Jarrett, While certainly not an expert on the subject, I would agree with Michael and Dennis; leave the original decals in place and build the rod around it, if for nothing else, authenticity sake. Some vintage Fenwick rods/blanks draw quite a reasonable price if that is what you are after; only research will tell.
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Hopefully, 2021 will be less eventful. Stay safe and healthy.
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Todd, Don’t get me started! I prefer FG over CF for the Fish-Fighting-Fun-Factor for my freshwater trout rods and its ultimate toughness for saltwater rods as well. A FG fly blank can make an awesome spin rod, even if there are those who proclaim such will be “sloppy” feeling; to each his own. Try it, you’ll like it!
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Excuse my misunderstanding.
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Gary, In the grand scheme of things, it boils down to personal preference although I would agree with others that finish on a winding check is unnecessary. I personally do not care for winding checks and in lieu of them I simply build a radiused fillet of thread finish, usually tinted. By the way, there is no need to apologize for asking questions, “new guy” or other; that is what this site is
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John, There are those who consider a fly blank too slow or “sloppy” for a spin rod; I actually prefer it. Additionally, it is rare to find a UL spin pack rod in 3 or 4 sections while there are numerous 2-4 weight fly blanks which convert quite nicely. You will never know until building one; try it, you’ll like it; if you do not like it, you can always give it to me LOL.
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Michael, I have nothing to add as Billy, Tom, Herb and John have said it all and I agree.
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Don, What advantage are you seeking or expecting by using both PG and flexCoat as well? By using the same material (either PG or FlexCoat) for both the under and over wraps, you should be able to apply the over wrap and finish in 24 hours. PG is a moisture-curing urethane and requires exposure to the humidity in the air to cure; hence, as Tom stated, waiting 3 days would be advised if sealed-of
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To all, Thank you for taking the time to afford your wisdom, support and suggestions. While having to wait until Monday to place my order with Anglers Warehouse, I will re-evaluate all the replies. After the COF rod is built and compared to the KR rod, I will post my findings if anyone is interested (beside just Ben). Dennis, a special and gracious thanks to you for your generous offer; unless
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Jack, Thanks for the thanks; you are more than welcome (and welcomed as well). This site is all about give and take and I have taken a tremendous amount of knowledge from many generous givers. I enjoy and look forward to giving back whenever possible. We are all here to learn! Please keep us informed of your project progress.
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Jon, If you end up needing to come over to my shop for instruction, I’m not gunna feed ya! Patience and perseverance will prevail!
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Jack, If a guide spacing chart is even employed at all, it should only be used as a starting point AT BEST. After all, you are building a custom rod, not a generic, off-the-shelf pole. Static load testing the blank, utilizing the 2-line method, will place each guide at the optimum position to evenly distribute the stress from load along the blank and is a great aid in casting distance as well. T
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Jon, Jerme afforded a link to the video Steven and I were referring to. Unlike the saw blade in the video, mine are one color and it gets a bit tricky when adding and dropping threads for the second course of teeth, at least with the way I have done it in the past. However, I watched the video again and may try Doc’s method of wrapping the thread for the center/body of the blade around the blank
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Ben, You are probably correct in that most guides back then were wire. The few ceramic ringed guides undoubtedly were mounted in shock rings too boot. Additionally, most guide were probably double foot as well. While I do have one of these Conolon #155 mounted with KR style Minima M and F guides, I am not really satisfied with the wire guide selection available for this application. I am confid
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Jon, I started attempting to describe the saw blade version of a JTOB for you but gave up, sorry. There is a lot of validity to the saying, “a picture is worth a thousand words”. That is probably why you have not received more replies. Steven’s suggestion of viewing the Doc Ski video is probably the best avenue to take. If you are still having difficulties, come on over to my shop and I’ll show
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Spencer & Robert, While I am familiar with the Varmac seats and realize they were very popular and widely used back then, were they the only game in town? Michael, DPSD are my go-to seat when a pipe seat is requested. With this vintage guide train mounted on a vintage rod, I feel a vintage seat is appropriate. I am a huge proponent of a Tennessee handle, I even fabricate my own tapered sl
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Although you probably already figured it out, this is a spinning seat; please excuse the novice omittense.
