There are obviously, and rightfully so, preferences and bais to certain brands of thread as I stated in the original post. However, if this post can generate enough supportive replies containing which brand each builder likes / dislikes accompanied with a brief description as to why, it could very well afford a “base of information” for many newbies and veterans alike to view in hopes of discover
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Fred, You have a real DOOZY of a repair, actually a rebuild of the blank itself!!! The first thing to determine is if it is actually worth all the effort only to discover your attempts do not work in the end. Unless you are a glutton-for-punishment, have too much time on your hands or are compelled to tackle the seemingly impossible, consider passing on this one. It is bad enough there is such a
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Michael, Thank you for the reply. It is safe to say that most of the veteran wrappers praise the old Gudebrod thread even though the world almost stopped when its production stopped. The only negative I have heard is that it was notorious for knots in the middle of the spool. A good selection of colors (and that match the color chart) is a definite plus. As you, I have had some thread-twist i
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Recently, there have been a couple of topics on this forum concerning certain (blue) metallic thread fading over (a relatively short period of) time. Although I have a stock of different colored metallic thread, I rarely use them in favor of less flashy wraps / accents, but that is just my preference; there is a place and time for them. I started a topic concerning rod wrapping thread a few mont
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David, I built a 40lb Yellowtail rod using size 6 runners that easily passes a FG knot of 50lb braid to 20-40lb flouro. Now that I understand you will be building an identical rod rather than replacing the runners on the existing rod, this would be a perfect time and comparison to experience the difference the KR Concept WILL provide. Almost a year ago, I built a COF rod using an “identical” bla
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Robert, And I am certain it will be!!!
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David, Apparently you have built a cross between a Cone-Of-Flight (COF) and a New-Guide-Concept (NGC) rod. It should work adequately and so enjoy it. Next time-around, try the KR Concept for an even better performing rod; you just might be amazed! Have you given any consideration to employing a different knot before going through the pains of stripping and replacing the 8s with 10s? The 8s sho
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David, I can only afford you with my novice observations but will follow your thread to learn what the veterans have to offer. I cannot imagine increasing the size of the runner from 8s to 10s having any ill-effects; the minimal increase in weight should not slow the frequency of that blank enough to be noticeable. But before you go through the hassle of replacing the runners, try changing your
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VERY good point, Robert!!!!!
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Robert, Why can’t you just temporarily mount the guides with dental bands or tape in a nice, progressive spacing and then 2-line static load test for the precise locations? Oftentimes, if the progressive spacing LOOKS good, it will coincide pretty dang close with the static load test.
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Tony, Many hobby stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels sell rub-on lettering, but then there is the issue of keeping them straight. I have never tried them so cannot comment on how they react to thread finish = test first. I have also not attempted printing my own because I simply purchase my decals. You must have been looking in all the wrong places if you could not find affordable decals. For $
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Michael, The PVC with end caps is certainly a simple, effective method of storing / transporting rods. I used 4in plastic drain pipe which is considerably lighter and cheaper; same end caps as PVC. If there will be more than one rod in the tube, make sure to put all of them in separate rod socks to avoid guides nicking adjacent blanks from bouncing and vibration!!! I would question how w
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Mr. gleason, There are a multitude of boxes and containers out there and the Rubbermaid and Plano are fine examples and work well. I have found “cookie tins” (properly sized of course) to be my choice; while they may not be air-tight, they block-out UV which could fade the thread. And it is very possible you may be receiving a few during the up-comming Holiday season (as long as if you’ve been n
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David, The quality of cork, whether individual rings or pre-made grips, will continue to diminish unless willing to pay astronomical prices. Once you find a suitable vendor for either, stay with it! I recently tried a Baston half-wells and was quite pleased, however who knows what the next one might be. All I can say is trial-and-error, good luck and inform the rest of us if you find “the source
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Thanks for the re-reply, Billy. When I first started building rods and prior to joining this forum, I employed narrow masking tape bushings for my seats = simple, cheap, easy, almost infinitely adjustable and I have not experienced a failure. After learning of the foam bushings on this forum, I tried them and was very impressed = easy to bond into the seat, (can) afford full-length support and th
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Good point, Herb. I thought it was just me who does not like the fit of most foam arbors / bushings. I am quite surprised with Billy’s reply “A tiny percentage of builders use foam arbors…” If that is the case, what do the majority use, masking tape? Drywall tape? From reading this forum, it seems as though the majority use foam arbors / bushings. I have tried the three methods above and found d
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Jon, You have already stated you are replacing the thread wraps but are you replacing the guides as well or reusing the originals? Also, are you going to reinstall the guides (original or new) where the manufacturer decided to put them (with the same length wraps) or perform a 2-line static load test for guide placement so they are mounted at the optimum location for that particular blank? Is th
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Michael X 2, I read MR. Sutheimer’s post to be that he used the Minimas when “ Was after the least weight and most sensitive rod I could get”. But his new, planned build “... might see some harder use and sensitivity and finesse are never going to be a requirement for the rod.” But maybe I misinterpreted it. One way or the other, size 4 runners are common if not the norm, except for those of us
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Michael, It is fairly well known that I am a huge Fuji fan although I have used Minima M guides and, as you, liked them. I agree with you that their lighter weight comes at the sacrifice of robustness. Fuji KLHs with Alconite rings will be a very good choice. Mr. Danek offered very sound advice with all of his suggestions and I agree except for minor personal preferences. Although I utilize a K
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Ron, Pre test-fit the grip to the seat before bonding to the blank. While many may be satisfied with the fit, I found the grip required a little “massaging” to suit my liking; and I was using a Fuji brand cork grip. Of course, there is not much one can massage with a Winn Grip.
