Tom, Converting mm to inches, the difference between a 9mm and 10mm tube is ~.040in. Wrapping the tip (the length of the tip top tube) with size A thread (~.010in) and a very thin coat of thread finish should put just about in the middle of the range. Otherwise, simply pack the tube with tip top adhesive and center it as best possible over the blank tip. Hope this helps.
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Ron, Good link to Falconer. It looks like they do a very nice job gathering / compressing the weave at the ends of their grips.
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Andrew, If you cannot find the exact premade handle wanted, build your own; they are not particularly difficult to make. As Tom mentioned, if it is not black, it is NOT CF!!! Soller Composites has a large selection of woven bi-axial sleeves in various materials; the colored ones are a hybrid of CF and colored FG. Note that the colored sleeves are ~ 2X the thickness of plain CF = more weight, if
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Mike, I have not wrapped a blank with ridges so I cannot really give you an experienced reply. However, I have had minor issues with wrapping guides which have feet with “fluted” or “barbed” edges (to resist pull-out); the thread has a tendency to slide away from the rest of the wrap on the “downhill” side of the bumps in the foot yet automatically packs nicely on the “uphill” side. This leaves
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Lynn brought-up a very good (= important) point. Most blades have a coating of some sort of oil on them to prevent corrosion between the time they were manufactured and when the end-user actually uses them. While I prefer acetone over Lynn’s alcohol, at the very least, wipe the oil off new blades, even if only a dry paper towel.
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Dennis, Sanding the thread nubs will create a mess in more ways than one. As Tom suggested, simply shave the nub off with a sharp (as in new) razor blade and you will be fine after the second coat is applied. You can probably shave off the nub(s) after the epoxy has cured for 12 hours but 24 is a safer bet. Herb’s method of tying-off the wrap is very similar to mine. Place / insert the pull-thr
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Kyle, Tom offered good advice regarding spinning reel seat size = custom-tailor the size of the seat to be comfortable FOR YOU. My decrepit old hands really benefit from a larger seat than what others may consider to be“the norm”. Roger also offers good advice = practice (and persistence) does make perfect. However, I enjoy looking at my first rod build and comparing it to what I have accompli
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Touche’ Lynn; I agree.
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After Jeffrey’s comment, I feel safe in saying, Bah, Humbug lol. Thanks, Roger!!! This could just top the charts in views and replies.
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Tom, Thanks for the reply. I suppose it would take a continual and concerted effort by many, many rod builders to coerce the manufacturers to offer a standardized numerical code to describe the characteristics of their rods / blanks. With the majority of their sales probably being more rods than blanks, it may prove to be a hard sell from our end. But we have already stepped on Mr. Ward’s topic
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Robert, You are correct = thanks for the correction. It should have been obvious who Tom was addressing. That being said, Tom did make a good observation and I am anxious for his reply to my question.
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Tom, Mr Danek does not have a problem nor is he griping about anything; others possibly but not Michael. He has simply (although tediously) and graciously developed a system / method to measure the frequency of a bare rod / blank which is very accurate and repeatable. You do, however, make a good point of preaching to the “choir” rather than the “congregation”. With your vast experience of the
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Christopher, When I was in the market for a power wrapper, I liked the Flax Coat unit the best mainly because of the rod supports mounted to the rear, vertical track rather than the base which allows the thread tray unobstructed movement along the entire length of the unit = a big plus! While I ended-up fabricating my own power wrapper, I employed a number of basic features from the Flex Coat un
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Jack, If Lynn is correct "No top coating of bare blank required" comes from Lamiglas via phone about a rebuild I did some time ago” and that means the original blank had no coating, you have a mess of a defective blank! I cannot imagine the actual resin used to manufacture the blank being soft = but something is not right here. Good luck and keep us informed of what you end-up doing an
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It does not really matter what Dr. Hannerman was attempting to accomplish with CCF, the individual frequency of each blank or just the correlation of frequencies between blanks. One way or the other, his intellect provided all of us with CCS and CCF which had not been accomplished prior. We all owe a great deal of gratitude to Dr. Hannerman. That graciously said, I believe he added the “stickTac
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Ron, With all due respect, I am extremely surprised with your reply “Has nothing to do with larger or wall thickness.” It should be obvious that a part which is larger, including wall thickness, will be heavier than a smaller part. In Terje’s circumstance, the only explanation why his solid NS seat is heavier than a plated NS seat is simply due to the size / mass of it, including wall thickness
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Jack, Spencer is right-on-the-money = PG is quite hot. But what do you have to lose? As stated, if coating the existing rod proves unsatisfactory, strip it; if satisfactory, you saved time and effort.
