As I have a rod case for my CRS 3 weight, but not for my Winston BXIII 7 weight fly rod, I took the 3 weight to a large grassy field to practice my casting, and improve my double haul. Ther was a fairly steady 20 mph breeze blowing. The light line, and light rod just didn't have the power to fight through the wind. During the brief periods when the wind abated, I could nearly throw the full fl
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Note: > If one really wants to hold a small rod blank, one > can purchase an extra pair of chuck jaws that have > pointed tips which will allow the chuck to hold > even tiny rods. But, that is a very rare event > and the larger ends on the jaws with an inner > facing concave jaws, does a w
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I purchased an Alps that works very nicely. The only issue I've had with it is that the chuck jaws won't tighten small enough to hold the the very thin rod tip. I had to build a little arbor of masking tape to get it to hold. However, you normally wouldn't be trying to place that end into a chuck. Other than that, It's been a solid unit.
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I will always try to help by sharing any knowledge I have. It's my nature. There were some who posted that they wanted more info. Those of us who responded, and tried to give requested info, in my book, are doing things right, in spite of the reasons Phil is opening these threads. That's my view.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > All rods will flex deeply into the butt area once > enough load has been applied to them. This is why > action is considered as being where the rod > INITIALLY flexes. Taper is perhaps the greatest > factor in terms of rod action. Action is not > influenced by the material used to build the rod
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a po. It's the only 72minch rod I could find for ice fishing. - Hope that helps.
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I was refering to rod speed ast tip speed, or the speed that tht rid tip moves from point a to point b during the cast. Rod action, is described by the rod makers as fast, medium fast, slow, etc, and is what you are refering to, and is governed by the stiffness of the blank along its blank at various points. Fast rods have very little bend from the butt to 2/3rds of the wayto the tip. Slow rod
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Rod speed is irrelevant. It changes with very cast, and is a function of two references, the rod length, and the speed of blank rotation provided by the caster. The caster changes casting speed based on target distance. Rod , action, as stated above, is usually identified by the terms fast, extra fast, slow, moderate fast, etc. describes where the rod flexes under load. It's that simple.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The speed a rod develops is entirely produced by > the caster. There is no magic source of energy in > a fish pole - or we would replace engines and > motors with fish poles. You are correct. All of the energy is supplied by the caster. However, since the rod blank is a spring, it stores, and rele
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Personally, I prefer Hitena silk thread, followed by Fuji Ultra Poly thread, both in size A. I like the way the silk thread lays, and burnishes into a smooth finish. If I want, I can do invisible wraps. It does require CP for the colored threads. The Fuji is also a premium thread that just works, is strong, and easy to work with.
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Phil, I'm surprised at that question. The line has been cast backward and follows Newtonian rules of motion, in this case, paraphrasing here, any object at rest will maintain at rest unless acted upon by some force. Part 2 - an object at rest is in a state of potential energy. Part 3 - for every action, there is an opposite, and equal reaction. Imagine standing with a bowling ball in on
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > First off, I wasn't referring to you in my post. > Second, yes I have made mistakes, many of them. > But when the person who runs the forum says it is > working fine and a user insists that some sort of > shenanigans or arbitrary upset is occurring in a > system that cannot do such things you ca
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Mike Ballard Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > And once again.... user error! Ah yes, user error, and by an electrical engineer, gasp. I guess I'm only mortal after all, heh, heh. So Mike, I have to ask; Have you ever made an error? (Imagine mischievous grin)
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I have recieved very good treatment from CTF. A section of my latest rod blank from them came with a manufacturer's defect. I contacted Herb, a member of this board. He gave me instructions for getting the problem solved, and contacted a CTS rep for me. He forwarded the correspondence. The are replacing the bad section for free, as soon as I can mail them the bad part. If they have the glas
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I found my issue and can now upload pictures. I did go to the email sent to me after registering. However, I didn't respond correctly. So I went back, and found the email again. I copied, and pasted the URL, and hit enter. I logged back into pictures, and the upload button is there. I uploaded picture with the name - RJF under the Guide Wraps category. I hope someone takes a peak, and l
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I log onto the photo site, and the uploasd button never shows, even after refreshing. And yes, I registered, and went to the email to activate my registration.