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David, I, too, am here to learn. To the seasoned veterans who have been-there-done-that, will a RV-6 or KW-10 spaced 19in-21in from the spool of a typical, modern low-frame casting reel produce a straight-line path for the line or will either cause a “line angle” as it passes? Obviously, it depends on the placement of the next guide forward of the butt guide, but I am concerned with “typical”, p
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Dennis. It is my understanding that Fuji dropped their polished and black K series frames and replaced them with CC (matte silver), BC (matte grey) available in either Alconite or Fazlite rings or GC (gun metal) with only SiC rings. You may be waiting a very long time for polished frames! Hopefully, Jim Ising of Anglers Resource or Norman Miller will reply to verify.
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Robert & Tom, I do not have that issue of RM = before I started subscribing. I am curious if those two articles came to the same conclusion as with my test, “chip-resistance” in particular? Tom, You stated a few months ago to be surprised to learn the cross-over between readers of this forum and RM magazine was so small (10%?). Now the other readers of RB.O have access to an article on Spr
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Ever since I started building rods about 6 years ago, I have experimented with a few different methods of “clearing” a raw blank. Recently though, the trend is to leave the blank uncoated, in it’s raw, possibly sanded condition. While that is fine-and-dandy from merely a weight perspective (infantesimal as it may be), epoxies, including those used in blank manufacturing, are typically sensitive t
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To some of Guy’s replyers, remember that most blanks are tapered; if the seat is a nice slip fit at the butt end, it may be (too) sloppy on the tip end and possibly requiring an arbor / bushing, albeit a very thin one. As stated, the slop at the tip end may be so minimal that eyeballing to center the seat to the blank may be sufficient. Guy, back to your original question; many veterans have re
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Dennis, Tom offered good advise, or is that God advise lol. I agree you do not need so many different size guides. I have built a number of 30lb conventional baitcasting, Yellowtail rods, employing the same Daiwa Lexa 400, using a size 12 butt guide followed by 6s out to the tip top (all but one spiral-wrapped) and they work very well. While large-ringed butt guides may be required for spinning
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Excuse me if I used an incorrect term regarding epoxy; I was referring to “gel” type epoxies rather than the stated “paste” epoxies; by the way, U40 Rod Bond is what I use. Richard, hopefully Tom answered your “chamfer” question for me; if not, let me know and I will attempt to clarify better.
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Guy, I will be following your post to learn what the veterans have to say; I am here to learn. Until then, my novice opinion is that, given the small gap, it might even be better to bond the seat directly to the blank if the following are performed; 1. Heavily scuff the blank and the ID of the seat, 2. Put a good chamfer on the ID of the butt end of the seat to promote the paste epoxy being forc
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Rick, If you feel ANYTHING AT ALL, there is obviously residue, contamination, left. This is one of those “drastic times deserve drastic measures” situations. Follow my predescribed “dragging a acetone moistened rag” method and you will be good to go. If you are hesitant or have questions, feel free to email me directly and I will give you my phone number so I can help you step-by-step.
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I am following this topic to also learn because I have only built 1 fly rod (up-locking). For my light spin rods, I have become very fond of down-locking seats, especially with hidden thread “fore-grips”. Other than the “personal preference” replies, Phil brought-up a good point of a down-locking seat positioning the reel where it could pick-up dirt / sand when standed on the butt. Looking for mo
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