Now you've got me worrying. I did a weave the other day and havent had the time to apply the finish yet. I dont normally let them sit too long before applying finish, but this time it was unaviodable (poor planing on my part). Its got pretty humid down there in the shop. Do I need to be concerned about driving out moisture somehow (?) from the threads before applying finish, because I've let it s
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I finished shaping a cork grip and went to turn the back end down to size to fit into a cap. I had the size real close, so tried to fit the cap on. It went on too tight. No problem, I'll just turn it down slightly more. When I pulled, the cork broke off inside the cap. I guess I could just make a bit shorter. But I'm preparing another grip...or can I salvage it by gluing it together with rod bon
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Curiously I have a reel that fits snugly, almost nicely, in a DPSD-16G seat, but wont fit at all in a DNPSM-16G seat. I've also got a number of older DPS-16 seats that it wont fit - the thread portion on the seat is shorter.
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The only thing I found was a yellow perch weave pattern available from mudhole, and a digital drawing on a clip art web site. Could maybe tackle the weave. Or I wonder how printing the clip art and making a label like in the last RM would work.
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I'm trying to learn repairs. If I'm doing this correctly (?), I need to use lower moduls blanks for sleeves, and plugs, to ensure I dont increase the stiffness. Is fiberglass always lower than graphite? Also, is there a way to determine the modulus of small (graphite, or fiberglass) scrap blank sections that are no longer labeled or traceable to their original manufacture?
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Timing is everything. I know the subject here is spinning seats, but I was also looking to customize casting seats. I wanted to combine a skeleton seat, with my own insert, and a trigger. I know I've seen just the triggers being sold someplace (I'm guessing you screw and/or glue them in place?) but I'm having trouble finding them now...can someone point me to a sponsor that migt carry them...when
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Hmnn...good point. Thanks
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The article suggests having the customer find a dowel diameter they like, and then wrap clay around a dowel somewhat smaller than that and have the customer hold it like they would when casting but tight enough to make an impression of their hand in the clay. Then measure where the dips and valleys, etc are and use this to shape their grip. It sounded like a good way to custom fit the grip to the
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I stumbled on this article for shaping grips based on a mold of the hand in clay around a dowel. Does anyone really do this, or do most of you just stick with typical shapes/sizes? Is there a RM article addressing fitting?
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I didnt know you guys knew such about this part of the world. I drive by the GB building nearly dvery day; the Squire is still open in Revere, I think Hilltop will never be the same, but the Newbridge cafe in chelsea cant be beat for steak tips (next time you in the area, look me up we'll go there I'll buy ya one or two). You can still go surf casting from red rock and hawl in a lotta good size s
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Huh. I just found some great layouts thru a google search, which eventually brought me back full circle to a link on the left from pac bay:
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Thanks Mike - It was emailed to me.
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"....all of the ones in the link above...." What link above? Are you talking about the Supplier links, or something else? Thanks in advance
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Is there a resource/listing of different shapes and type with example pics or sketches? I have many assembled from from my issues of RM, and some from supplier sites (but I'm having to measure and add the dimensions myself to most), and was wondering if I'm reinventing the wheel or if there are others I might be able to find to make it more complete. Purpose is for use by potential clients in
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I like to use a single short ring of cork, ground down to a small "button" size, glued to the blank and the open end of the reel seat, and coated with true oil. Not a recommendation, not even a suggestion, just what I like.
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Even Einstein believed the world was flat. There were probably just as many tests to prove it.
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I prefer the u-shaped on my own rods. I think the folding ones are a nuisance and highly impractical. Clients luv ''em though.
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While you're on the subject of making lables per the RM article, I thought I'd mentione I tried it and love it!! One thing I did do differently thought is instead of wrapping around a dowel over night before applying, I rolled it and put it inside the end of a blank. Worked out nice and I didnt need any tape to secure it in place. Not a suggestion, not even a recommendation, just a comment.
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I've used the size 8 fuji alconite bridge guide on several rods...all with the forhan wrap. No problems with them becoming loose/falling off. I just checked them and they are fine. I will say that I do have the darndest time with the forhan wrap on this particular guide, but they're tight just the same.
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I've managed 2 pistol grip rods so far but its very awkard. Was wondonering if there's a better way. Do you glue the grip on before wrapping guides? If not, how do you secure the grip and reel (temporarily) for guide placement, and static and casting test tests? If so, how do you secure/center the butt of grip in the rod chuck, and how do you balance it during wrapping (do you think the co
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I don't know about most popular, but my favourite bar none is Gudebrod Classic Twist 0221 Black/Orange .
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Aside from line weight, are there other design conderations for the type of line intended to be used? For example, if a braided line type is primarily used should there be a specific choice for guide/ring types? In addition to this general design question, is berkley fireline a braided line?
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I dont know if its considered solid surface, but I tried "bowling ball" material from PSI not too long ago. I bored it out to a thinner wall and used a foam arbor and made it a split grip to cut down on the weight. At 1st I liked it, it looked cool, but still after a morning of fishing I switched to my cork split grip rod and enjoyed the lighter weight. I've got some corian samples I pl
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Bill - Curiously did you use CP? Guides get damaged due to handling, etc, and need to be replaced sometimes so I list "removability" as a key characteristic of the finished item (along with durablitly, clarity, etc, etc). I've only used one finish other than TM, and it seems easier to remove if I used CP.
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I had to replace the tip top and a guide on my kids ugly stick and didnt need any heat. I just cut the epoxy and thread like Mike said and peel off. Picked away at the rest with the thumb nail and a plastic knife. If yours is built like mine was, you might be surprised to find that the trim bands on the were not inlayed but rather were painted on. Go figure.
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At the show, someone asked Rich Forhan what he thought was the best blank for the competitive bass fishing rods he builds. Anyone recall the answer? I tried finding his email but it was hidden.
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I've been wanting to try lucite...anyone tried it? Found something that looks a bit bigger than pen blanks at but 1st order is $100 minimum, more than I wanna spend on something just tor try it.
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Thanks. I managed to finish ok despite the fraying and I think I know now what was happening. I think the ends fused ok, but that I pulled the ball off pulling the thread thru the slot in the foam wheel on the weaver. Near the end I realized if I pulled 'em out of the slot instead of thru the slot I probably coulda avoided the fraying/unraveling. I was a bit worried that I was gonna run into the
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What do you do to keep the ends from fraying while weaving? Flameing the ends didnt seem to work so well it just kept shriveling and still frays/unravels...or id i do something wrong here...
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I just saw a post about someone using 00 Thread on an UL rod. I thought 00 Thread was real thick? I have some at home (inherited) just thought it was thicker than E, don't know why (I think someone told me that) so never looked at it closely...is it thinner than A, thicker than E, where does it stack up in the range thread sizes? I'll have to actually look at it now...
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