Well, I think Mr Richards did call it on 12/11/2006 when he said "...you'll soon see some new colors, trust me :-) DR "
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a friend of mine has a cabelas rod with a double-trigger, with a double blank-thru, reel seat and wanted a custom rod with one. This is the 1st i've seen of something close...it seems to have the double trigger, but still only a single blank-thru design.
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sorry Tim...no, I meant I retreive RH but have been trying to reteach myself LH.... with a lot of neurological resistance...
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Unfortunately, I learned to cast RH on both spinning and casting reel types and find it very awkward to switch. I've been trying to 're-teach' myself to cast LH since early last year, with little progress. Time will tell I suppose.
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Unfortunately, I have yet to find the combination to TM as I get more bubbles no matter what I try than I do with FC under the same conditions...I dont know why, I just do. I know it must be me, , the one in a million chance of it not working, 'cause everyone else is getting such good results. For several several several months now, when I've needed to finish, I 1st mix up some TM and...bubbles g
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Thanks guys, that was very informative as per usual. I'm gonna pick up 2, one for by 4 y/o and 1 for my 5 y/o....ok, and maybe a 3rd for me - its like a blast from the past and sounds from Mikes explanation like it could be a lot of fun.
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Forgive my ignorance here, but it's been a long time since I used one of these and it was one of those old closed face zebco's that I learned on. It was mounted topside, like a baitcast reel. I noticed some "newer" models today with longer necks and a trigger lever rather than a thumb press, that look like they'd be better off mounted bottomside, like a spinning reel. Is this correct, o
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I just glued up 2 rods with those (gloomis) super sticker components tonight. They ream like plastic (graphite?) and exhibit some pretty noticeable parting lines. I thought I'd save some time and got them with the cork insert, but ended up having to shave the cork down on one to get it flush with the seat (it was off quite a bit). If I go this route again, I'll probably just make my own insert.
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,
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I'd love to know how factory rod workers deal with this. I can't imagine them touching up even the occasional rod, and yet I dont recall seeing this on a factory rod; and so maybe they have a better process, or a method of prevention.
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Meniscus cracking sometimes happens on single foot guides, where the epoxy wicks up the leg. A final touch-up step I've added after applying the finish is to pull a piece of thread along that area to remove excess epoxy that may have wicked up the leg before it forms a meniscus. It seems to help.
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Try to gat a blade with a thickness as close to the slot size (kerf) in the jig as possible. I got a japanese back cut saw which cuts real nice and clean, but the blade was so thin compared to the slot size that my initial cuts were'nt very straight - because I wasnt so good at this and there was too much play within the slot size for the blade to wander...and it did! After a while (for me as a n
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I watched an ex bass circuit pro, who is now into carp, haul in a 21 lb carp last summer from a local pond. The rod was a heavy medium action 9 footer as I recall. He lopped a fairly small and weighted but light bait like he was surf casting, and let it bottom sit while he watched for bubbles. He rested the rod into a stand (I think it supported the rod more in the upper end, but I dont recall).
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I just went thru something similar with the 1st rod I built, except I was removing a football size clump of the worst marbled epoxy job you could imagine (they did come out better after that...but the 1st was the worst!). The problem was similar in that after removing the marble, the blank finish in that area didnt match the rest of the rod. It wasnt a simple matter of "sanding" or smoo
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Hey Derek. I used to live in Petaluma, just south of you; though mostly I haunted Cotati, at Spanky's, and frequented the Russian River, Stafford lake or lake Sonoma for afternoon and weekend fishing.
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So now you can turn your cork , and eat it too.
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Thanks a lot. That worked as advertised. I cant seem to get the surface nice and uniformly 'clean', but it aint a big bulky mass anymore. I'l either try a very light sanding and finish, or recoat with marble again...lighter this time!
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I'd like to rework my 1st rod. Just in the front of the foregrip, I created a huge marbled area mess. Globbed on several layers of colored epoxy, covering up initial layers I didnt like, and so on until it was built up thicker than the foregrip for crying out loud. Its well cured, 3+ years now. No thread under. I've removed plenty of guides before, but never straight epoxy. Will it still come up
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Excellent!
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I dunno, none of these really give me incentive to read the add or "go custom". I would probably just flip the page. Something like "custom or bust", with a picture of a pouting gal with a busted baitcaster might catch my attention. Could even be a lead in to that article on page 96 titled "why spiral?"
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Someone mentioned that the 15 degree offset in the super sticker handles were more comfortable. What's offset? The trigger? Whats the basis for the 15 degrees? Hand angle?
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I'm gonna order one to try. What is the idea of the 15 degree offset? What direction and in relation to what is it offset (to the left, to the right, or some other direction from what)? Is that the 'comfort' angle of the hand on the reel when casting? or when reeling?
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I'm no expert but.....everytime you squeeze out some pg, your going to leave a thin film on the surfaces through which it flows; and unless you remove it *all* its going to dry and stick and clog somewhere along the line. Hence the problem with the original plastic cap breaking on the bottles after a few uses.
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mudhole has a black/orange classic twist fro gudebrod...dunno if its the one your taling about though.
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Regarding the comment "For me the most difficult wrap is the tip top to the blank...". Check this support tool out, maybe it will help:
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Thanks a bunch Lynn. I musta looked for it in RM V9-2 ten times yesterday, and still missed it! Thanks Bill. Not really having problems with waterslides, since I read the RM article some time ago. But I recently decided to post standard work articles from certain sources (RM articles, the library or the glossary on this site, and postings from known "subject matter experts") that are
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I could have sworn I read a RM article with tips on waterslides, but I can find it. Anyone know the issue#? I searched the library and prior posts but could only find the inkjet label article. I know there's instructions at Decal Connection as well, but I seemed to recall there were some additional tips in the article.
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I tried a search for cork tape, no quotes, and simply selected "exact phrase" from the drop down. Worked perfectly.
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Is this different than the booklet sold at the show last year?
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Hi Michael - There's a lamiglass listed at the following link with the same model#....very bottom of page.
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