David Baylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It's getting deep ..... It may look deep, but every word is true. I received my first BB gun at age 8, my first bow at age 7. I terrorized squirrels, and copper-bellies in the forests surrounding where we lived. Go ahead and spend 2 to three hours a day honing your shouting skills. You will be amazed what yo
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Joe Vanfossen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There is a lot to unpack in this thread. > > Accuracy refers to the weighted center of a > grouping of data points and that precision refers > to the standard deviation of the data points. In > Aaron's description, replace consistent with > precise. A firearm shoots in the direction that
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Parabolas can be deep, or shallow. Old radar antennas are parabolic in shape. Examples of parabolic antennas, Old satellite dishes, radar dishes, parabolic reflators in solar heating applications. No fishing rod I've ever seen bends into a true parabola. Rather it starts flexing most deeply near the tip, and progressively less as it moves toward the butt. In fishing blank vernacular, a par
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RodGeeks offers S-Glass rod blanks that might be what you're looking for. I have built on their fly rod, and carbon blanks, and found them to be of high quality, especially for the price point. They have limited length options though, a little over 7 foot for the spinning, and 9 foot for the trolling blanks. I see also that Mudhole offers MHX brand FG blanks, but I know very little about the
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I have very good low speed control with my Alps power wrapper as well. I do thing the Flexcoat has a better thread carriage. Other than that, and the slip clutch, I see very little difference. Both are well made.
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I get no bubbles with Gen 4 epoxy. And it's tough as nails, and crystal clear.
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Tried the mild heat on the cured Gen 4. It did nothing. I spent 3 more hours today, and finally got the guide, and all epoxy off of the blank. Didn't damage he blank. To hide the cosmetic imperfections left over, I joined the two sections together, and laid a clean thread wrap about 2 inches back from the section joint, to a1/16thof an inch before the joint. Then I mixed up another ml of e
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Unfortunately, in many of my jobs in the work place if work wasn't perfect, lives could be lost. Solder joints had to be perfect, ,Measures to prevent electrostatic discharge had to be strictly observed. I worked in Aviation Electronics repair for U.S. Navy, and with General Dynamics, and on the U.S. Navy's Deep Submersible Rescue Vehicle when I worked for Lockheed. Failures caused by a cold
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Could they be the result of popping bubbles? Have you tried mildly heating uu epoxy after the application, to cause bubbles to release faster? To hide the problem, add a little coloring powder to Gen 4 epoxy, stir it well, and use as a final coat. This will fill in, and hide the previous imperfections.
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Well I just spent 2 hours trying to remove that stripping guide. It's still not off. I followed the directions from the Youtube video, where the guy uses a one sided razor blade to remove the epoxy from the top of the guide foot only, to protect the blank. He the was able to capture some thread and just easily peel away the remaining epoxy. Let me tell you, Gen 4 is tough stuff. I couldn't p
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Found a couple Toutube videos showing how to remove the epoxy and blank. It doesn't look so hard. We'll see.
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I am a very educated dummy. Well, I figured out the thread carriage issue, made a few test wraps, and the wrapper wraps fast and clean. Yay! I put the second section from the butt onto the but section, after wrapping on the stripper guide and epoxying the wrap yesterday afternoon. It turns out that I'm a hair or two too close to the joint,. The epoxy on the guide foot keeps the two sections
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Are there any videos for properly setting up the thread carriage on the Alps Power wrapper, and setting the proper tension. My sled moves very freely, and I believe it's set up correctly but I have significant problems with the wrapping thread jumping backwards with relation to the direction I'm wrapping in. This causes me to have to unwind thread, correct, and rewind. My eyes aren't what they
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I'm thinking a coping saw, with a fine tooth blade will generate the lest amount of heat, as the blade width is so narrow that there is little contact to create friction. As others have stated, wrap a piece of masking tape around the tube to act as a guide. Then, cut from the top down just until you start cutting through the tube wall. Turn, and repeat. As you cut just the surface downward, i
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I too am a CTS fan. The Air blank, comes in at $150 for the 7'6" length with sanded finish. Of course, that's just the blank price. You'd have to still get all of the grips, and hardware.
