For your build I’d use the high belly guide layout (16H, 8H, 6M, 5.5M) with 4.5 runners to accommodate casting those light lures. The last spinning rod I built using the high belly guide out casts my 3 reduction guide setup with the same size runners. The rods I compared used the 25H, 12H, 7L (add a 8M for the high belly guide train) with size 6 runners. 20lbs braid and 20lbs leader with the same
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Fuji’s guide spacing chart…
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Nice work! What handle length did you end up with?
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You can get a RV6 guide set for $55.00 and top for $10 from Japan []
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Never mind the leader question, I see now. 25lbs leader is the max for the size 6 running guides, if you go heavier with your leaders you need to increase guide sizes, or use a short leader that stays outside the tip-top.
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My guide train would be… RV25, KL12, KL8M, KL7L, KT6 runners. If I really wanted to use the RV16… RV25, RV16, KL12, KT10, KT7 runners. Do you connect a leader to your braid?
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I’m a fan of NFC’s soft touch grips, I haven’t used any cork or EVA after using my first set.
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The total amount of guides would be 11 plus the tip-top for a 10’ rod. It is determined by the length +1.
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This is the info to find guide placement for you particular reel.
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Above are the recommended guides you should use for your purpose. You can use size 7 runners and tip-top if you want to.
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Thanks for sharing, I’ll have to start testing the difference on my next builds.
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Personally I don’t sand my guides, I’m not that particular.
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I’m on board for cleaning all equipment after saltwater fishing, I clean everything I used that day with freshwater. I was asking if epoxy seals the exposed metal on the foot protecting it from corrosion. So if he sanded it and removed the protective coating it shouldn’t matter as long as the exposed area is sealed.
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Will the epoxy form an airtight seal protecting the foot from contamination and corrosion?
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The 2 Rodgeeks blanks I got early this year both came with decals. I think the decals look cheesy so I had some made elsewhere. Also, the shipping was fast, I got them within a week.
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You could cling wrap around the threads to minimize dust until your ready. Then, before applying finish us the tack cloth to remove anything that got through.
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It does get tight on larger worm hooks after a couple coats of epoxy. I’d say 3/0 and above, but It works good for securing the DS weight or the smaller fine-wire hooks. The way you had it looks like it would cause the hook to snap into the keeper after the epoxy but if your using this for securing the line at the weight it would work.
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I’m getting it now… the graph is just a visual reference for comparison purposes, the letters and numbers being arbitrary, and the 854.86 is the blank model. Thank you.
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I understand what your saying David. The pictured chart is from NFC and I was wondering what do the numbers and letters represent. From the comments I assume they mean nothing just their to look “technical” and to show the bend of the blank.
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Can someone explain how to interpret a deflection chart? I understand they used a 12oz weight and that’s it.
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I’ve built a MB703 that would handle small spinners but no experience with the MB692, I would think it would work fine. Personally I’d use a CRB color-series blank for the color option.
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You may have success with car scratch remover with several applications. It may remove the thin clear coat without destroying the paint underneath.
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I use a heat gun to soften the epoxy then use a razor blade to cut the threads off the guide foot. Once the threads are cut I peel back the edges, as much as possible, then using a dull knife I scrap until I have to heat and repeat. A dull blade Is less likely to damage the blank when removing the epoxy, but I still haven’t had a perfect finish after removal.
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When placing the butt guide at 0° you’ll notice that the line will hug one side of the guide for 90% of the retrieve, causing the line to stack to one side. By offsetting the butt guide it reduces this effect 100% of the time. I mostly fish for ditch pickles, but I also enjoy a spiral wrapped casting rod.
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Came across this EZ thread from fuji, I was wondering if this is a new offering? or old, and if old does anyone use it?
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WD40 Dry Lube with PTFE might be a good alternative.
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I’m curious to which system you used to find this out. Besides that, any of those sizes would work for 14lbs mono line. From what I gather the choke guide would be a running guide not a reduction guide. To me the XYTLG’s are reduction style guide’s so the XPFLLG 7 would be my choice. Can you share the guide train you plan to use from butt to tip?
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Ohh, to answer your question I like them all.
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