Audun, It is unfortunate you cut 2in off the butt section; due to the taper of the blank, you are now left with a step between the two sections. I have designed a method of fabricating tubular, tapered FG ferrules called CARL (Constant Arc Rod Link). While it was intended to utilize the UNCUT blank itself as the mold, the process could possibly be modified to suit you scenario. See the link belo
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Thanks, Norman; you beat me to it. Don, your project is a perfect candidate for two sets of CARL ferrules. If you are interested, contact me for updates to the build process I have adopted since that article was written.
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Tom, Ben & Michael, Thank you for the informative replies. Apparently I have, indeed, been trying to compare apples with oranges or pounding a square peg into a round hole. This has been a point of consternation to me for quite a while and although seeking prior advice from other veterans, I now finally understand. But, back to how the “action” of a blank or rod is determined by the manufac
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The “action” of a blank is generally described and accepted to be as to how much of the blank’s length flexes or bends with a load applied to the tip; basically fast = top 25%, medium = 50%, and slow = flexing all the way to the butt. What are the governing factors employed to determine and measure the “action” of a blank? First, what is the angle in which the rod is held; horizontal (0*), 30*, 4
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Jack, Nice to know there is another member out here on the Left Coast; we are in the minority. I’m in Temple City, 20 minutes east of downtown LALA Land. I always go out of San Diego when I get serious about my saltwater fishing. While I suppose, ultimately for the environment, California should be commended for leading the way in banning some really nasty chemicals like Trichloroethylene and Z
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Roy and Kent, I am surprised Roger Wilson has not joined your party yet; the three of you are like peas in a pod = you’ll have great fun.
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John, 2X all of Norman’s comments. The KR set-up for my UL – L trout rods begin with a 16H as you mentioned but have learned the 20H is better for heavier rods as Norman suggested for your application. Either will work for your rod. The KBs and KTs are virtually identical above the foot with the KB offering a stronger and slightly larger foot. With the minimal weight difference, consider employi
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Daniel, Whether NCP or regular nylon, any light colored thread will “muddy-out” over a dark base, obviously more so with regular nylon. Especially if your trolling is for off-shore, under-wrapping with the same light color will help considerably to retain the color of the over-wraps. While there will always be a continual debate on the pros and cons of under-wraps, they certainly will not harm a
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Jack, I prefer the natural, unfinished look rather than a clear coat of PG or thread finish. However, I have found U40 Cork Seal to leave the cork natural-looking while affording a bit of protection against chipping, dirt and grime contamination = easy cleaning and generally prolongs the life of the cork; I use it on all my cork. Birchwood Casey’s Tru Oil is another option but is difficult to ge
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Bruce, All of the above replies are correct except that, in a few cases, the epoxy was referred to as “drying” rather than curing. Nit-picking aside, Roger’s 24 hours is a good rule of thumb although Norman’s 6-8 hours is often adequate if cured at >75*F. For the best bond between coats, the sooner = the better to achieve a CHEMICAL/MOLECULAR bond; after 3-5 days of the first coat curing, scu
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Don, I am uncertain exactly to what you are referring concerning “cutting… ferrules”. I am willing and can possibly help you given more details.
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Brandon, In that case, I have a number of “cheesy” looking saltwater rods. Got crackers and wine?
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Brian, We all have “more learning to do”!!!
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Brandon, Without knowing the diameter of the blank where the grip will be, as Kevin stated, cork tape is certainly a prospect. Additionally, X-shrink tubing will provide a very durable handle. While cork tape and shrink tubing will add weight, it may be advantageous on such a long rod to assist “balancing”.
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David, Remember that the profound benefit of FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic) is based on distributing the applied stress over the entire length of each fiber from end to end; severing ANY of those fibers (even tiny nicks ) dramatically reduces the integrity of the entire piece. I propose it would be much better to find the appropriate blank, even if cutting 2ft from the butt of a 7ft blank.