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I did some research. Plasma deposition when used with oxygen at particular frequencies, and wattage, deposited more uniform coatings of desired material to the silicone wafers, and E-glass fibers, increasing the shear strength of both,m as well as increasing the hardness, and reducing friction.. Plasma deposition allowed the testers to change the thickness of the Nano coating by varying frequ
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Wole up at 2 a.m. and couldn't get back to sleep. Laid down thread wraps before the winding check to make a smooth transiting, and waterproof the end. Put on the hook keeper as well. Put on the Gem 4 first coat, and all turned transparent, as I'd hoped it would. So far, so good.
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I received my CYS Affinity X blank a couple weeks back. It's an 8 weight, 9 foot blank. One of the sections had a manufacture defect, and I sent it back to CTS at the end of last week. I hope to get the replacement section back soon. I got my cork handle, reel seat, fighting butt, and snake guides through the mail yesterday. I'm using black, REC titanium snake guides, and a black Fuji stripp
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I wonder if UV40 cork seal would protect unsterilized wood handles/inserts.
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I would think rod frequency would affect casting distance, and accuracy. Rod power will determine hook set,. soft mouthed fish can have the hook ripped through thier mouths with too much power. Conversely, not enough power will not allow the hook oint to penetrate the mouth of other, hard mouthed species. How stiff the tip is also plays a role, as does action. Actions that force the rod to ca
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > roger: You said it: ". . . the differences are > wha's to hide. If one product is not different > from another, there would be no reason to buy one > product compared to another product." I don't > follow. You seem to propose rod retailers hide how > their products differ from others!
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Try one ofteh RB sponsors that in grips, such as - , Contact them with what you are looking for.
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In fly-casting after the line has cleared the > tip-top the rod can't steer the end of the line > up, down, or sideways, even though some claim a > really good rod can push a line forwards. BTW: The > "rod strength" does not turn over the fly. The > speed and mass of the line/leader d
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Can you include a heat tent that can drop down to facilitate better curing time, should the nights get cold? If it were me, I'd use a center bench, with wrapper/late on one side, and multi-pole dryer on the other, On another wall, have a bench for other, sometimes required tools, such as sander, Dremel rotary tool, Allen wrenches, etc. I'd also put my fly tying tools on that bench. And I agr
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Spencer,i was just thinking about what you just > wrote..my first build back in the sixtys was a fly > rod herters kit about a 4# or some kind of level > line..it still performs quite well and looks like > any 71/2 foot glass rod made today..all i ever did > to it was change the line to a new tape
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The caster, the fly line, and the leader determine how the fly alights on the water, > just as they determine the direction and length of > the cast. IB believe the rod has something to do with it as well as the caster. If I'm trying to cast a Griffith's Gnat, size 22 hook, onto a piece of small strea
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From what read about CSS, rod seed = reaction/recovery time of the rod blank. To me, this means that a faster rod speed will more quickly transfer energy applied by the caster to the line, and that at the end of the casting stroke, will dampen oscillations faster. This will allow the line to cast further with the same effort than a rod with a slower speed. More energy to the line, and less fri
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Michael Sutheimer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have taken this to an extreme. I fish a lot of > very small streams in northern Wisconsin for brook > trout. I am a spinner and bait guy. Fly fishing > would limit you to seriously about ten percent of > the streams.Have several general use rods. I could > do most everything fairly well w
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Phi;, I understand your frustration, and don't think you are baiting us. I too wish that there were better, more reliable descriptions. I have a friend who loves Winston rods, as the soft tip action protect the Tippet. He also loves the feedback he gets from the rod on both the back, and forward casts. However, though he is an experienced, and successful fly fisherman, he could not accurately
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Robert, > I use Taig 3 inch 3 and 4 jaw chucks: > > > sories/general-parts/page/5/ > > I use the reversible aluminum soft jaws when > working on rods: > > > > Notice, if I put the jaws on the chuck with the > points of the jaws facing inward, the points of &
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