under light fresh water blanks craappie pan fish blanks @ mud hole there is this option PF1202ML-MHX 10'0" 2 2-8 lb. 1/64 - 1/2 oz. ML MF 4.5 0.504 3.8 Slate $31.50 and several others that are light weight from 4' 6" - 14'
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Ok I wouldn't stain it either as for coloring the letters I would use a fine tip nib pen tip or just the tip of a skewer and be delicate applying the color so you don't over run the engraving and then let the color dry after that proceed with the final finish. my reason for suggesting you do it that way is ceder wood tends to easily take color because it is a porous grain wood so once it is o
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are you going to stain it ?? or leave it natural ?? if you going to stain it do it and then highlight the initials what ever color you choose then finish it
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have you considered this blank it is with in your price range Rodgeeks> Surf Rod Series - SRF110MM2 @135.00 11' | Mono. Line Wgt: 12 - 25 lb. | Lure Weight: 2 - 6 oz. | Moderate Action, Medium Power A flat rate of $18.95 is charged for most blank shipments within the U.S., * All dimensions and weights are nominal - actual blanks may vary slightly ** Moderate action blanks a
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reaming any handle should be done from the bottom to top with a tapered reamer close to the size of the blank . doing this works best as it doesn't take away excess material and if it is a bit loose you can place a couple tape shims to make a more closer fit then butter the blank with epoxy heavily at the starting point where the bottom part of the grip meets the blank it will fill the gap/gap
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If that is the case I would just mount a tube style rod holder it would take a lot of weight to offset the pull from the line and the balance of being up right.
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quit using hot melt over 20 years ago and went to epoxy and never used anything else since and never had a problem 5 min epoxy is great for that as it sets fast and you don't have to worry about it twisting and removal is easy with a little heat same as hot glue
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It would n;t make a difference if the eye was size 8 on the tiptop because it is the exit guide and there are no others after that Yes others have used a single foot guide as a tip top and just wrapped it on like a guide and seal it with the thread epoxy. other wise you need to take a fly rod tip top and cut off the loop so you have a hollow tube and select the size tip top guide size you ne
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Reaming aluminum checks is done easily if you use a cone shaped mandrel stone you do the top side and then clean up the from the under side I just do it by hand as using power it can snag and fly away and then it is ready to mount and won't have any burs that could scratch the blank. these type of stones are available at home depot with a 1/4 inch shaft for a standard drill chuck or there is a
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you have kind of answered you own question as to determining the size you need unless your using the plastic/rubber ones as they will stretch a bit to fit several rod sizes with in reason. where the aluminum checks can be reamed out some to fit the blank if to small or a bit under size. the blank size is what you need to make an accurate determination of what size you need most times Alumi
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the tensioner will work either way front or back you can use it as a guide for the thread when mounted in front and when you stop it will hold the thread and it's position if you back off the wrapped thread it works the same as it does being mounted in the back . how I mounted the one I made i put it on the back edge of the carriage and run the thread through a small eye screw and up through th
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Chad is it a problem keeping the thread tight ?? there is this add on you can get you will have to give a little more info on what your wants are other wise we are shooting in the dark to help you
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? what brand power wrapper is it you have
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I would just cut the blank you could cut it long and sand up about an inch but not much more than that to make it fit the butt id so you would only loose about 2-2/12 inches in blank length
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seriously if it were my rod I would use the lumi seal as it is a water based urethane and cleans up with water and will not yellow and will be as tough as the rod finish . the water based products are great if you don't like the harsh chemicals the others are made with
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you would have to use perma gloss or lumi seal as they aren't a high build finish both available from MudHole
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Daub like a drop just enough to fill the nick
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are you using a kit or part purchase separate ?? as for the handle they are simple to do and you can opt not to use the reel rings and just tape the reel on and get the most in sensitivity from the rod. Mudhole offers a nice hks-8 Tenn handle kit the guides are a tossup the microwave are the top of the line and more than likely the best choice as versed other options and considering the li
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you need to know the size of the male end that inserts to the seat and order a seat from that measurement or you can ream the seat you purchased already to fit the male end of the ferrule and hope fully it wouldn't be to much as to affect the strength of the seat But you might be better off ordering the next size up as the you wouldn't need to remove to much of the ribs as that is there th
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I would use epoxy daub and then do a wrap over the nick and use an epoxy finish on it but if the nick is deep in to the glass it will eventually fail that would call for a different procedure
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got 2 one in blue and 1 in black e mail me and I will send you a picture if interested
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guide placement
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for your first build they will be just fine you can always strip them off and replace them with a higher end guide but for momo they are fine a lot of the off the rack rods have them
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Or you just could take a permanent marker and cover the white part where the wrap would be and leave the rest white as versed doing an under wrap and that would make the wraps all the same after finishing them
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where the white is it might be a bit lighter than on the black
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lost of reasons for fish eye of finish most of the time when you get fish eye is when you have thinned you mix to much either with chemical or heat as it is self leveling but does NOT always have even heat distribution on the rod, mixing it way to long you should be able to get a good mix in 2-3 min. and then do as everyone has been saying and that Tom posted pore it on a piece of aluminum foi
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Flex coat Cork Lathe Set-up I have to agree with Herb , been using mine for years and never needed anything more, have shaped any configuration of grip you can think of , is perfect if you have limited space also
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you can cut it off and try it if it doesn't work you can put it back with a dowel /piece of blank in the blank side and put back the cut off butt section just put a wrap on the blank if it is exposed just a bit of insurance from split out. good luck finding your sweet spot with the rod
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