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Roger and all viewers, You are undeniably the electronic Guru of this site and your gift of giving is greatly appreciated by all. The electronic circuitry you designed to my specifications for my wrapper upgrade performs flawlessly and I am happier than a pig in slop. As you, my Dad is a retired EE but I absorbed a very small percentage of his vast knowledge. That is exactly why I employed you t
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The above replies are correct; graphite is carbon. The confusion arises due to years of people bastardizing the two terms. In the composite world, “graphite” is generally considered the powder, or extremely short fiber, form whereas “Carbon fiber” is considered just that, the fiber form in very long lengths as in cloth.
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Mo, If you are a “weight weenie” alone, go with Steve’s recommendation; if you are a “weight weenie” with a bun, stick to cork.
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Joe, Impressive ingenuity/ fabrication. May I suggest you support the output shaft of the gear-motor as the small bearings/bushings within will eventually give-up to the weight of a rod constantly exerting downward force on them. I have experienced the same with MudHole’s dryer motors in a rather short period of time; supported, they are much better.
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Michael offered very good advice. I used a 16 (spinning) seat on a build because if fit the butt of the blank without the use of arbors/shims. As soon as I fished it, I realized the seat felt too small and thus uncomfortable. Good analogy on Michael’ hammer handle = right on the money!
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Phillip, I often use shrink wrap over cork tape for saltwater builds except for the rare occasion the rod will be primarily used in a holder = Slick Butt. It is comfortable, easy to make (and repair as well!) and very durable. The only draw-back is possibly the weight; but then that could be a positive in assisting to balance a longer rod.
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Travis, sorry to misunderstand your initial question and thanks to Russell for pointing it out. Don’t get old; see what happens!!!
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William, I concur with the previous statements from the veterans = a blank is a blank. How one chooses to utilize a particular blank for a particular application is what rod building is all about! There really is no wrong or right. While I may prefer a using a fly blank to produce a spinning rod, others will say it is too “sloppy”; so what, I like it! Those same may prefer a very quick tip whil
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John, More information is required for accurate suggestions; stand-up or trolling or fighting chair, what kind of harness if any, size of the targeted fish, reel drag capability and other factors help determine a proper blank. That being said, I personally prefer Cal Star and Seeker for my tuna stuff; I am admittedly unfamiliar with swordfish.
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Travis, Welcome aboard and to rod building. I hope you can afford the addition (in more ways than monetarily). Although I fabricate a lot of things, I have not found the need for a rod stand, let alone have the space, so I cannot offer any direct assistance. However, Roger Wilson, a long-time veteran of the site and known for his fabrication skills, has probably built many, one of which can be
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Allow me to clarify; when I referred to “…epoxy is notoriously sensitive to UV degradation, even those claiming to have UV additives “, I was speaking of the laminating epoxy used during the manufacturing process of the blank itself. And we are certainly on the same page that the weight a coat of PG is insignificant.
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Anthony, First of all, welcome back. I thought I was the Odd-Man-Out on the forum due to my passion for the vintage FG Conolon blanks and testing COF guide trains but, OK, you win, tag, you’re it!!! LOL It is difficult to visualize what you are describing which in turn makes it difficult offer any assistance; I will attempt to find the old steel rods I scavenged from my dad’s arsenal to hopefu
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Admittedly, I have never used agate guides, but there will come a day when I decide to do so to adorn one of my vintage Conolons. From the pictures I have seen, they are absolutely gorgeous; uniformly rounded/swaged rings encompassing the agate, undetectable welds/ solder to the frame and beautiful, finely tapered feet; I have not SEEN any nicer. Good find, Wade!
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John is certainly correct on all counts as well. Allow me to add two points: 1.) A quality CARNUBA paste wax is a great way to preserve the finish of a fishing rod but make certain it is NOT a cleaner-wax (with chalky polishing grit) and CERTAINLY NOT silicone based. 2.) While possibly splitting-hairs, epoxy is notoriously sensitive to UV degradation, even those claiming to have UV additives. To
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Thank you to all for the continuation of replies. Jim, it is comforting to know you concur with my UL KL-16H reduction train. I may be uncertain what the percentages you referred to actually reflect, But EVERY SINGLE PERSON I HAVE BUILT A KR CONCEPT ROD FOR HAS BEEN BLOWN-AWAY WITH ITS PERFORMANCE!!! While I most heartedly agree a KR rod is “an absolute pleasure to fish”, the additional casting
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