By no means, am I the expert in the room, but if you’re using all the same components and the same reels, but different blanks, the taper of the blank would possibly change the spacing of the guides.
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Joe, I hope it’s not too late but I think everybody’s saying to use the 10
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The odd thing I in-vision when dropping from size 12 to 10 would be the progressive spacing would be off, If you’re following the straight line path from the butt guide to the choke guide. if you don’t care about that then it wouldn’t be an issue. The first handful of KR Concept builds I used the calculator from Anglers Resource and they came out perfectly fine, but once I found the instructions
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Here’s a chart
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Micheal - I should have said… one more thing to cause wear.
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The diagram is Fuji’s recommendation for 7’6” heavy power rods.
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You said it yourself “The 10 may have the advantage of a few feet”… the 7 adds more friction causing short casting distances, friction also causes line wear. Whatever size you use the line should flow as close as possible to the top of the guide ring. The picture shows the spot the line should contact (pink dot). Placement should fall around 19.5ish inches, 21” is good. Of course it’s your buil
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Ray, that’s the same info… in english! I saved it. Thanks for that.
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ProWrap Nylon “Storm Cloud” blends pretty good, a tad darker but very close.
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I found it on Fuji’s Japan site… you’ll need to use google translate unless your fluent in Japanese. The pic I always post I had google translate and saved to my phone for reference.
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Some info…
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This is Fuji’s Ultra Poly NOCP in White on a clear coated blank, not a black blank. I could have packed the treads better but this is my old surf rod I replaced the guides on.
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I’m going to build it inline with the seat, I just noticed this while messing around. All my other spinning rods fish fine.
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Geez, I use flex coat high build only using 2ml of each part… usually have more than needed for my rods. I always do a second coat.
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On my current build, I mounted the reel after aligning the guides and noticed my grip twists the rod a bit, making the guides look off center. I don’t think it will affect much but I wonder if anyone has aligned guides according to the twist created by the reel and your personal grip? If so what’s your experience?
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Ream one end then ream the other end to fit. Any imperfections/gaps will fill with glue when you build it.
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Roll the blank on a hard surface until the tip is at the highest point then put guides on top (casting) or on bottom (spinning). The weight of the guides will reduce the curve somewhat, maybe all of it. I build on the spine for my personal builds but the spine is rarely the straightest axis. If I want the rod to look straight I build on the straightest axis.
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I’d say ditch the frog and use poppers and Zara spooks.
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I’ve only built on the Bass 4 series and currently building a 7’10 Bass 3 for my bro-in-law. I kinda went on a NFC buying spree for a while but now back to RG for my latest 2 builds (I wanted some painted blanks). I forgot how nice the RG blanks are. I suggest the Carbon 2 for the price and if it’s going to be tossed around by a kid you don’t need to invest too much into the build. I jus t reme
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Step 5. Link to original, it’s in Japanese.
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Step 5..
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Step 4…
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Step 3…
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Step 2…
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Here’s Fuji’s “How To” info for casting rod layouts. Step 1…
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Here’s a couple fuji guide spec’s for a 7’ rod.
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An all purpose rod to me is a 7’ medium fast. Rodgeeks have nice blanks for whatever price you want to spend and you can choose from a few colors. The metallic colors are very nice.
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You can use the RV6 instead of the KW10 if you want.
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This is the Fuji KR Concept recommendations for casting rods
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According to Norman’s link to Jims KW info, Jim says to stick with the 30 butt when using heavy braid.
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