I use pumps screwed right on the bottles, 2CC pumps to be exact , and have been for thirty + years . Ive seen no better answer in the last forty years. your mileage may very.
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Your wish is granted.
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The Penn 33-116 reel clamp is ;nearly 2.5 in. center to center across the clamp holes.
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Spool of thread, box cuter. roll of masking tape and the flap off a cardboard box and I can and have made a rod a wrapper in mere minutes and stared wrapping rods. Don't over think don't over spend.
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Check the reel seat for for air space with a large needle, ice pick , fly tying bodkin works well. Finding a gap, consider injecting epoxy rod finish, super glue, or remove the top of the reel set cork ring and just pour adhesive and replace the top ring.
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Pumps in the microwave , 10 seconds no sparks , resin clear again and thanks for reminding me.
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Near thirty years with pumps now, neither my wife or I could ever get syringes to work for us.
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I use a pallet knife with Rod Bond, an 1CC and 2 CC pumps with the flex coat. Thirty plus years cant remember the last time I missed a mix with either one. Have changed pumps from time to time of course.
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Tom on a serious note I would suggest Mr. Al Clark for a profile, one of the true pioneers of modern Thread patterns an to my understanding the originator of the fish wrap.
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Why should I waste time and money advertising my work. The majority of people who use rods I design and assemble will likely never meet me. and only a few will remember my name if they even know it. This is as it is, no judgement here, as you need to understand, I build for people who don' t buy rods. And It can cost thousands of dollars and often takes a credentialed professional to fish
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300 lbs. single strand stainless steel leader wire. works great and also useful for making small tools . Seldom does a day go by that I don't use some of the tools Ive made out of leader wire either repairing reels or building and repairing rods.
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Make yourself a gauge, strip of metal is what I use most of the time . Lay it on the blank touching the guide foot tip and mark the other side as my starting point. Cut a strip of plastic or metal, what ever with your comfortable using.
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You may want to consider making what I call a drop rod. Were the top section drops into the but section about 14 inches. the drop can very depending on the blank your working with. it gives you some of the benefit of a two piece rod and the reliability of a single piece rod. I used to make them for hiding behind the seat of pickup trucks. Out of sight, out of temptations path so to speak.
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OK folks , simple is better. Six inches of mono fishing line tie a 3 inch loop, tie tag ends together, hold half inch down, knot towards the butt from the tip and wrap a rubber band over and around till your sure it wont slip. ten to twenty turns should do nicely. works for me every time .
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Norm, on which line weights I have used, six, seven and eight weight. makes a fun little stick.
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You may want to consider using an ultralight spinning rod blank and building it as a fly rod. My personal most popular is the St. Croix ultra lite graphite. From blue gill to bone fish its the best liked. I'm told it tucks nicely into a golf bag. A little casting practice on the back greens I guess.
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My only thought to you, never hire anyone with less talent than you have . That isn't to say less knowledge in your field, but less natural skill. There is a difference between an assembler and a craftsmen. Ive hired both over the years but never made the mistake of confusing one for the other and been pleased and amazed by both. Good luck
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I have learned to to use the characteristics of mono and will pull from different points of the loop which causes the loop to deform and set slightly in a more open position. Easier to hit a square loop than a narrow slit shape or just slip in your loop and tug slightly on one side to distort the loop and cause it to open wider.
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Can't find your loops when you drop one, a simple piece of red yarn loop lock to the knot end solves that problem. flip the knot back over and sick the yarn thru pull the loop close and snip a small tag, Lay it in on the bench , drop it on the floor you'll spot that that red tag every time,
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I'll stick with mono for the pull loop. I tried the braid, it just slowed me down, I didn't like the limp loop.
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Chuck up a role of masking tape and make your own pin striping tape at what ever widths you find useful.
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Measure the inside of the blank after you cut the old rod off. Next order two brass rod ferules that will fit inside the blank. glue the long female or bottom of the ferule into the into the handle. Add some rod blank to the back of the joint before you slide it in, if you feel it may need further reinforcement. cut the blank you wish to install in to the grip to were it will fit in to the oth
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If it isn't slinging the epoxy off it will likely be be just fine.
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If your cutting thru the grip, hack saw is fine. If your cutting thru a bear blank then a couple turns pf masking tape is recommended and just cut right thru the tape.
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There is place in Florida that handles seconds but its strictly a cash and carry operation, they don't pick, pull or ship any blanks. Actually a friend of a friend of mine found some very low demand blanks I was in desperate want of and they had them. Brand new thirty year old stock just doesn't turn up that often. Having cleared out a couple supply houses (that didn't take much) I made 1000
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Cast offs, blem's and salvage have long been the fodder of innovation practice material of new concept rod designs for me and many of my students for a long time. Its a very attractive way to bring in new interests to rod building.
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Have slopped a screw driver under of the lip of the foam to see how much gap or open void you may find. . Been pouring rod finish epoxy down reel seat repairs for many year , I suggest you tape the bottom of the reel seat some seats have very little actual contact with the arbor and epoxy may run out the bottom. Ive flex coat filled more than a few reel seats with this method and haven't had
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Odd , no were was it mentioned what type of material the front grip on the rod. I do this type of work every day. Details can make the difference in answers you may receive. Hope it works out for ya, you got a lot good help.
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