparison's bt people who test, and report such things. I love my CTS 3 weight, but have really never fished it against any other three weight
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Science All objects at rest will remain st rest unless acted upon by some other force. All objects in motion will remain in motion, at a constant velocity and direction unless acted upon by some other force. Tht being said, for this discussion,the object is the lure, At the beginning of the forward cast, with the line behind the forward direction if the cast, that lure, for this purpose of ex
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CRB Upgraded Thread Carriage with Alps power wrapper, are they compatible?
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I built a CTSquartzCrysal 3 weight, 7'6" rod using a snake guide kit from CTS. The rod casts, and performs beatifully. Take a look at their site. Also, Herb Leaderman. on rodbuilding . org, is a great resource for CTS products. The guide kits take the guess work out of the equation. You will need to be able to give the tip, and butt diameter for you blank.
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Hi Herb. I'm looking to purchase an affinity X, satin blue, 4-setion, 9 foot, 8weight blank. I priced it at CTS for $300,00.. Please contact me at g.w.north@hotmail.com. This will be used for big Montana browns on Montana rivers. I ;ook forwrd to hearing from you. My email is - g.w.north@hotm
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Anyone using tfurled Silk leaders on their fly rods? From the reviews I've read, they appear to be superior for laying down a dry fly delicately, and are very strong. A plus for me is that they are biodegradable.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Flexibility may be more important than weight for > rod performance. The more flexible a rod is the > faster it can push the line after the caster > releases it. The stored energy from springiness of > the rod, not the weight of the rod, makes a rod > cast farther and more accurately. Ther
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I have seen where dental spatulas are used to ally the thread coat. The person who did it had very nice thread coats. Tight lines and frisky fish. RJF
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I understand the pulling part the rod plays: The > rod pulls the lure faster as long as I pull the > rod faster - I can feel the energy I expend > pulling the rod forward. I still can't understand > how, after I release the line, the rod's stored > energy pushes the line and lure forward - but
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