you can do 2 things go around the block several time to get next door trying to fix the problem as Rodger suggests or you can just contact the MFG and let them know your not happy with the quality of the product you purchased that is supposed to be the best and let them know that the reseller has worked with you and there has been no resolve to the problem and you feel that it should be right an
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you can E mail me if you have any other questions always willing to help with out the side show comments
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Robert you can use a muskie blank of choice and length to suit your/customer needs or wants as for the grips I would use eva for it and cork for the fore grip tied in with a good set of Fuji HN Heavy Casting & Boat Guides no need to get all crazy with a concept set of guides to me that is kind of a waste of $$ as it will be in a rod holder more often than in hand for the seat this would be
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these would work the first would be best choice for the amount of weight your using the second is a bit on the light side
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what size weight are you planning to use how heavy of line do you plan on using casting reel or spinning these 3 things would be a great help to give you a proper answer
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wipe it down with acetone and re coat with an accurate mix should harden if not just take it all down to and start over
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mostly for looks doesn't add strength does add a couple of Grains of weight the key word is grains not really noticeable or affecting the rod feel/action or power. It is NOT needed
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some use it to tack down thin trim bands and other decorative wraps and it works great if you DON"T try to use Color preserver after you finish the rest of the wrap it will leave that spot a little darker than the rest of the wrap thread. I doesn't affect the final epoxy finish coating. The key is not to use Color preserve after using it to tack down a thread. Never gave it a try with NCP
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Billy is right about the pre loaded syringes they don't dispense evenly all the time best is 2 use the 2 oz kits that comes with separate syringes you can be very accurate with you mix and if you don't build a bunch of rods at a time it is cheaper to buy the lesser amounts vs a larger amount as if you need more just buy more and you will know that it is fresh . and if your mixing by hand alwa
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here a few nice blanks that you might consider these 2 particular would be good choices CISH904 9'0'' F - 2 10 - 17. 3/8 - 1. 5 0.48 - Cousins Cousins Steelhead Spin was $136 82.99 ST9052IM 9'0'' F MH 2 8 - 17. 3/8 - 1. 5 0.495 2.78 NFC NFC was $257 167.99
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Don't fix it or change it if it isn't broke you have it right or you found the Rosetta stone for that particular rod blank
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go with it as the load test is your key for the right guide train you got it right
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tried the mechanical mixer and was more issues and wasted mix than it was worth to use to this day I still mix in a cup and as I stated I roll the cup using a spatula to scrape the side of the cup allowing the mix in the middle of the cup to flow to the sides so it gets incorporated in to the mix thoroughly and in about 2-3 min I have it thoroughly mixed and ready for the foil and application to
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OK here we go you did most of it right till you got to mixing it you stirred it to fast incorporating air causing the bubbles what you need to do is to use a folding mix method and roll the cup, if you don't know how to do it ask your wife it is a method used for incorporating wipped things together in baking measure out your equal parts and check that they are equal then slowly squeeze th
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wrap the guide shouldn't be a problem lots of 3 and 4 piece rods end up that way
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what I have done in the past is to do it so to say backwards from top to butt reverse from butt to tip as the blank is tapered and the threads will want to slide forward and you will have issues as you wrap with the threads wanting to slide forward because of the taper and you will have packing issues. again keep in mind that the taper is larger at the bottom and smaller at the top and doing i
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changing business models has it's problems and I am sure they weren't ready for the huge response they got changing from dealers / suppliers only, to selling to the general public they plain just ran out of inventory quickly as most took advantage of the launch sale and discounted pricing. They will honor their sales and appreciate the customers patients
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the few I have done it seems that white or light silver gray or any bright contrasting color along with black is the key thing giving the proper base to achieve a good tiger pattern, I could be wrong but finished ones done that way look good the others not so much
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No epoxy formulators recommend this but, if you > must, then Acetone. It's more volitile than DNA > and will leave the mix more quickly. > > Is there a reason you need to thin it? > > ............. if you would answer why you want to thin it we can give you a better answer but here i
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well Spencer are as sure about their warranty as I am they are very specific and pickuni about their product and any alterations of them . A customer removed the decal and they wouldn't honor the warranty doing a guide would for sure void the warranty on a factory rod a custom built on a blank has different warranty specifics
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yes they will hold up just fine but he will void any factory warranty that comes with the rod because it has been altered from factory spec
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you can use this it is water based and shouldn't react with the marbling paint
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The problem with internet replies is that people > just regurgitate what they hear other people say. > I often wonder if rodbuilders actually get out > and fish. I average 3-4 days a week on the water with in the state boundaries I may be up there in years but I still do the only sport that I reall
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all the trolling rods and muskie rods that I have built over the last 2 years were spiraled wrapped either by customers request or my suggesting it to them after showing them the advantage of a spiral wrap rod.
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a necessity for some rods/heavily stressed and the other side of the nickle some builders use it for decoration and don't care about the extra weight it brings to a lighter rod. Like doing several trim bands, inlays,spiral over wrap just bling on light rods not a necessity.JMHO
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I my self use a super sharp thin blade kitchen knife to cut eva and I bore it with a rotary file to cut the angles I hobby craft a miter box and hold it snugly so that doesn't roll or slide and cut it with a smooth single stroke that keeps the face ends square but make sure you have the same density for your color pieces as the black or they won't shape well and gluing them back together use
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you could use a muskie blank this is from rod geeks fits you customers spec Musky Rod Series - MKY76HF
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Hi Doug could you send me a pic I believe I could identify it for you
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talk to him and you always have the option to say no and you will find that most that are asking for that many are the type that have champagne taste but a beer budget once you give him a price just for the blanks bet he folds because he would have a minimum of 500.00 in just the blanks add in the components and labor and they just went way past his expectations of having 5 of them made let al
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