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I have decided to build a COF rod to be used as a performance comparison to a KR Concept rod; I am anxious to learn just how much better modern rods perform with their new technology than the rods of the past (1970s). To make the comparison as fair and precise as possible, I will be using a vintage, FG Conolon blank (#155) as I have already built a number of KR rods on the “same” #155 blanks. Bei
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Dan, I think you answered your own question; one never knows what load or angle the line will be to dictate how much and how deeply a rod will be flexed. Therefore, static load testing for guide placement, even though only static, is the best tool/method we have to evenly distribute the load on the blank. Additionally, I static test both fully loaded and partially loaded (with more attention to
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Darwin, From your description, it seems like the guide spacing closer to the tip is relatively wide compared to the mid section where most of the bend is noticed followed by wider spacing again toward the butt. As Donald and Michael have offered, static load testing (2-line method) will determine the optimum location for each guide to equally distribute the stress the blank encounters under load
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Bill, Sorry to hear of your dilemma. You have received many good ideas and methods but apparently your ferrule is stubborn. Unless the ferrule was glued or bonded somehow, it will come apart eventually but patience may be the best method to apply. I have been unable to locate a method I saw to un-stick ferrules which required two people with each of their hands gripping one of the rod sections a
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Danny, I am glad you have the ability to make your own tools, fixtures and such; it affords an additional sense of satisfaction to the entire endeavor (just ask Roger and me). The ability to adjust your thread tension will be a great asset as you have already discovered. Concerning one of your latest comments, “I was not tightening the final wrap and pull through very well”, consider that if the
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Michael, If you are insistent on placing your spiral-wrapped guides at precise degrees around the blank, I cannot help you. Keep in mind though such a mounting technique is not only unneeded but may not produce the best line flow for different rods. Any guide train, spiral or conventional, benefits from static load testing for guide placement and should be performed with the blank both fully loa
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Danny, Welcome to this rod building site, the most important tool for any beginner or veteran alike. You received good advice from all the above and probably any that might follow as well. Your main question regarded conflicting opinions of gluing or not gluing a guide to the blank prior to thread wrapping and the positive and negative aspects of both. Welcome to rod building = neither are corr
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Kent, WOW!!! More than a wealth of information. Allow me to thank you for the entire RB.O membership.
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Russell, All very well said and I agree; touché. I doubt you are in the minority; quite the contrary.
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Brian, At the risk of sounding rude, basic common sense will reveal cutting anything off the butt end of the blank will effectively move the fulcrum point of the blank further up the blank (IE closer to the mid-point ferrule). Inversely, cutting the tip will effectively move the fulcrum point lower in the blank. My way of thinking has it at If you cut the same amount off the butt of the blank as
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Jason, You have received valuable and reliable information from veterans such as Herb, Michael, Lance and Roger; I agree with everything each has said. Allow me to interject my personal preference; STICK WITH FUJI. Rather than spending the big-bucks on Ti/Torsite guides, a very dependable option is their Corrosion Control SS frames with Alconite inserts. While Fuji’s Ti/Torsite guides may be the
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David, The structural composite industry has relied and utilized acetone for decades as a clean-up solvent for epoxies. I have used it for years and will continue to do so. At $15-20/gallon, it costs a fraction of what “specialized” solvents cost. It would not surprise me to learn most “brush cleaners” are predominately acetone. While any chemical needs to be treated with care, consider that re
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Gary, Do not over-think it! Assuming your wrapping environment is relatively clean, apply the second coat of epoxy 18- 36 hours after the initial. Apparently you already have a good procedure to allow for “de-nubbing” the initial coat prior to additional/final coats = very good; keep using it = that’s what I do. There is nothing to be gained from a solvent-wipe which can actually produce/introd
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