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Although the head-of-steam may be cooling, I appreciate the continued replies to build, small as it may be, a “thread base” from which others might benefit. Thanks to all contributing!!!
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Jack, Boy, you’ve got a difficult question to answer, foremost is the “soft, sticky” feel of the existing finish of the blank. The veterans may be better-suited to attempt to answer. While Lamiglas may have originally been old-school (1970s?), all of their products have remained in high esteem even recently, me being one but can’t afford them. I can only assume that someone, somewhere along the
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Terje, While different metals have different specific atomic weights, for our intents and purposes in rod building, most are similar enough to make detecting an overall weight difference very difficult, Al and Ti being the exceptions. If your solid nickel-silver (NS) seat is noticeably heavier than a plated one, it is simply larger or thicker-walled = find a smaller / thinner version. By the way
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Michael, If indeed you are looking for the same “action” as your title suggests, the easiest, most accurate and widely accepted method is to perform CCS to discover the AA. Although Roger’s “ceiling” method may be less sophisticated, it will afford a very good, quick visual reference; I have learned to like it very much. But consider Tom’s statement to make sure you are not confusing “action” w
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Michael, I think Lynn is referring to this link; it is kind of long but hopefully informative.
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Michael, We all know (probably experienced) how fragile the beginning tag or tie-off tag can be, even if only rarely. Sometimes those tucked-under tags just seem to go “boink” for no apparent reason. All of the above recommendations involve some sort of risk to the bare wraps, so whatever you do, do it very cautiously, gently, diligently!!! I must say that, yet again, Norman offered a POSSIBLY
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Senad, Listen to and apply the guide spacing suggestions from Norman and Michael; they are respected veterans, know what they are talking about and I have nothing to add. While I do not (think I) have carpal tunnel syndrome, I have abused my hands for many, many years and consequently my fingers ache constantly, even debilitatingly painful now-and-again. Adding to John’s and Michael’s comments
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Thanks, David.
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Josh, I am uncertain if I understand exactly what you are referring to. If you are talking about the opening of the forwardmost portion of the thread cover being too large and leaving a gap between it and the blank, you can install a “felt bushing”. It is fairly expandable / contractible to make a nice fit along the tapered blank to eliminate any rattling, won’t mare the blank and keeps debris o
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I am less concerned with using other builder’s opinions of the different qualities of the available thread brands for my personal benefit as I am to, hopefully, provide a “base” for others to view and assist them in their own selection. Each brand / type has its own pros and cons which depends on how it is viewed by each individual builder and the effect they prefer / are seeking. A viewable “bas
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Fred, GOOD LUCK!!!!!! I’ll be waiting for “news at 11:00”.
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While the use, or not, of CP will remain a debated topic, it really shouldn’t be = it is simply personal preference to obtain a certain effect. I rarely use it because I have more confidence filling my tunnels with epoxy rather than CP and it adds another step to the build process, but that’s just me. As Norman stated, regular thread without CP can produce a very nice translucent wrap, especially
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David & Michael, Are you guys using regular nylon thread with or without CP? I have not experienced any “blotchy” effects after applying thread finish. Basically, I only use colorfast, NCP thread because I do not care for CP, just my personal preference.
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