No temper tantrum. Just someone willing to call someone out on their @#$%&. I am glad that you are one of there satisfied customers. I am not for good reasons. Would you be happy if had a problem with every order you had placed with NFC? Not just issues with the order fulfillment but also monetary issues? I was upset with this last order because I asked to cancel it and place it again. In the pas
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Tight fitting parts with equal gaps such as skelton seats and their inserts I use a five minute epoxy. Not picky on the brand. Usually use gorilla glue. One of the rod epoxy makers need to step up their game on five minute. I typically need just a small amount. All the hardware store brands come in the dual syringe setup. Push one plunger for what you need and your done. Nice if a rod building fi
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Yep always better to tension the spool instead of clamping the thread especially on metallics. I like using a section of very light blank or spring steel with a ceramic tiptop to direct the thread. Nice to have that in between tension of the bent blank or steel. If you need to back off wrap or two you can without turning the spool to keep tension.
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Have a odd problem with a forecast carbon fiber foregrip. Reamed the grip as I normally do. Reamer is getting a bit worn. Have a new one in transit. Anyways I reamed the grip to the fit I like. Did not have time to glue up. Sat for about a week. Now my normal fit technique is slightly sloppy. I want a a drop in place fit. When I go to glue I do a very thin tape wrap just in from each end. I u
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I want to support a company that cares about a customer regardless of their "business model". I don't want to guess how I am going to be treated. I don't want to guess when I will receive product. If there is a problem I want to be able to ask the company to fix it with out being banned from future purchases. I want decent communication. Anyone who buys anything be it from a retailer,
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Our chain of emails related to that was about the only time I got a prompt response from you or any response. Should put that same amount of effort into treating customers right as you do being a condescending jerk to customers. I guess it was my fault though I did ask you to fix problems after I gave you money. Forgot that's how it works when you buy something.......not. As for Gary agree
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Aleks Maslov Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Steven Paris Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I was just wondering when I would receive my > three > > blanks ordered on Nov 21st. I sent you a > personal > > email and called NFC but they never answered or > > returned my call. Than
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I went with the 721. I think I will be happier with lighter than heavier.
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I fully understand that power ratings vary between manufacturers. I have come to expect Rainshadows ratings to skew heavier than the same rating from other manufacturers. Was wondering if others held the same opinion in general and specifically to these blanks. I have built a couple RX6 SB720-4. Closest blank experience to the E glass in question. They are way heavier than I would of expected. Ba
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If you are going to use braid which I assume you are you can get away with 25 as your stripper. Braid has so little memory you don't have large loops to choke down like you would with mono. Your choke guide is the first guide after your reduction train. Your reduction train would be the guides that step down to your runner guides. In Marks example, which I would follow, your reduction is the KL25
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Looking at building on one of these two blanks. Wondering how close to the listed specs they run. My experience with most every blank from rainshadow I have built on tends to run higher power than listed. Actions are usually fairly close. My application for the blank can kinda split the difference of the two 721 maybe a little light 722 a touch heavy. Leaning towards the 721 expecting it to be a
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Krylon offers their Fusion paint. Sticks great to all types of plastics with no special surface prep.
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I like the look of no CP wraps. However I don't like the potential of the guide foot showing through the wrap with some colors of thread. NOCP thread looks terrible to me
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Andrew McDermott Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Flex Coat warns against it freezing…. Which it > is late November…. I have had this bottle since about mid may. Shop is never below 70 degrees or so. I am aware of the freezing. I never order after October or before May.
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I had another bottle which was fine. Is there any way to prevent this from happening? My concern is a good chunk of the year, which coincides with the majority of my building, is too cold to order a new bottle. Don't want to keep a bunch on hand. Usually just an extra bottle is all I keep around. Would not be good if both bottles went bad as I cannot buy locally.
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Encountered something today with FlexCoat CP. Trying to figure the cause. I always gently stir the bottle then pour out a small amount into a cup. Fairly common for there to be a thicker layer on the bottom of the bottle but it mixes right in. After stirring I pour it and I got chunks coming out of the bottle like curdled milk. Of course I did not use it. Tried shaking the bottle and the chunks g
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If the butt of the grip has a tenon it should take any "standard butt", 3/4" I.D. Basically everyone sells these in various styles.
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First recommendation is stick with whatever finish your using if your happy with the results. There are a lot of options but I truly believe there is not a bad finish on the market. They all have pluses and minuses. They all have a learning curve. They all require you to learn how to use the finish for the best results. Some people have no trouble meshing with a new finish, others just can't make
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Small rubber bands like mudhole sells are the only way to go if your wrapping micros. I use two on each guide. One at middle of the guide and one right were the foot of the guide meets the leg. Wrap about to the middle one and cut it free. Cut the next one when you put your tie off loop in. To cut the bands it is much easier to use a razor blade or exacto that has been heated up with a lighter. J
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Why not just do a trim wrap behind the tube of the tip? If your just replacing the tip wrap with a color that matches the tube. Redoing the whole rod, do a trim wrap the color of the rest of the guides. Or just do a color that matches the blank. Will cover any damage and from a casual glance will look just fine.
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I got sick of losing small things I drop at the bench. I mounted a strip of stick on under cabinet led lights around the perimeter of the underside of my bench. I have them turned on the whole time I am working. Typically if I drop something I can an instantly spot it in the bright light. Saved me lots of cussing well not really just cussing about dropped and lost things. Still cuss about lots of
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Diawa goldcast. Very high quality. Probably best drag of any push button reel. Only negative us line capacity is a little low
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This is the part # for the rear grip NFCG643C01 for the TVS. If you go on their website it is on page 6 of the carbon fiber grips. On the same page they also have part # NFCG639C01 listed for the SK2, don't say if it is for casting or spinning though.
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I typically don't do any surface prep to my guide wraps prior to CP and finish. Have a "clean" work area for the most part and tend to get rods finished withing in a day or two of wrapping. I got a build that is wrapped and sitting unfinished. Been busy doing other things. One of those things was changing furnace filter. Also shop vac all the areas I can reach. Well did that shutoff the
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The Anglers resource calculator is a great tool. However it is a starting point. Can't think of a single build that I have not tweaked something on the guide layout or added guides. You will build a better rod and enjoy building more when you stop trying to follow the "rules". I know. I used to drive myself crazy trying to reconcile my thoughts with the "rules". As to the i
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Trouble with 3.5s is this rod will see winter use and guides icing up is a issue. Won't take long to have problems in sub 20 degree Fahrenheit.
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Was standard thread with CP. Specifically it was Chromaseal CP. In the past I had always used Flexcoat CP. At the time Chromaseal was all I could get. Was that a factor, don't know. But numerous rods later with other brand of thread and my usual CP I have not had one issue.
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Yep that was the grey shade. The tan was the 722 almond. Hopefully the chestnut holds up for you. In my case the blotcheness showed up immediately after the epoxy coat.
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David the light grey was the same color that gave me issues even with CP. Other was mid shade of tan.
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I prefer Hitena. I like they offer a lot of thread in size b. While it is a little thicker than a on the rod it is not noticeable. For me all the characteristics are extremely close to that of gudebrod size a other than being slightly thicker. To me it feels like I am working with gudebrod. Now I am not one of these guys that worships gudebrode and thinks the world nearly ended when it was disco
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