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I like both my CTS. and Winston better. They don't oacillate hardly at all after the casting motion, which means that the oscillations won't affect accuracy, or distance. That being said, the rod is well ballanced, and loads easily.
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OK, I read the rules, but don't see the procedure for actually inserting a picture. I'm getting too old for this.
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My latest build is complete, a RodGeeks Carbon 4, 9 foot 8 weight FA rod. It came out nice, coupled with a Lamson Guru, Series tow reel, Orvis gel spun backing, Airflo Kelly Galloup Streamer Max Long Fly Line, SA sinking leader, and Rio fluorocarbon tippet, all on the reel with the correct knots. Ok, I followed the instructions and registered on the Photos page, but can't seem to figure out h
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Echo vs Lamson, what;s your opinions?
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According to this vendor - ,. the FT tip top - "The tube I/D size can be customized to meet your specifications" Might be worth it to contact them.
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Yes, I will be using the Albright not in the future. Another advantage of the Albright is that it is a modification of a knot I learned in boy scouts, and have been using to join different diameter ropes for years, called the sheepshank, or Becket, or double Becket knot. It's a very strong knot.
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Due to large diameter differences, tying a blood knot between Cortland Premium #4 fluorocarbon Tippet, and Scientific Anglers Sonar 10 foot leaders is a pain. the leader just doesn't want to form proper loops on the tippet when pulling everything tight. After much effort, and line coaxing, I got a pretty 5-wrap blood knot. It will go through the guised beautifully. Any tips for making this e
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I cut slivers of hot melt glue and push them into thr tip top tube. I heat the tip top until the glue melts, and flows completely into the tp top tube. I the apply a small amount of hot melt onto the rod tip. I heat the tip top until the glue again melts, and push the rod tip into the tip top, making sure it is aligned properly. Let it cool, test by twisting a bit. Never had one fail.
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The RodGeeks rod is for my son's dental practice, as a give-away to attract customers, much like banks give away shotguns. He is good for the money. There is no one on this planet with more integrity,and honesty in his dealings. The completed rod is a Carbon 4 9' 8 weight. It is very nice. I was surprised at how much oscillation there is in the tip, though it's far better than a big box store
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chris c nash Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > "Originally, it was destined to be a high-end rod, > worth over $100 bucks when completed" > > > A scratching head emoji . Oh the components were all Nickle chrome reel seats, Snake brad Eco Coated snake guides. an agate striping guide, personalized rod case, personalized rod decal
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Just recieved my new blank. Originally, it was destined to be a high-end rod, worth over $100 bucks when completed. But the individual who wanted it is taking the RodGeeks rod I'm just completing,. With completed rod, Lamson reels, GSP backing, Airflow Line and leader. fluorocarbon tippet, and case,, all put together with tax, and my hourly rate, this is still a $700+ rod. Now I need to find
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Dode anyone have experience with Fuji Ultra Poly Fishing Rod Wrapping Thread. Are the colors vibrant? Do they look good over dark rod blanks? Are they basically nub free.? Do they lay well, and create a smooth wrap.? Do they need CP? Inquiring mind want to know.
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Update": Just watched a Mudhole Youtube video for using the abalone inlay material. After measuring, and cutting to the correct size, it needs to be soaked in boiling water that has just been removed from the stove, for about 5 minutes, or until the baking begins to separate. The, you remove the backing completely, and the inlay material is flexible enough to wrap around the rod blank wit
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I purchased a sheet of abalone from Mudhole, in a dark blue. It is gorgeous. I wanted to use it as a rod skin, but found that /if I try and wrap it around the rod blank, the abalone cracks, and starts flaking off of the adhesive, rendering it useless. I still have most of the sheet, and would like to use it for something where it would be decorative, and not subject to a lot of stress. Any i
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