I cut most poly or braided nylon cord with a razor blade and then take it to a bit of heat to melt the fray and shape the glop on the end to the same as the rest of the cord and if the ends are hidden why worry about it being a bit burnt .
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spiral wrap or acid wrap
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your kind of limited as there isn't to many available here is another I found you could call Batsonrainshadow and see if they have any in their line of of blank brands spiral wraps aren't that hard just takes a bit more putzin to get it right
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do you want a flipping stick ?? from mudhole MHX FS905 Flipping Stick Rod Blank (0) SKU: #FS905-MHX $79.50 or here is a link to what they have are you dragging port and starboard yellow bird plainer boards with crank baits ? or just crank baits are you using bottom bouncers ? could better advise you on choice of rods to use if you provide a bit more info
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it should work if you don't use anything like PG or LS as they are both xylene based urethane finishes the regular epoxy finishes should work just fine or the thread master water base urethane done in a couple of coats to achieve a deep finish
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what type of finish is the original ?? how old is the rod ?? if it is some type of lacquer based finish the PG is probably eating in to it causing the problem it will eventually harden or it might just remain tacky It does sound like a contamination issue you might have to resort to removing the PG and the under lying finish to get a good result JMHOP
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or this one rod geeks Carbon 2 Series - C266MHF $54.00
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as I say hurry up and slow down the only person that your in competition with is you, as for the scotch or a few beers that is a good thing takes off the edge promotes a calm and focus that along with a little of your favorite music works wonders as for your best friend a raw hide will occupy him /her for quite a long time while being good company and someone to talk to that isn't judgement
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Musky Rod Series - MKY72MHFfrom Rod Geeks a good economical blank builds a super rod have built 4 for customers and they love them.
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do you have a dedicated space ? if so you could install a vented to the out side range hood and run it as it will draw the fumes up and out that is how I did it and works fine if you want you can all so add a couple lengths of wood a bit longer than your bench and add some thin plastic to make a drop down tent around the bench and the hood would eliminate all the fumes during the drying proc
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you have to make a decision on what would work best for you the 703 is a medium and 705 is a medium heavy if it were me I would base my decision on what type of rods I normally use IE -medium or medium heavy and purchase that one and build it.
Forum: rodboard

you could match the blank against your rod and see where the tapers come closest then tape on the same amount of guides you 8'6" has and do a load test and see if they are close in deflection that would help you achieve the balance you want . but using a rod make on 1 blank and a different make of blank might not produce the end result you want. lots of futzing around some times
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Not a good idea as it would be a photo dip finish and would add a considerable amount of weight and dampen the action a lot also as for the grip you can get winn grip wrap tape but again it would add weight and could reduce the hand sensitivity. rod geeks offers painted blanks if it were my choice and wanted a bit of stealth I would get a neon blue or light blue either would be the color
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I doubt that it will be a marked difference to the action as your only moving the the position of the center of the reel by 1 1/2 inches a minimal transfer of weight forward or backward JMHO
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all the raspberries aside on the subject To all those that do thin their finish and have the SKILL SET to do it successfully. I am sure that they took the time to figure out the amounts of solvent to use. But to post in a form and say just do it BECAUSE I do it all the time, isn't a good piece of advice because the person or persons reading that snippet of information may not have the SKILL
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they are measured in 1/64 th inch the tube and ring use a caliper and you can order the tip top be it a wire looped top or a ceramic insert
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Epoxy formulators advise not to thin any epoxy. If > you want thinner coats, use a stiffer brush; put > on less, etc. > > Flex Coat is one supplier that does advise on > thinning epoxy wrap finish. Consult their website > for how they do it. > > .................. I my self wou
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is it the metallic or the clear gloss purple ?? prowrap has several shades of purple to my eye the 607 would match the clear gloss and 619 for the metallic paint comes in ncp and just plain nylon
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Hooah Great feeling isn't it nothing like building it and using it for the first time and hooking a fish to fight really something to be proud of that is something few people ever experience from the fruit of their labor and will last a life time as you will always remember that first strike. the rod building hobby is no more expensive than a ticket to a sporting event with all the little e
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well if that is the case I would order a 2 0unce kit of finish the same make and try a fresh batch it could be a problem with the finish you have could have been contaminated in packaging if that is the case I would send it back to the MFG. and see what they have to say or what their testing of that batch tells them or it got cooked to much I have learned over the years to buy smaller amount
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Michael said You forgot to mention the liquid rod cement. The closest relative today is Pliobond. That stuff took three days to cure. yea that kind got lost in my post but I do remember it as it was in a small bottle that has a red,white black out line label with a black cap looked like snot in a bottle as it had a bit of a green cast in direct sunlight lol and kind of handled like it
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Hi all Have been building for many years I have had the opportunity to use all the different color preservers out there if you think I am kidding I am not do you remember when the only color preservers around were plain clear lacquer or Elmers white glue thinned with water . And the finish was spar marine varnish ??? With that said This is what I have done or used over my time building rods
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we need a bit more details to help you with what tool or piece of equipment you are looking to purchase
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if it is a more portable rod your after for back packing just buy a per made . what type of fishing are you want to do with it ?? mud hole has a 2 piece 4' 6 " rod . or a travel blank at 6'6" and 3 pieces to do what you want you would have to buy several blanks and cut them to make what you want and would cost more than it would be worth to do and calculating the cuts would be just
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because most CP 's recommend 2-3 coats I just do it while holding the rod in one hand up right and apply so that if there is a drip it follows the threads when done I look for drips or runs and remove them let it dry and do the other coats if called for. the only time I do it on a rod in the dryer is if they are full wraps as you want to cover the entire wrap hope this helps. Matthew
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I my self have always coated the threads and if you have a little over run on to the blank it is OK I would not coat the blank if at all possible
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there is this option I have used this product by Roddancer ThreadMaster ONE One-Part Rod Finish it is Water based . this is their side of their rod finish products that doesn't have any harsh chemicals where as the LUMI SEAL and PERMA GLOSS have xylene and will eat the factory finish on a rod and most plastics they contact. the THREAD MASTER works well for me. available at mudhole.her
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well it is that time again the boat made a splash hitting the water and getting thew bugs out I took some time to try out my new rod for trout and salmon works great but only caught lake trout and the season for them is closed here but looking forward to a good season. I have started to work on a new build all so a super light 6'6" spinning rod just for pan fish spring has sprung for me
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sounds like you not getting a complete wet out on the under wraps or the wraps might be a bit to loose a lot of things can cause your problems
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another option you have is to use ultra thin leafing material that you can get at the craft store you use it like the old press type and then coat it with finish comes in silver aluminum, real gold copper, brass. a bit intensive to work with but the results are superb
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