Are these St. Croix SCII blanks, 2SW70MF and 2C70MF, the same blank outside of the color? The butts are the same diameter, tips are the same diameter (the SW version claims a 5.5 tip, but it's really a 6), upper line weight and upper lure weight are the same. Just curious because I like the performance of the SW blank a lot, but am not a huge fan of the color.
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I have popped the ring out of one guide. I was on a guided trip, it was the first guide of a spinning rod, and it was nearly completely rusted out. So, 100% abuse on this one.
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I’ve never used those guides and don’t know the heights, but I’m going to guess yes. Personally I would skip the 8 and do double foot 10, double foot 6, single foot 6s to the top.
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I forgot an even cheaper alternative. Get a 1"x8" to 12" board. Mark the center of the board length ways, and then measure the distance center to center on the holes of your stands. Drill holes at that distance down the length of the board. Get some 1/4" wing nuts and enought 1/4" T nuts to put one in every hole. That way, you can put anchor your stands at any positi
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Damon Taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks all for your responses, > > So maybe a power-wrapper isnt the best option > then. I should have explained - what I currently > have is a small CRB hand wrapper ( > > -1) and I find I get frustrated with constantly > having to readjust rod stands etc due to the small > size.
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The way I do it is using the KR concept, but I'm using Fuji guides. As long as I'm using 5.5 or below runners, I do a KW 10, KW 5.5, then all the same size runners after that. So your guide train would be, KW10, KW 5.5, KB5, KB5, and the KT5 to the tip. Alternatively, you can use the RV6 stripper followed by two or 3 KB5 and then KT5 to the tip. The size KW 6 and KB 6 are about 1/2 of
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Not your question, but you may want to consider a double foot 10 followed by a double foot 5.5 instead of 8 followed by a 7 or 6
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Drew Smith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So, I have 2 questions - > What is your tip ring size going to be? If 12, > then sure. If less than 12, the last 2 or 3 could > be smaller (with not sure how many you plan on > using). > > Do you want a monkey wrench? Why not go with a > spiral wrap? You could then reduce the # of &
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Thanks Drew. Back to the guides. Do you guys think a KW 20, KW 16, then KW 12s to the tip work?
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Drew Smith Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > "I've thought about it, and I think realistically > this makes the most sense. I have no business > building something I fundamentally don't > understand, so I will just buy some cheaper rods > for now and build later if I get more into it." > > > Wrong, wrong, wrong..... >
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just for ideas, check out the selections on the > catalog page. Built up rods ranging in price from > $20-$500. > > If you are only going to be using a rod once or > twice a year, would it make more sense just to > pick up an inexpensive completed rod to get the > feel for surf fishi
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The RV-Hs would be used for spinning rods not > casting rods. For casting rods could use the new > LRV guides or KW guides. Running guides are your > choice, 10, 8, or 7 (single ft or double ft). > Norm Thanks Norm. Would a LRV 12, LRV 8, then KT 7s to the tip be a good place to start?
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5.5 oz typically, but up to 8 oz. I will be using half 65 lb braid and the top half will be 30 lb mono, so essentially I'll be casting mono. I will be using a leader with a swivel, so the only knot that might pass is the FG knot connecting the mono to the braid backer. Checked out St. Croix's website (not sure why I didn't think to do that before). Looks like the reel seat on the 12' rod is
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Throwing weight and bait. Haven’t decided, but either all 30 lb mono or half braid and the top half mono. I’m not sure what I’m trying you maximize, honestly. Warm water. The first time I use it will be in Ft. Walton beach this summer, but after that it will be used in upper coast TX, so gritty? Looking mostly to catch bull reds, not looking for a full grown shark rig
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Thanks Matthew, but there was only text in the email. No link or location in there.
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Hey guys, I've built quite a few inshore casting and spinning rods using the KR concept. I'm wanting to build a casting surf rod, but don't have a clue where to start. I've done some digging but I'm not coming up with much. I have narrowed it down to two blanks and three reels. The blanks are St. Croix 3SRS120HMF2 and 4SRS120HMF2, and the reels are Penn Squall Star Drag SQL25N, Avet SX 5.3
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No. I use Flex Coat CP and ThreadMaster Lite build. The color preserver forms a protective coat over the threads (and whatever else you put it on). Once dried, it has no reaction with the finish so you can use the brand of your choice.
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Thanks Roger. Does it matter where in the line it gets wired in? I'll have to look at the back when I get home, but I'm thinking I could use one of the below rheostats. If it's like I remember, I could pull the wire off the motor, wire it to the rheostat, then wire the rheostat to the motor. Then I could drill a hole in the base and mount the rheostat to it. That way I would have speed contr
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you want to use your size 5 ring 5.5 tube tip > top remove the FINISH it will not hurt anything, > not even a little bit. When people strip a rod > down to refinish it they do not leave the finish > on the tip, and this includes Roger. Finish is > cosmetic and removing it will not hurt the
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mud Hole isn't the only place with tip tops. Try > the Rod Room, they are very close to Fuji (Anglers > Resource). I don't like a guide smaller than 4.5mm > for the tip top because that will aid in the > passage of knots so in my opinion a 4.5mm tip top > with 5mm running guides would wor
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Thanks Roger. I wonder if it would be possible to install a rheostat without damaging anything.
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IMO downsizing a little at the tip should be OK if > you can deal with the aesthetics. Line is running > pretty dang smooth after 4 or 5 small runners. I > would follow Norms advise unless you have to sand > too much. I don't think I'll have to take all that much off. The 5.5 ALMOST fits. I will
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You could scrape the finish from the tip of the > blank where the tip tops will go, and this will > allow you to fit the slightly smaller tiptops > without any problems. > Norm Well, that would just be too simple lol. Thanks Norm!
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Got a question on tip top sizing. If I do a build with size 4 kt guides, I normally do a 4.5 tip top. Anything bigger on the KT guides and I match the size. I ordered three LG CC guides with 5.5 tubes based on the blank specs, but it looks like they actually need a 6 tube size. So now, I'm trying to finish up three builds and most of the tip tops I'm looking for are on backorder. The casting
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Just wanted to follow up on this so I don't leave a bad impression for anyone looking at this in the future. I watched some videos of other power wrappers, there were no videos of the power head. I had the pedal backwards, which gave me no real control. Flipped it around and wrapped all of my guides on a 7' spinning rod in record time. I know it's a budget option compared to the other power w
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Is anyone out there using the RBS System Power Head? I ordered one, and it's not working as expected. It seems like there isn't much middle ground with this thing. I push down the pedal, and it takes a lot of the range to overcome the thread spool tension, then once that happens it's spinning too fast for wrapping. Wondering if I should return it.
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David Parsons Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Steve there is a formula where you take the butt > dia - tip dia and blank length to come up with the > taper of the blank pre inch then add up your > handle length to find out the place where your > winding check will go and what size you will need. > I hope this helps it should get you close
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Thank you Steve!! David DeBruhl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Seth and Raymond > > I wonder if this can be used for this since it is > sold separate from the hand wrapper from Mudhole. > Looks like we could drill a small hole and super > glue this in on the thread carriage and add the > spring wire. > > > and-Wrap
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Steve Monroe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I added a wire tensioner to my carriage. > > > /photo/20574/title/thread-tension/cat/508 I'm interested in doing this on my machine. What kind of wire did you use?
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Robert Wood Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I made an extension for my CRB carriage I can run > up to 6 spools on it. Its easy to do too a couple > pieces of aluminum strap 3/4 inch wide and a few > nuts and 1/4 all thread I am kicking myself right now. I had pretty much melted my first HWS-1 trying to replace the tension rod and recently orde
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